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Old 01-12-2012, 10:14 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 458
Sorry for th lack of information. i changed the fluid about two weeks ago. I had over filled the transmission and had to drain some of it out today. I did this before driving. That is why it was about half a quart low. Proir to changing the fluid and filter, I had a rather serious leak from the old pan gasket. NO LEAKS NOW.....

When you mentioned flaring, prolong shift transitions, and engine reving between shifts. The shifts were fairly smooth. Engine did rev a couple of time between 3rd and 4th. But only after resisting shift from 3rd to 4th at times. The problem with the transmission slipping was only common when there was a serous leak and before the fluid, filter, and gasket were changed. The only other time the tree seems to be any slippage, was when I by passed the vacuum accumalator. (this was based on your instructions to by pass). What I am calling slippage, could have been high revving between shifting after the bypass was done.

The cable you mentioned between the throttle and the transmission is the cable I disconected on my thrid test drive tonight. That is when the trans would not shift out of 2nd (maybe 3rd). I did notice that the cable did have a reasonable amount of play in it before the sheath. I did not push the extra cable into the steath. I will try that tomorrow in the daylight.

When shifting from neutral, the transmission engages first gear immediately. And the engagemnet is strong and solid. The same result happen when placing the transmission in reverse.

I do appreciate all of your assistance and advice.

Last edited by ron59b; 01-13-2012 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:50 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 458
Reply from Berryrice by PM:
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 32
Re: Berry rice I sent this message to sixto but would like to have your input too....
Hey Ron,

Sorry for the delay...for some reason the inbox didn't show I had messages until today. I noticed with my w124 95 e320's really sensitive to the Transmission oil brand, age and level. The first time I changed the fluid,gasket, and filter about 3 years ago, I used the FEBI spec'd fluid and put some lucas tranny I though it would help my reverse issue. Right away the cold morning "slipping" was a lot better...especially in the cold temps (sub25-30 deg). I replaced my reverse B3 friction bands now about 2 months ago using Valvoline Dex III from walmart, its ALL good now. But the fluid level does have to be right on the nuts...I checked mine cold and hot to make sure. The Bowden Cable does stretch over time and I do suggest if you mess with it...go a 1/4 turn at a time. Mine was a little off and took one 1/4 turn. Not sure it I answered your questions or not.
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Old 01-18-2012, 11:07 AM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 458
Had the transmission checked out by a mechanic that helps me out. He said that I had not drained the torque converter. He had me to pour in some BG Trans Flush (Quick Kleen) and run the car for 30 minutes. Then he came over and dumped the trans fluid and the torque converter. He stated that there was a considerable amount of junk coming out of the torque converter. There were also a couple of vacuum lines that ran from the transmission to the engine compartment that were not connected under the hood.

After he connected the vacuum lines, my transmission is now performing properly. The CCU is also performing properly too. it is my understanding that the vacuum lines help to control the modulator on the transmission. Thanks to everyone for your assistance with this matter. What a great forum.

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Old 01-25-2012, 11:38 AM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 458
I finally drove my car after the transmission filter and flush... After driving about 10 miles some of the original symptoms re-occurred. The transmission had NO slipping, and before refusing to shift out of 3rd gear, it would stay in 3rd a little longer than normal and then shift with some flaring.

Once it started not shifting into the higher gear, I did notice the return of other symptoms.

1. The CCU would only work when the key was turned to the accessory position and not once the car actually started.

2. The battery is back to being drained when the car has been sitting for a few days.

The above items were problems before my mechanic worked on the car, and he explained that there were a couple of vacuum lines the ran from the transmission to the engine area that were not connected. Before connecting these lines, the drain on the battery was around 80 milliamps. After connecting the lines, the drain was withing normal limits. He had also explained that before connecting the lines, there had not been any vacuum on the modulator. (I think this is correct).

Because of all the items mentioned above, I was thinking that what ever the disconnected lines caused had returned. When my mechanic worked on the trans last week, he connected the lines and drove the care for a few hours around town and it performed properly.

It doesn't make sense to me that if he was able to drive around for some time with the trans performing correctly, that the problem would re-occur without something having disconnected again. If I can remember correctly, the part that the vacuum lines connected to is the vacuum actuator (flying saucer thing on the firewall).

I am open to any advice you guys have to offer...

Thanks for taking the time to read all of my ramblings..

Last edited by ron59b; 01-25-2012 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 01-27-2012, 05:14 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 20,544
It's a very far stretch from the transmission vacuum control system to the battery drain. The only electrical component in the transmission vacuum control system is the 50*C VSV. It gets a signal from the temp switch by the thermostat to cut the boost signal to the BFS until the coolant gets to 50*C. Beyond that the system is mechanical.

Approaching it from the other direction, the key operates a vacuum switch for engine shut-off. The vacuum source is the brake booster line, not the small fitting on the vacuum pump. I suppose a flaky vacuum switch can mess with the vacuum available to the transmission. I'd expect that much of a vacuum loss would affect braking performance.

From the ACC symptom alone it sounds like you need a new key switch. That might address the battery drain issue as well. Otherwise, pull fuses to find the culprit circuit.

There's a 603 vacuum diagram in the vacuum diagram sticky. Make sure your BFS is hooked up as described. For kicks, disconnect the 50*C temp switch and see if shifting improves.

87 300D
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