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  #1  
Old 08-22-2010, 02:45 PM
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Location: Cornelius{PDX}, OR
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Arrow '86 SDL noob revisited...

I posted back in November and so here is a recap...

1986 Mercedes 300 SDL 350k miles

I have allot of receipts of work being done and just some of them include;

6/10/7 Fuel hose return line, in-tank hose, filter, screen
3/27/7 11" fuel level sender, 3 pos switch VJD1
2/11/7 6 injectors (NA 36x) OE Reman 6 heat shields (601-017-00-60)
312324 Oil PSI tube on turbo
310598 Head replaced
305253 Fuel shut off servo, 'mono' valve, Fan Clutch
302344 A/C condenser R-134a changeover, switch, relay, Cruise Control Amp, align"major service"

291494 trans overhaul/update, drive line disc @ trans, vacuum valve on injection pump
3/19/3 alternator
274840 Vacuum pump
268947 radiator, oil level sending unit


My friend wanted a 'diesel' engine to put into his 1950 Ford F2. He found this car with a bad transmission and figured it might be a good donor.

After fiddling around and doing some research, we discovered that it was probably just the kick down switch keeping it in first gear. Apparently it was, because the trans seems to work fine now after mashing the throttle several times (engine off).

I drove the car, and really liked it. (actually it is the finest car I have ever driven) I thought it would be a shame to part such a nice car just for the engine, and so I traded him an '89 F350 that I was just going to part out anyway.




So, that was back in November. I drove it about a hundred miles without incident. I came home and parked it, and the next day when I went to drive it, it was stuck in first gear again. I have since discovered it is really second. I didn't have the money to get the car licensed and insured, without taking my awd van off the insurance, so I chose to just leave it until summer when I would have more time, hopefully some money, and less need for an awd van.


Time goes by, summer arrives but I have been busy so the merc still sits in the driveway. I came to the conclusion I wasn't going to get around to working on it, and so I decided to sell it. Well, in talking to a potential buyer about the trans problem, I recommended the peach parts forum had allot of info.

Well, now with playing with it again, and reading forums and email lists, I long for the car and wish it was working and I could just keep it for myself! This has happened to me before and I feel sure some of you can relate.

After spending all night googling SDL won't shift, I don't really have any other ideas than disconnecting the kick down switch. I did that and it still won't upshift. So I thought I would ask for some help on what to check. I find it impossible to believe that the transmission is "blown" as the fluid is clean and it was replaced like 50k ago. Also, the fact that it was not working, working flawlessly, and then just suddenly doesn't work again after it was parked. No slips or delays or awkward shift or anything...




Anyway, that is my story, and here are some pictures. Nothing exciting, probably just looks like another old SDL but here they are;

http://picasaweb.google.com/deanstud/Merc#

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'86 300 SDL '83 300D Astral Silver/Blue
354k miles.. 326k miles..

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  #2  
Old 08-22-2010, 03:01 PM
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There's a cable that comes up from the passenger side of the transmission to the throttle linkage just ahead of the oil filter housing. Disconnect the ball and socket end of the cable from the throttle linkage and go for a drive. It should get to top gear fairly quickly. If so, your low gear woes stem from a misadjusted or more likely binding bowden cable.

Your power steering fluid is low. At operating temperature, the fluid level should be at the bottom of those pointy things in the yellow plastic stem, about 8mm higher than it is in the picture. It should also be yellowish hydraulic fluid rather than red like ATF but that's open for debate.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 08-22-2010, 06:13 PM
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Arrow

Thanks on the fluid, I had taken that pic and asked in another thread but never had a reply. Old pic, so I have/had added some trans fluid to it (since it was red) up to about half way between the peaks of the triangles... too much?

On the trans issue I think you nailed it. I removed the ball connector and tucked it out of the way and the trans shifted again. I pulled over and gave the cable a few tugs, put it back on and it works OK now. So, that needs replaced, or maybe it is just sticky from sitting?

I was giddy like a school girl when that fixed it! I only went around the (couple) blocks since it isn't insured. Odly I pulled into the mechanic shop 2 blocks from home because I saw an S class for sale. It had no badges but the sign said it was a '90 and regular wheelbase, so I guess that makes it a gasser. Anyway not for me, so I let off the break and as I go to hit the throttle she dies. Wouldn't restart for like 20 minutes. I wad no tools or anything, I was in sweats and flip flops completely un prepared. I looked and the filter had fuel in it, as did the clear return line. Basically I sat there for awhile thinking about wth was going on. Eventually it did catch with my foot at WOT but it never really got going and died. I didn't want to tax the battery too hard and I am not one who likes to crank the starter until everything melts, so I waited. I thought it through and told myself it was hopeless and that I would have to go get some tools and things but gave it one more try. Cranked for a few and ran ok for the few blocks home.

The only thing I could think that was different was that I was sitting at a nose down incline while I was looking at the other car. So I parked it backwards in the driveway so it would have a similar incline. I let it run and rev and such for about a half hour but it didn't die again.

Maybe the car didn't like me looking at another prettier one.
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'86 300 SDL '83 300D Astral Silver/Blue
354k miles.. 326k miles..

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Old 08-22-2010, 08:49 PM
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Arrow

Changed the filters just 'cuz I had 'em, went on another jaunt around the 'hood, and it was back to not shifting with it connected.
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  #5  
Old 08-23-2010, 12:58 AM
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You can try sending ATF into the cable sheath to unstick it but it's usually time for a new cable when it starts to stick.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #6  
Old 08-23-2010, 06:01 PM
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Is it "OK" to drive (damage wise) with this disconnected until I can get one?
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  #7  
Old 08-23-2010, 09:11 PM
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It won't damage your car but it might be unsafe if you have to get out of your own way. You can downshift using the shift lever if the transmission doesn't respond to the pedal. It should downshift on its own as you slow down.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #8  
Old 08-24-2010, 11:58 PM
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Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by -=DeanstuD=- View Post
Changed the filters just 'cuz I had 'em, went on another jaunt around the 'hood, and it was back to not shifting with it connected.

So... I RE disconnected it, and now it WILL shift but OMG you have to be like 5k rpm.

Is there some way to remove it, or do I just tug on it at random hoping it will let go? I have searched for "bowden cable" but I get all sorts of things from bicycle cables to motorcycle throttles...

On a side note, trying to drive it like that exposed my improper secondary fuel filter replacement. I have a new one with all the proper rubber seals (old 'new' one i did the other day had none) Sometimes during the WOT and heavy cornering it would die off like it was starving for fuel. Now that I know about the seals, I am sure that it must have been gulping air. I removed the 'old/new' filter and it was only about half full of fuel when it died. So, tomorrow I will play more.

A second side note, kinda like a P.S.S. I stopped working on the car today as it was getting dark. I notice the little floor lights on the back doors are on but the switch is off...
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'86 300 SDL '83 300D Astral Silver/Blue
354k miles.. 326k miles..

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...ine=1310252049

Last edited by -=DeanstuD=-; 08-25-2010 at 12:26 AM.
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  #9  
Old 08-25-2010, 12:55 AM
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The 5k shift point is your kick down solenoid. Either your kickdown switch under the accelerator pedal is stuck or the solenoid in the tranny is stuck.

Unplug the switch under the pedal first and see if the symptom goes away.

If that does not work, try (while driving) engaging the kickdown switch a few time and see if energizing the solenoid will unstick it.
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'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
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Old 08-25-2010, 01:53 AM
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Arrow

I disconnected the kick down switch under the pedal on Saturday morning before I made the first post in this thread. It is still disconnected, as I never re convected it.

So, does what you said still apply? I will hook it back up tomorrow assuming i get it started again after I put the fuel system back together.
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354k miles.. 326k miles..

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  #11  
Old 08-26-2010, 08:23 PM
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So FYI. I went to reconnect the kickdown switch, and I had pulled the wires out of the connector, rather than pulled the connector apart. SO, the wires were touching, making it think it was floored.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2012, 11:15 AM
Ron59b
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 485
1986 Mercedes 300 SDL Transmission will not up shift....

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
There's a cable that comes up from the passenger side of the transmission to the throttle linkage just ahead of the oil filter housing. Disconnect the ball and socket end of the cable from the throttle linkage and go for a drive. It should get to top gear fairly quickly. If so, your low gear woes stem from a misadjusted or more likely binding bowden cable.

Your power steering fluid is low. At operating temperature, the fluid level should be at the bottom of those pointy things in the yellow plastic stem, about 8mm higher than it is in the picture. It should also be yellowish hydraulic fluid rather than red like ATF but that's open for debate.

Sixto
87 300D

I just recently purchased a 1986 300 SDL with 280,000 miles on it. This is a one owner car and had the transmission replaced 7 years ago.*

I was told that there had been some issues with the transmission that included a leak. When the owner had the car at the shop, they were told that the transmission wad functioning properly.*

When driving the car home, once the car warmed up it started to not up shift at times. It also began to slip when taking off from a dead stop. On the trip home I poured in a few quarts of fluid and limped it home.

Since having the car here, I discovered that the transmission had a at the pan gasket. This I repaired and added BG Trans Fluid additive.*

The trans is still having trouble upshifting once it warms up. The problem Isn't constant. I can let off the gas and stop. Then upon taking off again, it sometimes will shift properly for a while.*

After searching the forum, I came across your response about the Bowden cable possibly sticking. I am planning to try what you suggested within the next couple of days.*

I have also seen post about checking the kick down switch, and the transmission module. Is there anything else you would recommend to me that could be related to my issue? The transmission shifts storng and otherwise seems to perform very well.*

I apologize for the long email, but I have reviewed several of your responses over the years and think you may be able help me.

Thanking for your time,*

Ron*
Richmond, VA
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Old 01-10-2012, 01:46 AM
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What's the condition of the transmission fluid? With 280K miles on the clock a more appropriate question might be how dirty is it? How does it smell compared to fresh fluid?

Check the fluid level. Go for a 20 mile drive, pull over on level ground, I run the lever through the gears stopping a few seconds in each position but I don't know that this is necessary, pull the dipstick and wipe the last few inches with a clean lint free cloth, insert the dipstick and pull again to check the fluid level. It should be between the min and max marks. Adjust as necessary. It's only a cup or two between min and max.

For kicks, bypass the transmission vacuum amplifier; the blue flying saucer (BFS) by the glow relay. Find the black vacuum line from the transmission amplifier to the transmission; it'll have a green cylinder just after the amplifier. Find also the output of the vacuum control valve (VCV) on the injection pump. Guess what? It'll also have a green cylinder just after the VCV. Connect the transmission line directly to the line out of the VCV. Keep only one green cylinder and don't change the direction of flow through the cylinder. See if that changes shifting behavior.

Slipping under any condition isn't good. Slipping with fluid at the proper level is very not good. Try what I suggest and report back.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #14  
Old 01-12-2012, 06:13 PM
Ron59b
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 485
Sixto,

Here is my feedback:

Note **** One thing I just remembered, I forgot to remove the 2nd green disc item. I instead just used a piece of tubing to connect it where i removed the other line. ( connected at the Y connector)

I did make the adjustments you recommended to e vacuum lines and I had previously changed the transmission fluid and filter.

Fluid - the old fluid had an OLD smell and not a burnt smell.*

I took the car for a drive and noticed that it almost immediately had a problem * shifting into 3rd gear. Once I let off the accelerator, it then did shift into 3rd gear. Where I was driving was stop an go traffic. The car would continue ot shift fine some of the time, while the rest of the time it would not shift into 3rd gear. Also a few times the transmission appeared to slip. It also would kick into overdrive with the slightest pressure being put on the accelerator.*

I continued my drive and stopped at Walmart*and checked the fluid. I added about a 1/2 of a quart of fluid and returned home. The entire trip home the transmission performed much like before.*

Once I arrived home, I switched the vacuum line back to their original connection. I then disconnected the Bowden cable and took the car for a shorter drive. This time the car would not shift out of either 1st. Or 2nd. And continued to perform tis way the entire time.*

Not sure if this will make sense to you. I am not sure how to proceed now.*

Ron*
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Last edited by ron59b; 01-12-2012 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:33 PM
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You just changed the transmission fluid and you're already down half a quart? That sounds like a major leak. I'd stop worrying about shifting for now and fix the leak.

Bypassing the BFS didn't change anything and you're not complaining of harsh shifts, prolonged shift transitions or flaring (engine revs between shifts) so I'll assume the transmission vacuum signal is fine or at least not the major problem.

The transmission doesn't have an overdrive gear so I'll assume you mean fourth gear.

There is a pressure control cable between the engine throttle linkage and transmission. This cable is how the engine tells the transmission about throttle position as a surrogate for a load signal. More load = more throttle, less load = less throttle. The cable can stick causing an unsuitable signal to the transmission for the condition resulting in unexpected shifting or unexpected gear selection. If the sticking is intermittent, unexpected shifting behavior will be intermittent. Follow the cable from the passenger side of the transmission to the throttle linkage ahead of the oil filter. Release the ball and socket connection and check that the cable moves freely and smoothly in its sheath. The cable end has a threaded asdjuster. The basic setting is no slack or tension in the cable with the throttle at idle position.

You might try driving with the pressure control cable disconnected. After disconnecting, push the loose end as far into the sheath as it will do. The transmission will shift through the gears quickly regardless of throttle input. You can engage lower gears using the shift lever if you have to but it's safer to stay away from traffic. It might tell you something if the transmission still hangs in third gear.

The slipping worries me since it has nothing to do with external controls and signals. It might be a problem with externally accessible pistons or worn clutches. How long does it take to engage first gear and reverse when you shift from neutral?

Sixto
87 300D

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