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  #61  
Old 02-13-2013, 01:57 PM
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FS: Keyless remote

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

2 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #62  
Old 07-19-2013, 08:59 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Lathrup Village, Michigan
Posts: 2,939
I couldn't get the $15 unit to work without switching the NO connections (lock must be to GND, unlock must be to VPWR) and cutting (removing) the pneumatic wire loop.

Now my '89 w201 locks and unlocks with the fob.
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Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
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  #63  
Old 10-05-2013, 07:30 PM
jia300d's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 58
Hi everyone, I've been following this thread with the hope to get my keyless working but I still could not get a clear answer of why following the instructions given here my keyless although powered does not operate the pump. It clicks twice when I lock, onece when I unlock with blue LED following the clicks but nothing happen. I noticed that many people experiencing this either quit or had a professional do the installation. For me, I started it and will finish it.... but for that I will need your advice as to what I am doing wrong. Here are the details:

W124 92 300D (my W126 87 300SDL is next)
I uploaded a schematics with the connections I am making.
Removed jumper to allow for pneumatic opening.
I draw power and from a Red & White wire coming to the pump and ground the circuit with the Brown wire in the same bundle.

Red (with fuse) and Yellow/Black ---> +12 V
White ---> Green on pump side
Orange/Black ---> Green on door lock side
Orange ---> White/Black

I tried connecting the Module to each one of the Two green wires out from the pump to the doors, separately both times with same results: Module clicks but does not operate the pump.

What is wrong? please help.
Attached Thumbnails
DIY Keyless Entry Door Lock - W126 and W124-keyless-schematics.jpg  
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  #64  
Old 10-15-2013, 03:44 PM
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Curious if there is a way to make the windows roll up as well?
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  #65  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:39 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NC
Posts: 1
Hey guys, just wanted to give a huge thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, especially treiberg, urtruelove78, compu_85, and jay_bob. You all helped me immensely to actually give this thing a shot.

My drivers side door lock on my '86 190D crapped out about month ago and so I bought one of these $15 chinese ebay specials (identical to all these wiring diagrams). All I wanted was basic lock/unlock functions so I don't put more wear on the remaining passenger/trunk lock cylinders. And for the convenience of course.

Got it all wired up thanks to the great info in this thread. urtruelove78's clarified diagram really helped me out.

Got it working, but the keyfob lock/un-lock keys are reversed and do the opposite of what they should. Pressing lock un-locks the car, pressing un-lock locks the car. I'm a novice at all of this, but I feel like a fool for not being able to figure it out.

I have the following wired up with posi-tap and posi-lock connectors:

Module Red, and Yellow >Posi-tap> Car Red (12V)
Module Black, and yellow/black >Posi-tap> Car Brown (ground)
Module white vac pump side blue (blue wire was cut)
Module orange/black lock side blue
Module white/black module orange


I have cut the pneumatic "jumper" wire to enable the longer pulse so it works with the vac pump system.

I couldn't exactly glean what to do with the white/black and orange module wires, but tied together the module at least works. I tried tinkering with lots of possible combinations with the orange, org/blk, wht, and wht/blk wires but nothing seems to help.

Any ideas?
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  #66  
Old 11-12-2013, 12:50 PM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 1,539
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
You can do this faster and cheaper on a w124. I bought a 2-channel momentary output remote pair and installed the receiver in my trunk. Tapped into the three wires going to the trunk latch, to get + and - for the receiver power, and one line controls lock and unlock. Grounding the wire (via output relay) locks, and providing a +12 to the wire (via the other output relay) unlocks. (I may have confused which is which.. but you get the idea).

Key still works everywhere as it should.

Don't care about the alarm since I've disconnected that, but I imagine this mod would work just fine. It emulates un/locking the whole vehicle from the trunk using a key. So if this key action would normally un/arm the factory alarm, then this model probably does the same using remote.

I haven't used a key in the door tumbler since...

The remote even has a lock / unlock symbols and is keychain style, and get this.. has metal and a slider cover... it's meant for vehicle application you can tell.

ebay... $10 GO CHINA!

working strong 2 years later
If your remote "stops working" (you press buttons and hear clicks but nothing happens) it has to do with the anti-theft system falling into an unsure state thinking someone is trying to break in. Don't worry, you can reset this using key.

If you ever have a battery event (goes flat, take a boost, etc) whereby the computer loses power. You will have to remember to do the key in door locking thing first, before the remote will "start working" again. Actually the remote is working all the time, the car is just ignoring the inputs on the Yellow wire until it "learns" that the car is not being stolen (a key has been used in the door).
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Scott McPhee

1987 300D
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  #67  
Old 11-12-2013, 12:53 PM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 1,539
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
You can do this faster and cheaper on a w124. I bought a 2-channel momentary output remote pair and installed the receiver in my trunk. Tapped into the three wires going to the trunk latch, to get + and - for the receiver power, and one line controls lock and unlock. Grounding the wire (via output relay) locks, and providing a +12 to the wire (via the other output relay) unlocks. (I may have confused which is which.. but you get the idea).

Key still works everywhere as it should.

Don't care about the alarm since I've disconnected that, but I imagine this mod would work just fine. It emulates un/locking the whole vehicle from the trunk using a key. So if this key action would normally un/arm the factory alarm, then this model probably does the same using remote.

I haven't used a key in the door tumbler since...

The remote even has a lock / unlock symbols and is keychain style, and get this.. has metal and a slider cover... it's meant for vehicle application you can tell.

ebay... $10 GO CHINA!

working strong 2 years later
More on this method...

Here are the wires to go after in the car trunk near the latch (1987 300D)

Red/White or maybe just Red is HOT +12 all the time, from battery.
Brown/Blk or maybe just Brown is GROUND all the time.
Yellow is the input to the computer.
Supply a +12 pulse on yellow (taken from the red wire is fine) for UNLOCK all doors.
Supply a GROUND pulse on yellow (taken from Brown wire is fine) for LOCK all doors.

I discovered something freshly after playing with these wires when doing the install. The car computer may ignore inputs on Yellow after the installation, hence the remote will appear to be not working. Stays this way until some event happened that caused the computer to reset. I think using the door lock with key to do a lock/unlock cycle, or starting the car, or something... forget exactly what, but it was simple and caused the car computer to begin paying attention to the remote signals again.
After doing that, supplying the pulses on the Yellow wire again at the trunk are revived.

I'd suggest trying to supply brief pulses on the Yellow wire MANUALLY by touching it for half second to the mentioned supply +12 or GROUND. When that's working, wire up your remote receiver relay to give these pulses when using the remote button.

When you release the button make sure the remote receiver is releasing the relay so the pulse comes off the Yellow wire so it is allowed to hang "free" again. Some remote receivers have a "latching" feature, don't pick that, use the "momemtary" feature... in other words the relay only holds for as long as you are holding the remote button.

The EMT diagram shows the Yellow input "resting" on +12 (Unlock). That's just a convention for diagramming, don't actually do that. Let Yellow hang free when neither remote button is being pressed, offering no signal to the computer. In order for you do this, you need a 2-channel remote, with 2 relays. If you try to use a 1-channel remote with 1 relay and just take off from its N.O. and N.C. contacts you won't be successful. (That was my first try).
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Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Last edited by scottmcphee; 11-12-2013 at 03:06 PM.
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  #68  
Old 11-12-2013, 12:55 PM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 1,539
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
More on this method...

Here are the wires to go after in the car trunk near the latch (1987 300D)

Red/White or maybe just Red is HOT +12 all the time, from battery.
Brown/Blk or maybe just Brown is GROUND all the time.
Yellow is the input to the computer.
Supply a +12 pulse on yellow (taken from the red wire is fine) for UNLOCK all doors.
Supply a GROUND pulse on yellow (taken from Brown wire is fine) for LOCK all doors.


Try supplying the brief pulses on the Yellow wire MANUALLY by touching it for half second to the mentioned supply +12 or GROUND. When that's working, wire up your remote receiver relay to give these pulses when using the remote button.

When you release the button make sure the remote receiver is releasing the relay so the pulse comes off the Yellow wire so it is allowed to hang "free" again. Some remote receivers have a "latching" feature, don't pick that, use the "momemtary" feature... in other words the relay only holds for as long as you are holding the remote button.

The EMT diagram shows the Yellow input "resting" on +12 (Unlock). That's just a convention for diagramming, don't actually do that. Let Yellow hang free when neither remote button is being pressed, offering no signal to the computer. In order for you do this, you need a 2-channel remote, with 2 relays. If you try to use a 1-channel remote with 1 relay and just take off from its N.O. and N.C. contacts you won't be successful. (That was my first try).
Your 12volt remote 2-channel receiver will get power from the Red and Brown wires mentioned above.

The best (fail safe and break-before-make) way to wire a 2-channel 2-relay remote receiver to the car Yellow wire is as follows:

Suppose channel 1 relay 1 is for "Lock", and channel 2 is for "unlock" connect as follows:

Relay 1 Normally Closed terminal - not connected to anything
Relay 1 Normally Open terminal - connected to GROUND
Relay 1 Wiper arm terminal - connected to Relay 2 Normally Closed terminal

Relay 2 Normally Closed terminal - connected to Relay 1 Wiper arm
Relay 2 Normally Open terminal - connected to +12
Relay 2 Wiper arm terminal - connected to car Yellow wire (input to computer)

If you draw this out, you'll see what's going on.

When you wire it this way:
  • it is impossible to create a short circuit by pressing both remote buttons at the same time, or if one relay is stuck on (welded contacts on closure) pressing the other button does not create a short
  • if you press both buttons at the same time, the effect will be same as pressing just the UNLOCK button (fail safe = open state)
  • any random malfunction of the receiver unit causing it to activate any combination or sequence of relay pulls, is safe.
  • Yellow wire can only possibly receive one kind of signal at a time, and rests in neutral (no signal).
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Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Last edited by scottmcphee; 11-12-2013 at 03:09 PM.
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  #69  
Old 11-12-2013, 01:03 PM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 1,539
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
You can do this faster and cheaper on a w124. I bought a 2-channel momentary output remote pair and installed the receiver in my trunk. Tapped into the three wires going to the trunk latch, to get + and - for the receiver power, and one line controls lock and unlock. Grounding the wire (via output relay) locks, and providing a +12 to the wire (via the other output relay) unlocks. (I may have confused which is which.. but you get the idea).

Key still works everywhere as it should.

Don't care about the alarm since I've disconnected that, but I imagine this mod would work just fine. It emulates un/locking the whole vehicle from the trunk using a key. So if this key action would normally un/arm the factory alarm, then this model probably does the same using remote.

I haven't used a key in the door tumbler since...

The remote even has a lock / unlock symbols and is keychain style, and get this.. has metal and a slider cover... it's meant for vehicle application you can tell.

ebay... $10 GO CHINA!

working strong 2 years later
Here's an example of a remote system to get for this job:

2 Channel RF Wireless Transmitter Remote Control 315MHz | eBay

And it's now down to $6.50 !! Can life get any better?


If the batteries in the remote fade, cheaper to get a WHOLE system with new remotes than buy replacement batteries.

Mine like this is still going strong.. how many years now?? Four!? Haven't had to replace the batteries yet, and I'm sure these are the cheap china no-name brand battery in there. Oh I see this particular one does not include battery.

I have one very close to this remote depicted (attachment). Nice remote with metal, and a sliding cover over two buttons with symbols that show lock and unlock. The remote is "thumb size" so you can see the receiver part is very small as well. I tucked the receiver up on the ledge of the right tail light assembly, because radio waves need to reach it, and easily penetrate the plastic shell and lens of the tail light assembly.


Problem with ebay links is they die fast, here's the text that came with the link I'm showing above, all Chinglish and everything, always amusing:


2 Channel RF Wireless Transmitter Remote Control 315MHz


Features:
This remote control switch can be used to control lights, electrically operated doors, windows, curtains, etc.

Technical parameters:
Working voltage: DC12V
Working frequency: 315 MHz
Maximum load: 10 A
Rx sensitivity:-100 dB
Encoding Type: Fixed code
Working way: a dynamic and interlock, since the lock (with IC a)
Output way: two groups of switch signals, 12 v voltage

Description:
1.with IC seats,can according change work way to L4/M4/T4, output way can be adjusted, can take voltage output with direct control motor and reversing, also can output two road independent switch signals, data bits can be adjusted.
2. Wireless remote control switch is a widely used wireless control device, the microprocessor intelligent control, it can be used in the garage door control, lighting control, remote control curtain and other fields, and has convenient installation is simple to use safe and reliable.

Note:Now this item not include battery, Post mail not allow ship include battery,buyer need have a 27A 12V battery.

Package Including:
1 x 2 Channel RF Wireless Transmitter Remote Control 315MHz
Keywords:Remote Control,RF Remote control,Transmitter Remote Control
Attached Thumbnails
DIY Keyless Entry Door Lock - W126 and W124-remote.jpg  
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Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Last edited by scottmcphee; 11-12-2013 at 02:56 PM.
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  #70  
Old 11-12-2013, 03:00 PM
scottmcphee's Avatar
1987 w124 300D
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 1,539
One of the things I like using the trunk latch remote entry is that it is silent. No horn honking, lights flashing, all you can hear is the vacuum solenoids which are pretty quiet.

I don't like the attention getters of modern cars remote entry systems, those are dead giveaways for key fob robbing scoundrels to quickly find your car in a parking lot to help break in or make off with it.
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Scott McPhee

1987 300D
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  #71  
Old 11-29-2013, 01:41 AM
Mercedes Benz driver
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 6
Hi every1,

I installed one of these in my 87 SDL last week, but i can`t get it to work...

It all seems to be wired correctly, and i even hear the pump pushing air when i press the remote buttons, but nothing happens, the doors won`t lock or unlock, neither is the fuel door.

What did i do wrong, or, what is messed up, please ?
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  #72  
Old 11-29-2013, 10:02 AM
compu_85's Avatar
Waiting for his Model 3..
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Springfield VA
Posts: 5,174
Do the central locks work when you use the key?

Does your car have orthopedic seats?

-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000).

2013 Fiat 500E. 20,000 miles, 80 miles at a time.
2012 Passat TDI. 95,000 miles. More space, power, and fuel economy than the Benz
2004 Touareg V10 TDI. 150,000 miles. One of 450.
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  #73  
Old 11-29-2013, 08:29 PM
Mercedes Benz driver
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 6
Thumbs up

Yes Sir, the key locks and unlocks the car, from the trunk or passenger door (driver door lock does not work, thats how i bought the car)

And, no, i don`t have ortho seats
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  #74  
Old 05-10-2016, 05:19 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 59
I followed the directions exactly as trieberg posted in the wiring diagram, but only get clicks from the module (as several other posters were getting). The car is a 1987 MB 560SEC. The locks work perfectly with the key. Frustrsted after several hours. Any help appreciated. Please send a cc to my personsal email at benzjag@hotmail.com.
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  #75  
Old 05-10-2016, 06:21 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,916
It is water under the bridge now. You could have a working Keyless for $50 and 30 minutes install time, plus technical support. Just read the testimony from happy customers. I have one for sale if you are interested.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped-8.html
__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

2 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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