After frustration yesterday, I have my remotes working perfectly on my 87 560SEC & 89 560SL.

The reason was the wiring schematic was not clear. The following revised wiring WILL make the remote work perfectly. Odd because I paid only $12.00 each with free shipping.

Wiring:

Orange - join to white/black wire

White - connect to pump side of cut wire. I cut the green wire at the vacuum pump in the trunk.

Yellow - connect to positive current. I used the red wire that plugs into the pump.

Orange/black - connect to door side of cut wire.

White/black - joined already to orange wire above.

Yellow/black - connect to negative. I used the brown wire (beside red wire) that plugs into the pump.

Red - connect to the red wire that plugs into pump ( as you did with the yellow wire above)

Black - connect to brown wire at plug on pump (as you did with the yellow/black above).

Lastly, it is EXTREMELY important to pull out the black tab on the back of the module so there will be the delay required for the Mercedes pump.

I did as another poster did & put the blue blinking light (which shows the system is locked) in the clear backup light lens.

As said, both systems are working great. Amazing also is the range the remotes work.

I have ordered 3 more units for my older Jaguars that will require an electrical actuator but that's another thread.

Hope these instructions help someone especially those who years ago gave up and had the same problem I had with the module just clicking.

Richard

Came across this thread and I'm thrilled to have a remote to open the locks.

Ordered a keyless set up from eBay. My question is which wires do I splice in, see photos?

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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).

Allow me to weigh in as yet another satisfied customer. The write up in the OP served me well, though I would add a few items. I couldn't make out what was meant by 'remove the jumper,' this mentioned in several posts. Then I found one post that referred to removing the tiny black thing. I looked again and there it was. Here are two before and after pics, not to insult anyone's intelligence but I had never seen such a device. As soon as I pulled it off it all became clear. I put a bit of tape on it with a black mark by the jumper. Might save someone some time. I found this remote on e-Bay for less than $15. Beats me that they can make them that cheap.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/282166736261

One small difference with this one, and I was a tad amazed that all the colors match up as well as they do, but my device was behaving backwards, that is it locked with the unlock button and unlocked with the lock button, with the blue led flashing on the unlocked position.

So I put two and two together and switched the two wires in the six control bundle that attach to power: I hooked yellow/black to 12v and yellow to ground and it worked correctly, saints be praised.

I'm glad to get this working - about a week ago my driver side lock cylinder stopped working, it's almost as if a vandal managed to cram some tiny rocks into it - the key will only go in about half way. I figured it would be about as much work to install a keyless entry as it would be to pull the cartridge out and get it repaired and likely cost less, and I like having a remote anyway so here I am.

I'll probably get the cartridge fixed sooner or later. In the meantime, the keyless entry will reduce wear and tear on the passenger side lock.

Attached Thumbnails

   

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1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Wasn't sure if I should start a new thread or continue this one. Bought this keyless entry kit 8 years ago and just started to install it on a '94 W124 cabrio.



These are the wiring diagrams:





The problem is it only works when I press UNLOCK. If I press LOCK, I hear clicking inside the box but nothing happens. I tried reversing the gray and yellow wires but then NOTHING happens when I press lock or unlock. The instructions mention changing the control time selection from 0.5 seconds to 4.0 seconds by unplugging a jumper and that it would be inside the control unit, but when I take it apart I see nothing.





And if UNLOCK works, wouldn't the time setting be fine? I have it wired as GREEN BLUE BROWN at 6P and BLACK at 10 pin to ground. YELLOW/BLACK on 6P and RED on 10 pin to 12 volts. YELLOW and GREY on 6P to the green wire that was cut in the round connector in the car. Any suggestions to get it working correctly?

I realize this is an old thread but I just installed one of those remotes in my W126. At first I had the same issue you described. According to the installation notes (pretty much worthless in my case) the jumper was set to pneumatic. I pulled the jumper and put it in the other position. It now works - although reversed but that's a different issue. It opens with the lock button and locks with the open button. I'll have to get back in there and reverse the yellow/black and the yellow wires but I'll do that some other time.

Good stuff - I want to do this on my 1991 350SD. I backfit keyless on my 19 BMW E30 318i and it worked great for all the years and use I had it.

What unit did you buy?

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I bought this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Car-Door-Keyless-Entry-System-Central-Remote-Control-Lock-Unlock-Kit/303247552743?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Took forever to get it but I liked the fact that there are only two buttons on the remote. They are pretty nice. Dirt cheap.

I would have gladly paid more and not wait 6-8 weeks to get it but then, it isn't something I lose sleep over either!

There's a new thing around where thieves can simply unlock your car with a device. Locks go right up, and in they go to your car to steal all your stuff.

A “device” isn’t really telling. My understanding was that was related to a Bluetooth, rfid or similar scanner that they pick up the signal from a keyless entry /ignition key in your pocket and then duplicate that signal.

While I’d assume that a thief could find the frequency and code variation to do it with these units, it’s less likely because they aren’t always on. The thief has to intercept the signal when the button is pressed.

If the device you speak of is something else, perhaps a transmitter that emits a broad range of frequencies and codes to see what works, that’s scary....

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I have the same problem. Does someone solve it?

Hello to anyone who is following this thread.

First, thank you for helping me install my own keyless entry kit.
Secondly, i have a question about the choice of wire which is tapped. The OP and others indicated choosing the green wire to splice the keyless controller into.

HAS ANYONE DETERMINED THE DIFFERENCE IN CHOOSING THE BLUE WIRE INSTEAD, AND DOES IT AFFECT HOW THE ALARM ARMS AND DISARMS?

- does the alarm arm and disarm correctly, regardless of selection of blue or green??

Thanks so much for any clarity on this!

scottmcphee
Can you post a pic of your setup? I am trying to do the same on my 93' 300D. A little confused on your explanation.

Thanks,
Tim

I installed one of the cheap Amazon kits today. Went pretty easily thanks to the instructions on here. I used the green lock wire and spliced into the power to the vacuum pump. I jumpered the second hot and ground to the first, post fuse.

Swapped in a 7.5A fuse. Put the unit in a ziploc bag to keep any moisture that ends up back there off of it. I had wet carpets the other night but no sign of moisture in the area under the seat, however I did treat a bit of surface rust under the pump a few months back.

When operating I think it pulls more than 400mA, but not enough to register properly on the 10A setting. On my fluke 179 meter I’d get an infinite display on the 400mA setting, but it wouldn’t register more than .2A and for a very short flash of time on the 10A setting.

In test mode it seems to pull 8mA, which is a bit more than spec.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)