don't ruin your SLS valve
 

like a dumda$$ i think i stripped the threads on my SLS valve:mad:. those damn hard lines are way too short to work with and no room above the axle.

One fitting was going in a little tighter than the other but I assumed it was because the line was so short and bend so tight that it was kinda rubbing on the fitting as I was tightening it. guess it was the threads going in cross-ways.

It's the real short line from the pax air cell to the valve right below. I think I'm gonna get a new, much longer line and make the connection with a wide curve so there is more flex and free play to align the fitting with the hole.

got my new air cells installed and now i've got hyd fluid shooting out one of the valve fittings. I guess that valve body is soft alloy?

be warned if you are working with your SLS valve.

Can you tap the valve body for a larger thread, make a line with a larger fitting on the valve end?

I did the same thing on mine years ago. I was able to make it work though. I too the line off the accumulator so I had more wiggle, put it on the valve and then put it back on the accumulator.

I have an extra valve if you need a replacement. Let me know. Oops just noticed you have an 87 in the signature, so my valve is no good for you.

Teflon tape may be your friend. I''d try the yellow kind used for gas lines.

I'll take a look at possibly tapping new threads, but then the bigger line won't match the air cell...

i don't think teflon tape will hold the PSI. tape is for low pressure fittings i think. gas and water.

I might be able to heli coil the valve port. i don't know. those brake line type fittings are precision i think.

I'll prob have to bit the bullet and order a new valve.

i'm mostly just pissed at the self inflicted wound....

Worst kind.

Thanks for sharing. I am about to embark upon SLS repairs on both my W123 and W124.

Wish me luck.

Let me know if you need o-rings for your 123 valve. More info in the link in my signature.

Odie
If it turns out that you cannot save your old control valve,i would gladly pay shipping and a couple of $ for packing/ handling. i really want to see whats in there and what it would take to reseal one as MB says they are not repairable.Let me know. Don

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

I've mentioned this many times before, check these guys and their products out. The line is cost comparable with lines from the dealer. But more importantly when you get to the points where there is difficulty these soft lines are worth every penny and more! The time and frustration factor are significantly reduced that value alone is worth it. When it comes to installing short lines in tight spaces like there is around the leveling valve this makes things infinitely easier.

If the OP had used these lines he would not have been struggling to align things at the valve and could have very well avoided what will now be extra hours, fluid, parts and dollars,

Fedhill now sells shorter lengths of line so you don’t need an entire roll, they also have all the fittings, although you can by the fittings at Auto Zone in a bag of 10 for less than a dollar each to have nice new clean parts. This Cunifer line is also extremely easy to flair even with a cheap tool.

They used to sell although I didn’t try looking for it a 6000 PSI compression splice fitting that could be used to repair the SLS lines when they suffer the “wear through” failure at the mounting clip areas due to abrasion and rust.

Good luck!

u can have the old one if it's junk. I wont have a chance to remove it until monday to take a closer look at it.

you could tap the valve for an inch size bushing, then use the original m10 size lines. might not be enough meat in the valve, not sure.

i re/re'd the valve twice on our 124 wagon and had similar problems. no stripped threads but it's very tight quarters and there are so many fittings to get started it's not easy at all. the second time i did i had the small lines free at the other end and this helped a great deal.

you could helicoil it, and use the original threads then.

helicoil might be a possibility it the housing has enough metal around it. I've been outta town all weeeknd but I'll be pulling the valve after work today and see what I see. no fun having the wagon stuck in the driveway.

Sombody once said..."If your gona drive an old car, have lots of em" ;)