DIY Drip Timing Tube

[DieselPaul]

I googled this but I can't find any good information.

Can I use a spare injection line from my parts car to make a drip timing tube? I'm not opposed to buying the tool, but I wanted to time the car tomorrow, not wait a week for the tool. I need to reinstall the injection pump on the 240D. Are there any specs on how long the drip timing tube is?

My car is W123 but can I follow this how to?
W115/OM616 Injection Pump Installation and Timing How To.

They are both 616s and I read through and think I have a decent understanding of how to do it.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by DieselPaul

I googled this but I can't find any good information.

Can I use a spare injection line from my parts car to make a drip timing tube? I'm not opposed to buying the tool, but I wanted to time the car tomorrow, not wait a week for the tool. I need to reinstall the injection pump on the 240D. Are there any specs on how long the drip timing tube is?

My car is W123 but can I follow this how to?
W115/OM616 Injection Pump Installation and Timing How To.

They are both 616s and I read through and think I have a decent understanding of how to do it.

When People make there own they use a piece of the Fuel Old Fuel Injection Line.
In fact make 2 from the same Fuel Injection Line and sell the other one to someone.

Try to locate a pic of the original tool and make the bend and cut the Hypodermic type cut in the tube in about the same place.

Here is My version of Drip Timing:
Drip Timing Summarized
Before you do any rotating of the Fuel Injection Pump scribe a mark a crossed the Pump Flange to the Engine so you can return the Fuel Injection Pump to the original spot if you run into a problem.

Disconnect the Vacuum Line from the Fuel Shutoff. The Throttle lever needs to be in the Full Fuel position. If you like put a sign on the Steering Wheel to remind you the Throttle Lever is in the Full Fuel Position.

Remove the #1 Delivery Valve Holder and remove the Spring and the center part of the Valve that the Spring made contact with. Re-install the Delivery Valve holder.

(when you are finished and are replacing the Spring and that Central Valve you need to change the Copper Crush Washer on MW Fuel Injection Pumps and the O-ring and Copper Crush Washer on M type Pumps.)

The Engine needs to be rotated Clockwise as viewed from the Crankshaft Damper end of the Engine; that is the normal direction of rotation.

If you are adjusting the timing on an Engine that has been running OK the timing is most likely just a little be retarded/late. What this means is that if the Fuel Injection Pump needs to be moved it is only going to be a tiny amount.

What makes the Movement easier is to remove all of the Fuel Injection Hard Line Tubing.
With Crank Shaft Damper lined up on 24 Degrees BTDC (on the compression stroke; OT on the Crankshaft Damper is Top Dead Center) BTDC is before top dead Center.

Reminder; The Delivery Valve and Spring and central Valve removed and the Delivery Valve Holder back in place.
The Drip Tube in place on Number 1 (I pointed My Drip Tube towards the Engine because I thought it was easier to see there). Pump on the Hand Primer and see what happens. Put a pan under the Engine to catch the dripping Fuel.

If the Fuel Injection Pump needs to be rotated loosen The Single Nut and Bolt at the Rear Bracket and the Fuel Injection Pump Flange Nuts and just nudge the Fuel Injection Pump a tiny bit in the direction you want it to go.

Snug one of the Flange Nuts a little and pump a lot on the Hand Primer and count the drips; If the IP moves while you are Pumping the Hand Primer, line it back up with your scribed mark and start over again making sure after you move the Pump a bit to snug enough so the Pump will not move.

Moving the top of the Fuel Injection Pump closer to the Engine advances the Timing. Towards the Fender Well retards the timing.

So basically you move the Fuel Injection Pump a tiny increment; stop; Pump a lot on the Hand primer and count the drips when the pressure is the highest. If it needs to be moved repeat the procedure.

Again; Rotating the top of the Fuel Injection Pump towards the Engine Block advances the Timing. Moving towards the Fender Well retards the timing.

When you have the number of drips you want stop and tighten down the Flange Nuts and the rear Bracket Nut and bolt and reassemble the Delivery Center Valve, Spring and use a New Copper Crush Washer. If you have an M type Pump you will also need a new O-ring in addition to the Copper Crush Washer. Torque the Delivery Valve Holder to the proper spec.

This is not part of the Instructions but when People have trouble with the Drip Method I is several reasons.
1- they rotate the Pump too much
2-The do not keep the Fuel Pressure even; high pressure = more drips than low pressure so try to count the drips while you Pumping on the Hand Primer or right after you stop pumping
3- They did not scribe the Fuel Injection Pump Flange and Block area and when the turn the Pump too far they can't rotate the Pump back to where they started from
4- They are at 24 degrees BTDC but it is on the wrong (Exhaust) stroke.
5- They rotated the Engine in the wrong direction when the lined up on 24 Degrees BTDC; that does not leave the Timing Chain stretched properly.

[cooljjay]

Quick question on the timing.....if you have timing chain stretch..say 2 degrees....does one need to set the crank to 26 btdc...instead of 24 btdc? I ask because I think my chain has stretched and when I checked the timing a few months ago...I got no drip with it full throttled but once un throttled it dripped...timing was good about a year ago....sorry for the thread hijacking...

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by cooljjay

Quick question on the timing.....if you have timing chain stretch..say 2 degrees....does one need to set the crank to 26 btdc...instead of 24 btdc? I ask because I think my chain has stretched and when I checked the timing a few months ago...I got no drip with it full throttled but once un throttled it dripped...timing was good about a year ago....sorry for the thread hijacking...

No worry about Timing Chain stretch for the Fuel Injection Timing because you are timing it to the Crankshaft. You will be moving the Fuel Injection Pump to compensate for that.

What I cannot get straight in My Head is if after doing the IP timing you install an offset Woodruff Key in the Camshaft to correct the Camshaft Timing.
However, My best guess is that; that does not change the Fuel Injection Pump Timing.

[cooljjay]

That is good to know...one day I will pull the IP, line up the marks, lock it in place and get it to drip again....but I may wait till I get the finds to find a nice type m pump...I would really like the add 10 horsepower..