I am not blaming the switch. I either stop it too soon of go past where I want to stop.
I also want both of the Valves to be on the base circle at the same time.

It is just one of those jobs I prefer to do manually.

If I worked in a Garage and did several Valve Adjustments a day I would adapt to using the Switch. But, for a Valve Adjustment every 1.5 years I do not feel burdened by rotating the Engine by hand.

The last issue is that I have never been able to keep the bulk of the things I own in any sort of order; combined with a poor memory of where I put things.
The Remote Starter Button is something that I use maybe only every 5 years or so. This means finding it when I need it could take longer than the whole time it takes for me to do a Valve Adjustment.

I'm going to try the switch, if that doesn't work then I'll be taking apart the fan bits and doing it by hand. Got only knows the last time that the valves were adjusted.

I tried using only the p/s bolt and got nowhere. Then I found some advice to use the p/s bolt and the alternator bolt - it turned easily with sockets on both of those. I didn't feel like I was overtorqueing anything and I could see exactly where the cam was.

I've got a single piece of 10 gauge wire that should be able to connect the two. Is that it? Just feather the connection until the engine is rotated to the right spot? It seems almost too easy.

one more thing... if you have a manual transmission equipped MB, be sure you are in neutral!

Automatic unfortunately.

My junction box has only three junctions instead of the four in your photo. Can I bridge the outer connections with a ten gauge wire safely? Can this be done without a switch?

A little help please, I've got everything apart, but I don't want to burn out the electrics by accident.

I've tried cranking by the ps pump, no love. The fan keeps me from getting at the alternator bolt, and the harmonic balancer is several inches deep to get at the main crank bolt. I've done valves many many times on BMW motorcycles and cars, but getting this crank to turn is really becoming troublesome.

Have you tried from under the car with the deep 27mm?

I use the same socket I use for Injectors, fits OK and a ratchet handle....

BTW, Turn the engine only in its normal direction of rotation which is C-W from the front....:)

nothing will burn out if you jump the wrong wire in the box. it will either turn the motor, or not. if it does not turn, use a different wire.

On mine if I take a good looke at the Terminal block I see that the 2 screws and wires closest to the Batter are bot (+). As you go forward there is a tiny plastic Wall.
On the other side of the Wall is one Screw with a White and Purple Wire.

You will be connecting any of the 2 towards the rear to the one screw in the front.

You can just use a Wire to bridge the 2 sides but evertime you make contact it may spark and that is normal. However, everytime it sparks it is going to slighlty burn the Screw Head/s.

It sounds like I should probably look into some sort of a switch then.

Since I was running out of working time I started working on taking off the fan since that seemed to be a common theme for easy crank access. Lost a 10mm wrench to a cut knuckle that bounced behind the harmonic balancer bit on the crank.

So now I'm working on taking off the alternator and the housing for the alternator so that I can hopefully reach behind and grab it. The round part of the wrench is somehow behind a screw that won't let me pull it out at the angle that I've got available, using 2 claw hands and 2 magnetic grabbers.

Sigh. Now I have to drive the woman to work tomorrow and lose out on a morning on getting the alternator off.

I'll put in a seventh or eighth vote that the remote starter switch is probably your best bet.

This makes me grateful for the fact that my 240 is stick shift. We just put it in 4th gear and turn the engine by pulling or pushing the car an inch at a time.

Good luck digging the wrench out. You MIGHT want to consider disconnecting the battery. There are some fairly heavy duty wires coming to and from the alternator. Although they SHOULD be insulated (one would hope) I'm sure there are plenty of places you could find while digging around for a metal wrench with metal tools to short out. You'd then have a 12v arc welder made with your wrench. Just a fairly simple precaution since you're working near the thing and know there's a metal tool floating near 12v alternator wiring and terminals, etc.

aack.
do not hook your switch to ground of any kind!~!!!

you want to connect to the screws in the junction block on the fender! if you connect to ground you will melt either your wires, or the switch you use, and you can explode your battery!!!!!

ONLY hook to the wires INSIDE the junction block!~!!!

they are all positive. and one is to the solenoid switch on the starter! very little power draw!

Thanks!!!

I just removed that statement from my previous post altogether. Safest way to fix it.