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#1
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idler arm rebuild question
1982 w123 coupe
the top idler bushing came right out, the bottom not so much. I tried driving it out with a pipe from the top but it sounds very solid. Is this tube the same diameter all the way through or is there a smaller diameter sleeve in the middle?
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#2
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In the 126 and 124 it's a straight through tube.
Sixto 87 300D |
#3
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Yep, sometimes they are stuck good. BEAT it out.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#4
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yep I beat on it for 10 minutes, it sounds like its part of the car. In the end I grabbed the steel sleve with a vise grip and it pulled out of the rubber, then a second sheetmetal type peice came out, then I was able to twist the rubber that was left and it peeled out. got rid of my wandering with the new taller tires , rest of the front is real tight, darn speed bumps are taxing all my cars suspensions
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#5
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I heated mine and started burning the rubber in it
A brass punch from the top downward did the trick. I was afraid I was going to break the actual arm.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#6
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A BFH is required. I have used a long piece of steam pipe so that I am above the motor etc when doing the pounding. A little lube of some description helps sometimes.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#7
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I did mine a little while ago, IIRC there is a metal lip in the center of the tube. You have to hammer just inside of that to get the other half out.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#8
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am i crazy to think i get the nut off the idler arm bolt with my electric impact wrench? despite soaking it with wd40 overnight, it won't budge. it doesn't look rusted at all.
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R Martin Dallas, TX (Addison) 86 560SEL, 128K |
#9
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Pretty sure it was installed with blue thread lock so some heat on the nut should make it much easier to break it free.
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#10
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Quote:
A powerful (Binford style) impact can probably get it off. I always block the top and use a big breaker bar on the nut at the bottom. Hasn't failed me yet. As for the bushings, some have slid out (extremely worn), some I pound out, and two nights ago I had to torch it out of my brother's 300D, it was IN there. Heat burned off the rubber and the metal pieces came right out.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#11
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That may be correct that no liquid thread lock substance is employed, the nut itself is self-locking although I'm not certain of the methodology employed. It is also torqued to 120 Nm so that possibly helps make it difficult to remove, heat will ease removal under either circumstance luckily!
Last edited by Billybob; 09-23-2010 at 08:26 PM. |
#12
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Quote:
One of the tightest bolts on the car is the crank pulley bolt, which is tightened to 300nm
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#13
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Quote:
Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
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