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  #1  
Old 09-04-2010, 11:54 AM
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idler arm rebuild question

1982 w123 coupe

the top idler bushing came right out, the bottom not so much. I tried driving it out with a pipe from the top but it sounds very solid. Is this tube the same diameter all the way through or is there a smaller diameter sleeve in the middle?

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  #2  
Old 09-04-2010, 12:55 PM
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In the 126 and 124 it's a straight through tube.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 09-04-2010, 02:57 PM
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Yep, sometimes they are stuck good. BEAT it out.
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2010, 08:39 AM
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yep I beat on it for 10 minutes, it sounds like its part of the car. In the end I grabbed the steel sleve with a vise grip and it pulled out of the rubber, then a second sheetmetal type peice came out, then I was able to twist the rubber that was left and it peeled out. got rid of my wandering with the new taller tires , rest of the front is real tight, darn speed bumps are taxing all my cars suspensions
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #5  
Old 09-05-2010, 11:14 AM
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I heated mine and started burning the rubber in it

A brass punch from the top downward did the trick. I was afraid I was going to break the actual arm.
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  #6  
Old 09-05-2010, 11:35 AM
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A BFH is required. I have used a long piece of steam pipe so that I am above the motor etc when doing the pounding. A little lube of some description helps sometimes.
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  #7  
Old 09-05-2010, 11:54 AM
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I did mine a little while ago, IIRC there is a metal lip in the center of the tube. You have to hammer just inside of that to get the other half out.
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2010, 06:47 PM
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am i crazy to think i get the nut off the idler arm bolt with my electric impact wrench? despite soaking it with wd40 overnight, it won't budge. it doesn't look rusted at all.
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  #9  
Old 09-23-2010, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsmartin View Post
am i crazy to think i get the nut off the idler arm bolt with my electric impact wrench? despite soaking it with wd40 overnight, it won't budge. it doesn't look rusted at all.
Pretty sure it was installed with blue thread lock so some heat on the nut should make it much easier to break it free.
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  #10  
Old 09-23-2010, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybob View Post
Pretty sure it was installed with blue thread lock so some heat on the nut should make it much easier to break it free.
They are not installed with any thread locker. How hard they are to get off is completely random. 3 of our cars I did (w126s and a w123) came out pretty easily, my W124 came out fairly easily, my sister's W201 nearly broke my breaker bar getting the thing loose.

A powerful (Binford style) impact can probably get it off. I always block the top and use a big breaker bar on the nut at the bottom. Hasn't failed me yet.

As for the bushings, some have slid out (extremely worn), some I pound out, and two nights ago I had to torch it out of my brother's 300D, it was IN there. Heat burned off the rubber and the metal pieces came right out.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 90k - mine - (OC-91,200)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 18k - wifes (OC-25k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 161k - mine (OC-165,000)
'01 E320 - 180k - dad's (OC-182,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 134k - dad's (OC-139,500)
'01 SL500 - 56k - dad's (OC-59,000)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 81k - Brothers (OC-88,000)
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  #11  
Old 09-23-2010, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
They are not installed with any thread locker.
That may be correct that no liquid thread lock substance is employed, the nut itself is self-locking although I'm not certain of the methodology employed. It is also torqued to 120 Nm so that possibly helps make it difficult to remove, heat will ease removal under either circumstance luckily!

Last edited by Billybob; 09-23-2010 at 08:26 PM.
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2010, 09:01 PM
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Dieselsüchtiger
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billybob View Post
That may be correct that no liquid thread lock substance is employed, the nut itself is self-locking although I'm not certain of the methodology employed. It is also torqued to 120 Nm so that possibly helps make it difficult to remove, heat will ease removal under either circumstance luckily!
Indeed it is a self locking nut, however, 120nm is only 88ft/lbs. Not much more than the lugs on the wheels.

One of the tightest bolts on the car is the crank pulley bolt, which is tightened to 300nm
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 90k - mine - (OC-91,200)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 18k - wifes (OC-25k)
'01 E320 Wagon - 161k - mine (OC-165,000)
'01 E320 - 180k - dad's (OC-182,500)
'07 E350 Wagon - 134k - dad's (OC-139,500)
'01 SL500 - 56k - dad's (OC-59,000)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 81k - Brothers (OC-88,000)
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2010, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
They are not installed with any thread locker. How hard they are to get off is completely random. 3 of our cars I did (w126s and a w123) came out pretty easily, my W124 came out fairly easily, my sister's W201 nearly broke my breaker bar getting the thing loose.

A powerful (Binford style) impact can probably get it off. I always block the top and use a big breaker bar on the nut at the bottom. Hasn't failed me yet.

As for the bushings, some have slid out (extremely worn), some I pound out, and two nights ago I had to torch it out of my brother's 300D, it was IN there. Heat burned off the rubber and the metal pieces came right out.
The Binford 6100 is what I use.

Charlie

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