ALDA adjust vs. Remove - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 12-31-2010, 10:14 AM

it is VERY tight in there, but it can be done. mine is off on my sedan, and on on the wagon. Big difference. and the wagon has 1/2 the miles.

Turbo300Mercede · #17 12-31-2010, 11:01 AM

Again, thanks for the information.
It first appeared to me that the linkage was "pinned" to the ALDA, but now a closer look at the diagram and with your help, I see that it is just a plunger.
I find it is always better to ask someone that has prior knowledge, than just forging ahead into unknown territory. My car is, in my opinion, dangereously slow from a dead stop pulling out into traffic. It is fine once it reaches 2600 rpm, good torque from there to about 3900 rpm. I have around 10.5 psi of boost once underway. I will be trying this modification to see if it pumps up the off idle torque.
Jeff

babymog · #18 12-31-2010, 12:58 PM

I personally like an adjusted ALDA, provided it is otherwise working, even if adjusted agressively. That gives you the aneroid effect; leaning the mixture to match barometric pressure, so that it doesn't smoke at higher altitudes (smoke is money, plus higher EGTs, plus more soot into the oil and ring lands). On a car with a functioning trap-cat (most '87s) it also robs power as it will (by design) build up in and restrict the trap-cat until it causes enough restriction-heat to burn off.

Doktor Bert · #19 12-31-2010, 01:41 PM

I run the ALDA all the way out CCW on my 617.950 and get very good performance; about 11-12 seconds 0-60 and still knocking off 28mpg on the freeway.

Adding shims will allow more adjustment. We added 2 shims on Dad's 617.952 and it made a big difference in acceleration...

Doktor Bert · #20 12-31-2010, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

I personally like an adjusted ALDA, provided it is otherwise working, even if adjusted agressively. That gives you the aneroid effect; leaning the mixture to match barometric pressure, so that it doesn't smoke at higher altitudes (smoke is money, plus higher EGTs, plus more soot into the oil and ring lands). On a car with a functioning trap-cat (most '87s) it also robs power as it will (by design) build up in and restrict the trap-cat until it causes enough restriction-heat to burn off.

I agree 100%.

Additionally, after using gapless rings in a 617, I will never build an engine without them again.

scottmcphee · #21 12-31-2010, 05:22 PM

On a 603, you have to remove the ALDA to adjust it because of lack of room. So strictly speaking it's not an either/or question for this engine it's a BOTH if you plan to keep it. But once the ALDA is off, you'll have achieved the ultimate adjustment and there is questionable value of putting it back on. That would only serve to double your work for no gain.

On my car (no ALDA) it's very hard to make black smoke, and when it happens it is only very brief. I'm happy knowing that I'm making power instead of smoke, and I trust my right foot for making power when I need it.

buffa98 · #22 12-31-2010, 06:16 PM

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/69422-om603-alda-removal-instructions.html#post431887

This should explain the alda shimming.

Turbo300Mercede · #23 12-31-2010, 06:34 PM

Well, I started working on the car. I had to remove the intake manifold anyway and this will now be an easier task to deal with the ALDA. But when I looked down the turbo crossover tube, as I had feared, there was engine oil, also the intake and crossover were thick with about 1/8 inch of black gunk. So I now know where some of my oil comsumption has been going. I guess the turbo will be coming off for a compressor seal.

---Does anyone know of a good source for turbo rebuild kits for the AiResearch Turbos on the 87 300D Turbo? My manual says it is either a TB03 or a T03.---

It has been putting out 10.5 psi max since I purchased it about 5 months back, 198K miles. I did notice that the wastegate linkage is frozen. I don't yet know if it is frozen closed or slightly cracked open, but I suspect it is closed. The car comes on strong around 2700 rpm. Below that it is very weak. It makes about 4 psi at 70 mph and cruising. ---Do these numbers sound normal for these cars?---

Thanks,
Jeff

Turbo300Mercede · #24 12-31-2010, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buffa98

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=431887

This should explain the alda shimming.

That is very informative, just what I needed. Thank you!

Thanks to everyone for their input. This forum is way more informative than the Factory Manual.

Thanks!
Jeff

vstech · #25 12-31-2010, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo300Mercede

Well, I started working on the car. I had to remove the intake manifold anyway and this will now be an easier task to deal with the ALDA. But when I looked down the turbo crossover tube, as I had feared, there was engine oil, also the intake and crossover were thick with about 1/8 inch of black gunk. So I now know where some of my oil comsumption has been going. I guess the turbo will be coming off for a compressor seal.

---Does anyone know of a good source for turbo rebuild kits for the AiResearch Turbos on the 87 300D Turbo? My manual says it is either a TB03 or a T03.---

It has been putting out 10.5 psi max since I purchased it about 5 months back, 198K miles. I did notice that the wastegate linkage is frozen. I don't yet know if it is frozen closed or slightly cracked open, but I suspect it is closed. The car comes on strong around 2700 rpm. Below that it is very weak. It makes about 4 psi at 70 mph and cruising. ---Do these numbers sound normal for these cars?---

Thanks,
Jeff

plug off your EGR... it's loading the oil vapor that is in the intake because of the crankcase vent with soot, the soot is forming a nasty sludge on the intake tubing. stop up the EGR, clean the tubes, and the soot will never return...

babymog · #26 01-01-2011, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmcphee

On a 603, you have to remove the ALDA to adjust it because of lack of room. So strictly speaking it's not an either/or question for this engine it's a BOTH if you plan to keep it. But once the ALDA is off, you'll have achieved the ultimate adjustment and there is questionable value of putting it back on. That would only serve to double your work for no gain.

On my car (no ALDA) it's very hard to make black smoke, and when it happens it is only very brief. I'm happy knowing that I'm making power instead of smoke, and I trust my right foot for making power when I need it.

I have adjusted all of my aldas, never had to remove one nor the manifolds etc. (All 602/6003s).

Turbo300Mercede · #27 01-04-2011, 06:48 PM

Well the turbo is well worn to the tune of $475 in parts. The shaft needs turning .010 under, the centerhousing needs honing .010 oversized and the aluminum center bearing support is toast. Suprisingly, the compressor wheel, housing and turbine wheel and housing are ok.

---Does anyone know of a good source for turbo parts, centersections, or the entire turbo for the TB0359 Turbo on these cars?---

Somewhere I had seen a post for a company that offered the cartridge for less than $300, but I did not know I needed one at that time....

Thanks,
Jeff

ForcedInduction · #28 01-04-2011, 09:19 PM

A good used turbo shouldn't cost more than $100 and they're not rare.