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  #16  
Old 09-25-2010, 11:54 PM
compu_85's Avatar
Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
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Yes, remember you are dealing with old VDO instruments here. Verify the temp is actually too high before you spend a lot of time trying to fix it

-J

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  #17  
Old 09-26-2010, 12:15 AM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
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Location: Mount Holly, NC
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...
you are reading high temps after collision...
you noticed crud on the thermostat when changing it...
you are using green/yellow coolant...
what's the difference in cost between zerex G05 and random yellow coolant? 3.00? maybe...
wall mart yellow, 10.50 a gallon.
NAPA Zerex 12.00...
anywho... here's what I'D do...

crawl under the car with a long extension, and a 19mm socket and pull the block drain. flush with water. then put it back!
drain the radiator, and back flush it through the lower radiator hose,
flush the heater core.
buy some zerex. and distilled water.
fill the radiator and the engine slowly with 60%distilled/40%Zerex *(it's the WATER that does all the heat transfer, not the coolant! more than 35% Coolant and you are just giving yourself below -20°F freeze protection... in FL???)*
drive happy.
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  #18  
Old 09-26-2010, 01:19 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,269
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
...
you are reading high temps after collision...
you noticed crud on the thermostat when changing it...
you are using green/yellow coolant...
what's the difference in cost between zerex G05 and random yellow coolant? 3.00? maybe...
wall mart yellow, 10.50 a gallon.
NAPA Zerex 12.00...
anywho... here's what I'D do...

crawl under the car with a long extension, and a 19mm socket and pull the block drain. flush with water. then put it back!
drain the radiator, and back flush it through the lower radiator hose,
flush the heater core.
buy some zerex. and distilled water.
fill the radiator and the engine slowly with 60%distilled/40%Zerex *(it's the WATER that does all the heat transfer, not the coolant! more than 35% Coolant and you are just giving yourself below -20°F freeze protection... in FL???)*
drive happy.
I don't think you quite understand where I'm coming from, but I agree that the procedure you describe is something I should do. And I will do. I'm going to flush everything, trust me.

1. Yes I am reading high temps after the collision, which lead me to believe that a mechanical component is to blame (or radiator of some sort). I mean it went up literally while I was driving the car after the accident.

2. I did notice crud, but this isn't like "floaty dirt that collected on the thermostat" crud. It's "this has been baking on the housing for thirty years" crud. I took a screw driver to it and it still took several passes before it got enough of it off to fit the gasket in. I don't think that this is to blame.

3. Yes sir. I used it primarily because it is cheaper and allows me to dump and refill the system without having to either special order new coolant or run to MB and get some. MB's coolant is a little more then 20 bucks per gallon. I'd rather spend 8, mess with the system until I am happy, THEN make the investment of expensive coolant. Walmart yellow here is $8 bucks a gallon, G-05 is $17.50 (cheapest here). Basically why waste a good thing, especially when I'm a poor college student living off of ramen noodles
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  #19  
Old 09-26-2010, 07:05 PM
ImBroke's Avatar
Diesel way of Life
 
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Location: Cleveland, NY
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Colin, any luck in trying to find an infrared thermometer? IDK if you can rent one or not.
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  #20  
Old 09-26-2010, 07:22 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImBroke View Post
Colin, any luck in trying to find an infrared thermometer? IDK if you can rent one or not.
Harbor freight has them pretty cheap, like 25 bucks. I'll probably pick one up after work tomorrow and verify everything.

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