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-   -   ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENT w123 (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/285723-alternator-replacement-w123.html)

funola 12-23-2010 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech (Post 2616080)
the top bolt should not need access from behind the WP pulley. that nut should be welded to the frame... all bolts should be loosened from the back side of the alternator.

Did you mean I should weld it to the frame or it's welded by Meredes? :eek:

vstech 12-23-2010 11:55 PM

I have a few brackets that are broken loose, and plan to weld them up. but the factory had the nut welded to the bracket. if yours spins it's a pain to get it out!

Fattyman 12-24-2010 12:16 AM

Been there, Done that. Keep the sharp objects away. Hide the children.:mad:

funola 12-24-2010 05:18 PM

The Ebay alternator arrived this afternoon and I just finished installing it. Everything went smoothly and idle charge voltage is 14.1 V. See this thread

http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c397/funola/?action=view&current=Photo_122410_009.jpg

for details and pics. BTW Fattyman, my adjuster bracket has a square hole stamping in it but it fits the new alternator perfectly.

Fattyman 12-25-2010 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola (Post 2616594)
The Ebay alternator arrived this afternoon and I just finished installing it. Everything went smoothly and idle charge voltage is 14.1 V. See this thread

http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c397/funola/?action=view&current=Photo_122410_009.jpg

for details and pics. BTW Fattyman, my adjuster bracket has a square hole stamping in it but it fits the new alternator perfectly.

Cool, I had a hard time with that bracket so I just swapped it out for the non stamped version. I may have been because I had shorter than normal belts.
You won't have to worry about voltage anymore!

funola 12-25-2010 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech (Post 2616080)
the top bolt should not need access from behind the WP pulley. that nut should be welded to the frame... all bolts should be loosened from the back side of the alternator.

Thanks for this bit of info which saved me from wasting time trying to undo the welded nut, which is hard to see that it's welded on mine.

funola 12-25-2010 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fattyman (Post 2616908)
Cool, I had a hard time with that bracket so I just swapped it out for the non stamped version. I may have been because I had shorter than normal belts.
You won't have to worry about voltage anymore!

What year/model have the stamped vs non stamped adj. bracket? What IS the difference?

vstech 12-25-2010 11:11 AM

on the two 78's i have, there is a alternator bracket that has an adjuster star instead of the goofy L bolt for adjustment, is this what you are describing as non stamped?

funola 12-25-2010 01:33 PM

I found a pic of a non stamped hole bracket in another thread. Is this it?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...2&d=1293170460

This is the stamped hole bracket (mine)
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...122410_007.jpg

Yak 12-25-2010 02:42 PM

That's interesting, because I have two brackets that are the exact opposite: The stamped hole version (lower pic) does NOT have the welded nut, but the non-hole version (upper pic) DOES have a welded nut. These are both for the 90-degree style tension bolt not the gear-ratchet style tension nut

I can understand how mechanics may bend/strip the adjusters if they're trying to loosen a welded nut. The tensioner seems to be the same, but that inboard nut/bolt combo could get frustrating based on location and whether it's welded, and/or the bolt goes from the front to the rear or the rear to the front.

vstech 12-25-2010 02:53 PM

I've not seen one of the non stamped versions before... interesting. I like the welded nut, one less thing to hold when messing with this thing.
the adjuster is an elegant design, and IF worked properly, is fantastic.
not sure how the larger alt works in one... if somebody wants to ship me a free one to play with, I'll happily write up an install procedure!


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