190D 2.2 EGR system vacuum line modification, peer review needed
 

I have recently acquired an '84 190D 2.2 California model with EGR. The Vacuum routing for the EGR was totally hacked so I decided to fix it by removing it all together along with its associated components.

Attached you will find the before and after of the vacuum routing that I performed after studying it for a while.

I would love to get some feedback on my modification and make sure it is appropriate.

Also if anyone has a 190D 2.2 non EGR vacuum diagram, I would very much appreciate that.

Thanks!

Looks good. You might notice a stiff shift or two in the morning since you cut the cold shift softening circuit out of the loop but such is the price of simplicity.

You might physically block or remove the EGR valve in case it isn't fully closing.

Sixto
87 300D

How would it be wired if there were no EGR to begin with? I looked and looked, and googled but I cannot find a vacuum diagram for 190D 2.2 without EGR

I just noticed that you have idle step up engaged all the time. I can't tell from the diagram under what conditions idle should step up (coolant temp? AC compressor engaged?).

IIRC the 201/2.2 was a US only configuration so you won't find a non-EGR version. You might find something useful in the attachments here -

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/285779-vacuum-diagrams-201-124-a.html

Sixto
87 300D

Hmm... maybe not. All the configurations in those pdf's have an ELR actuator (Y22) meaning they have electronic idle control. Yours looks to have mechanical idle control.

Sixto
87 300D

Well the service manual states that there is a California edition with EGR and a Federal edition without EGR. So someone must have a 2.2 without egr, I have seen them on ebay.

Interesting. Similar vintage Federal 300Ds have EGR. But they have turbos. Maybe that's the difference. I just don't have info on 201s or 601s.

What I would do until an appropriate vacuum diagram is available is add back VSV 127 and temp switch 128. See attachment without flapper. I don't know of the pressure control valve by default is in a favorable or unfavorable position. If it's in an unfavorable position by default, either wire it in the favorable position or add back the devices that operate the pressure control valve. See attachment with flapper.

Sixto
87 300D

I'm working through a similar problem as the original poster. I have a 190D 2.2L with manual transmission which had hacked vacuum lines when I got it. I'm trying to put them back the way they are supposed to be but cannot for the life of me find a correct vacuum diagram for the engine/trans combo. Does anyone here have one?

Edit: also, how do I tell if it has EGR?

190D MT? Big vacuum line to brake booster with spur for engine shut-off and small line to ACC. You don't need anything else.

Sixto
87 300D

Here is my selfmade schema of an 2.5 diesel.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1351679213

I went to the hobby model shop and bought a small sheet of copper, about 3" x 5" for $3.50.

I removed the filthly, disgusting, oily EGR on my 1987 190D turbo, cleaned it up a bit and traced the outer intake gasket shape onto the copper sheet with an awl.

I did not trace or cut out for the center hole that would allow exhaust gas into the intake.

I drilled out the EGR mounting holes in the copper with a 3/8th bit and using tin snips, cut the outline on the copper sheet to make a blocking plate.

I installed the blocking plate using orange 700F degree gasket goop ($8.00) to seal the parts together and waited 24 hours before starting the engine.

The immediate effect was that driving with a cold engine, traveling slowly, the car now has a lot more power. It drives like it was designed to in the first place. When warmed up, it now gets about 8% better fuel mileage and/or has about 10% more power.

I suspect my ERG control system was faulty and it was allowing exhaust gasses into the intake before the engine was warmed up.

My simple fix took less than an hour and cost about $12.00. I'll never look at the EGR again.

Agreed with the exception being the vacuum operated idle control (if equipped).

Looking into doing an EGR delete on my 1985 190D 2.2L 5-speed. I haven't done enough research to understand the system but I saw on another thread that just disconnecting pin 3 from the microswitch 134/I is all that's needed.

I know this is old thread. I am trying to connect vac as it should on my w124 250D using supercow attachment as reference. Mine is om602.911 with pneumatic idle. Manual transmission. Previous owner just hook up vacuum to work with shuf off valve.

Got the idle up working when engine is cold. But then it wont back down as there is no way to bleed off the existing vacuum. I have been trying to find out what lies beyond line “a” which goes to interior. There must be some mechanism to bleed off the vacuum inside the cabin. With my current setup I block off line a.

Can someone enlighten me what is going on inside the cabin. I have several vacuum pods inside which I still do not understand how they operate. Been trying to search several forums but still no idea.

a is a vent line that stays open in the cabin. Connects to nothing.

Looks to me that up to 30*C vacuum is available to PLA with a controlled leak through 0.13mm orifice. From 30*C the thermoswitch closes to cut vacuum. Residual vacuum, so to speak, in the line to the PLA should just bleed to the cabin. Make sure orifice 62b is not clogged. Make sure thermoswitch 128a closes from 30*C.

Sixto
98 E320 wagon 197K miles