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  #1  
Old 10-01-2010, 06:07 PM
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CCU or Monovalve

So i've done a lot of reading and I'm still having a hard time telling whether my problem is due to the CCU or monovalve. I just took the Benz out for about 15 minutes and had full heat the entire time. I go from full heat on the dial to full cool and I don't notice any different in temp. ALso, if I go across the row from defrost to those other buttons to the right I notice NO difference. However, there is a difference b/w high and low fan. The difference in fan speed is the only differnence I notice out of all the buttons. Temp stays at full heat it seems.
I know my vacuum is shot in the cabin so that could explain why I'm not noticing a diffence b/w which pods are blowing air. Currently I get defrost and the pods against the doors blow. I bought a used CCU and that's what I'm using now.
Is this my monovalve failed and stuck open or is it my CCU?

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  #2  
Old 10-01-2010, 06:22 PM
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Have you checked the ACC fuse?

You can check the monovalve wires. One should have constant +12V, the other should be open for full heat, ground for zero heat and a pulsing signal for controlled heat. The signal vs temp wheel setting should tell you whether the problem is at the monovalve or upstream.

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Last edited by sixto; 10-01-2010 at 10:33 PM.
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  #3  
Old 10-01-2010, 07:06 PM
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It takes just moments to remove the mono valve, you can inspect it for a torn diaphragm.
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  #4  
Old 10-01-2010, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
It takes just moments to remove the mono valve, you can inspect it for a torn diaphragm.
Full, uncommanded heat isn't usually associated with a torn diaphragm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by saludayaker View Post
Is this my monovalve failed and stuck open or is it my CCU?
It could be (and often is) just a poor electrical connection at the monovalve. You can check the control circuit as follows (key on, CCU off):
One terminal at the monovalve should have system voltage present. The other terminal should have continuity to ground. If either is not present, there is a control issue.
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Old 10-01-2010, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
It could be (and often is) just a poor electrical connection at the monovalve. You can check the control circuit as follows (key on, CCU off):
One terminal at the monovalve should have system voltage present. The other terminal should have continuity to ground. If either is not present, there is a control issue.
And when you turn it to a heater/defrost setting you should see the voltage at the terminals cycle on/off about every five seconds. Be careful you don't short the two terminals together or you could fry your CCU.
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  #6  
Old 10-01-2010, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by micalk View Post
And when you turn it to a heater/defrost setting you should see the voltage at the terminals cycle on/off about every five seconds.
That is incorrect. The monovalve is controlled via a switched ground; voltage should be present at one terminal anytime the ignition switch is on.
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  #7  
Old 10-01-2010, 10:18 PM
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Full heat all the time and in all settings means that the monovalve is in its default full open position. The cause is either a bad monovalve or a failure of the circuit that controls it. As Sixto says, check the fuse first. Don't just look at it, remove it, hold it in your hand, make sure it isn't cracked across in the middle and make sure the ends are not corroded.

If the fuse is good, check for voltage across the two terminals of the monovalve with the CCU set for full cooling. If you measure 12 Volts, the CCU is probably OK and the monovalve is probably bad. If you measure 0 volts, the problem is probably in the CCU.

You can also test the monovalve by removing the plug and (for a couple of seconds only) put 12 volts across the terminals (either way). You should hear a click as the solenoid moves and you may see a little sparking as you touch and remove the wires. If the monovalve doesn't react, remove it and take it apart. Failure modes are (a) torn diaphragm, (b) jammed diaphragm, (c) rust in the solenoid coil due to an internal coolant leak, (d) open coil wire and probably others that I can't think of now.
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2010, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Failure modes are (a) torn diaphragm, (b) jammed diaphragm, (c) rust in the solenoid coil due to an internal coolant leak, (d) open coil wire and probably others that I can't think of now.
See post #4, someone disagrees.
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2010, 01:58 PM
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There are two messages here -

1) A torn monovalve diaphragm is a monovalve failure.

2) Full heat all the time is not a typical symptom of a torn monovalve diaphragm.

You can have one situation or both.

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  #10  
Old 10-02-2010, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
That is incorrect. The monovalve is controlled via a switched ground; voltage should be present at one terminal anytime the ignition switch is on.
Perhaps I should have been clearer and stated 'across the terminals' vice 'at the terminals'. When the ground connection is removed, the voltage across the terminals goes to zero. When the CCU re-applies the ground, the voltage goes to 12V. The method of cycling the connection (whether the hot side or the ground side is cycled) has no affect on the voltage seen across the terminals.

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