The old nozzles are DNO SD 240's. I pop tested them before putting the Monarks in. None were streaming or dripped, which is good. A few had off centered spray patterns (not so good). They all popped at around 1800 psi (125 bars). Since I didn't have any thin shims (0.05 mm) to do any balancing, I just used what ever shims that were in the injectors. Most of the shims were 1.8 mm, 1 or 2 were 1.75. I was pleasantly surprised (after the Monarks were in) that they were within spec- 2000 psi on 3 of the injectors and 1950 psi on 2. The Monarks has a wider pattern than the SD240's. Anyone else notice that? That's what i recall anyway. Maybe I'll put the SD240's in the spare bodies I have and pop them again to look at the pattern again.

Anyway, I have more power, no smoke and a much more responsive engine- well worth the money and time spent! Maybe I'll get some 0.05 mm shims to get all 5 injectors set to 2000 psi. Is stacking shims considered undesirable? I think I like one shim (the way it is now) better.

While the injectors were out, I took a compression test (warm engine)

#1 200 psi
#2 325
#3 325
#4 300
#5 325

Why is #1 low? I recall that is always the problem cylinder. Why is that? I am gonna adjust the valves and do another compression test and see what I get.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Sweet, i've got some on order with C Sean Watts. I can't wait till they get in.

I'm really curious how my originals spray after 286K.

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----Adam

1985 300SD 322,000

I did them on my SD, cannot say enough positive things about new nozzles.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Marvel mystery oil down all cylinder and let it is over night. then run the engine and pull the injectors again and retest compression. ill put money on it your numbers change

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Wie lange wird Ihr Auto leben?

Stacking the Shims is no problem. However, put the thickest shim agains the Spring.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks Diesel11. That makes sense. Who sells a quality (properly hardened) 0.05 mm shim? 2 of the injectors are leaking (where they are threaded together). What's the cure for that?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Pm c Sean watts on shims. You can tighten the nuts some more. That works most time for me. I've had a few that wouldn't stop leaking. I hope someone knows something. It's not real bad and doesn't make a huge mess and I don't worry about it. After getting seasoned with wvo the seem to stop leaking eventually.

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What Would Rudolph Do?
1975 300D, 1975 240D, 1985 300SD, 1997 300D, 2005 E320 , 2006 Toyota Prius

What you need is a shim 0.05mm thicker (ie: one size up) than the one that you currently have.

Do not attempt to tighten them beyond 80 Nm. If they still leak at 80 Nm, disassemble the injector and lap the sealing surfaces. Then make sure everything is surgically clean when reassembling. Some light oil (like LPS-1) on the sealing surfaces seems to help.

3 of the 5 shims are 1.8 mm, I don't think there is a 1.85 mm shim. Please describe the lapping procedure. Links with pics would be great!

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

If there wasn't one, I would not have recommended it.

If there was no such thing as a 1.85mm shim, you would be much better off combining two similar-sized shims (ie: 0.95 & 0.90) to achieve the desired thickness.

Lapping is reasonably described (with pictures) here:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=28

If you did not lap the sealing surfaces to begin with and had three injectors that didn't leak, you are one lucky guy.

I agree with the above.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

On the last 5 sets of Injectors I have rebuilt I used a pane of Glass to sub for the Lapping Plate. For the Lapping Compound I got that on eBay from a store that sold stuff for people who like to polish Rocks. I bought 600grit.

The shop I used to work in used 500grit but the rock supplier had 600 so that is what I bought.

One of the members told me that is not a fine enough grit; but from experience I know that the 500 works.

But, you can pick your own grit.

Using Glass has another advantage that you can use water to lube the plate durning the lapping. If you did that on a Steel Lapping Plate you would risk rusting it.

You do not have to get the lapping compound on eBay if there is a local Rock store around.
Valve Lapping Compound is too course for the job.

Not recommended but I have been told by some Old Timers they had used Bonamie (I do not know the spelling) or something like Comet (Ajax is another one) Clenser when they had noting else to use for lapping.
Bonamie is extremely fine fine powdered Clenser. Something like Comet Clenser would have a lot of mixed sizes of grits in it.

I finally got a real lapping plat on eBay but have yet to use it on any Injectors.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

@ Diesel911, your thinking of Bon Ami powder cleaner which according to its MSDS: are the mild abrasives sodium carbonate, calcium carbonate and feldspar.

Stuff works pretty well at cleaning ceramic sinks as well!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bon_Ami

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'84 190D 2.2 OM601.911 144K

I disagree....

I have re-nozzled probably hundreds of injectors over the years and NEVER lapped one of 'em, and Not had any leak either....

The secret is in Cleanliness and how you initially tighten the injector up....

When you're assembling the CLEAN parts, tighten by hand, then slacken slightly, re-tighten slacken, re-tighten.--By Hand....

--Do this 4 or 5 times, then finally re-tighten to the correct torque
--This seats the internal mating faces...

You'll not have any leaks OR possible contamination with abrasives as you would when lapping the faces of components....

BTW, a box containing the full range of shims for Bosch Injectors is available from any good Diesel Injection Suppliers.....

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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

You belong in the Guinness Book of World Records.