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  #1  
Old 10-07-2010, 01:32 PM
funola's Avatar
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617.95* compression

What's the spec for minimum compression on these engines?
Last week I took a warm engine compression test with the HF tester using the injector adapter and reported #1 was 200 psi while the rest was 300 to 325. There was a problem with the adapter and multi connections and allowed leaks. The needle never held steady after cranking.

The good news is that I have finally modified the HF setup to be leak free and very easy to use and the needle stays put! I took a reading on #1 on a cold engine via the glow plug hole and got 260 psi..

I am gonna adjust the valves then do a hot compression test and see what the numbers will be with my "new" compression test set.

I

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  #2  
Old 10-07-2010, 01:36 PM
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The 617.95 service manual lists normal compression as 24-30 bar. Minimum is 15 bar. Maximum difference between individual cylinders is 3 bar. (These figures are with the engine at normal operating temperature.)
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  #3  
Old 10-07-2010, 01:50 PM
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If you're not happy with your second set of measurements - have a look at a leak down tester.

If you don't want to actually go the whole hog and buy / borrow / rent a kit then I still think you can learn quite a bit about the health of your engine by applying low compressed air via the glow plug orifice. Turn the crankshaft until the valves of a cylinder are closed and then listen at the oil filler hole, the dip stick hole, the air inlet and the exhaust pipe. This can indicate which part needs work.

Be careful though that you don't apply so much pressure in the cylinder that you turn the crank. This is essentially the donkey work of a leak down test with out making the measurement...

(I hope I'm not teaching you how to suck eggs funola!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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Last edited by Stretch; 10-07-2010 at 01:51 PM. Reason: More info
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  #4  
Old 10-07-2010, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
If you're not happy with your second set of measurements - have a look at a leak down tester.

If you don't want to actually go the whole hog and buy / borrow / rent a kit then I still think you can learn quite a bit about the health of your engine by applying low compressed air via the glow plug orifice. Turn the crankshaft until the valves of a cylinder are closed and then listen at the oil filler hole, the dip stick hole, the air inlet and the exhaust pipe. This can indicate which part needs work.

Be careful though that you don't apply so much pressure in the cylinder that you turn the crank. This is essentially the donkey work of a leak down test with out making the measurement...

(I hope I'm not teaching you how to suck eggs funola!)
I have read about the leak down test but have never done one myself. I should do one just for the experience.

Adjusted the valves today, #1 was a little tight but not too bad. Last time they were adjusted was about 5000 miles ago. Idle is a bit smoother. The new nozzles and the valve adjustment really made a substantial difference in power. I think there's more to go with a timing check/ adjustment.
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83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #5  
Old 10-10-2010, 06:55 PM
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I got a cheap and cheerful kit like this

http://www.tools.vocor.nl/N_frame.html?http://www.tools.vocor.nl/Auto-gereedschap-N_grp_59-1.html

Just look at the picture and ignore the Dutch! I guess you could get one where you are for about 50 USD. You need a compressor as well.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 10-10-2010, 07:19 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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My old book says minimum 220 psi cold for reliable starting.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #7  
Old 10-11-2010, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I got a cheap and cheerful kit like this

http://www.tools.vocor.nl/N_frame.html?http://www.tools.vocor.nl/Auto-gereedschap-N_grp_59-1.html

Just look at the picture and ignore the Dutch! I guess you could get one where you are for about 50 USD. You need a compressor as well.
This pic is from your link. It looks just like the Harbor Freight leakage tester I have. There's a problem with mine though, the gauge is stuck right out of the box so it is useless until I get another gauge.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #8  
Old 10-11-2010, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
This pic is from your link. It looks just like the Harbor Freight leakage tester I have. There's a problem with mine though, the gauge is stuck right out of the box so it is useless until I get another gauge...
Well I did state it was cheap - I would however expect it to work at least the once though! Can't you take it back / send it back?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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