So I needed to replace the o-rings in the fuel lift pump located on the side of the IP (on my '95) - easy enough. However, I saw there is also a rebuild kit that includes these valves. So, I figured, while I'm in there . . .

Has anyone ever replaced these? They seem to be pressed in and, in the process of trying to remove one, I damaged the housing it was pressed into.

The first pic shows where the two valves are located. The second pic shows what the valve looks like. The piece I have damaged is the brass-colored screw-in fuel line fitting on top in the first picture. The valve appeared to be just pressed up into the bottom of that fitting. So I thought could just slide a punch down through and knock it out. Well, it came out in a bunch of little pieces, except for the outter ring which is still stuck inside a lipped groove. I don't understand how these are supposed to come out or go back in. Why make a replacement kit if the originals aren't servicable? What am I missing here - anyone else ever attempted this?

Attached Thumbnails

   

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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

I would like to see a pic of the Ring that is left inside end of it.

Having never seen one is hard do visualize.

Where I used to work my Boss had taken an Allen Wrench; cut it short and made sort of a hook.

He or when I would use it the end with no hooke was mounted in the Vice and you hooked stuff and pulled or hit the housing with a hard Plastic Hammer.

If you have access to a Dremel tool you could grind partway through the ring of the Valve in several places. That would relieve the outward tension and you would be able to pry it out with a Screwdriver.

This is something I have done before to remove bushings I was not going to use again but do not know if there is room to do so. If you have a Tap that will thread into the Ring but not the fitting. Ounce the ring is threaded you screw in a Bolt. You might be able to screw the Bolt in and pull the Ring out or you could mount the Bolt Head in a Vice and Pull on the Fitting to pull the Ring out.

A small inside Bearing Puller might work but without seeing it I cannot say for sure; but it expands inside and you have a small slide Hammer to rap it out.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thank you very much for your input.

No problem. I have attached some additional picture below. I did manage to get the remaining outer ring of the valve out - I used a small drill bit to break through the ring, relieving the tension as you pointed out, and then pulling the rest out with needle-nose pliers. So, I don't have a picture with the outer ring still in there, but you'll get the idea from the picture.

A good idea and might work here - not sure though because, as you will see, it looks to me like the housing is actually pressed around the valve.


All good info. Take a look at the pics and let me know what you think.

Attached Thumbnails

       

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

Yes, the pics explain everthing clearly.
There is 2 possible ways to deal with it I can think of.

You could keep pinching the rolled crimped with a Pliers until the to flatten it out until it is flattend out enough to insert The New Valve and bend the crimp back over the Valve

But, if it was mine I would File or use m Belt sander and remove enough ot the crimped area to get the Valve in.
I would carefully JB Weld the edge of the valve into the Fitting or even Silicone Sealant may work.
I think either would keep the Valve in place.

Well I learned a lot from your adventure and pics!

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yeah, me too! Funny, going into this I was sure changing out the o-rings and copper crush washers on the IP would be the big job and resealing the feed pump would be no big deal - complete opposite! The delivery valves are really no big deal, this on the other hand . . .

I think the take away here is DO NOT bother with these valves unless you have reason to believe they are bad for some reason. Having never done this, I wasn't sure if there was some type of seal internal to the valves that could cause a problem - not so. So to anyone who ever takes this style feed pump apart, just inspect the valves, if the little spring is still holding the valve closed, you probably good and should just leave them alone. I really don't think I am going to mess with the other one, although I am curiuos aobut how it fits into its housing . . .

I think I will probably go the route of grinding down the lip and then using JB weld to secure in place.

Once I get it all done, I'l try to throw together a more complete DIY on this.

Thanks again!

__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman

At least one of our Members with the same style of Fuel Supply Pump claimed that the Tiny O-ring that Seals the Push Rod was the source of his Oil Consumption.
He felt the Oil from inside of the Fuel Injection Pump was gettend sucked past the O-ring and mixing with the Fuel and ending up burned in the Engine.

I do not recall if he rebuilt or replaced the Fuel Supply Pump but; said that it fixed the problem.
Besides the Oil consumpiton issue the other symptom is that his Fuel was getting grey colored from the Engine Oil.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel