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#16
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The car should always be properly aligned after doing anything involving steering components, and often even suspension components. Calling it "good enough" is very redneck.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#17
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This is a tough call. Good arguements on both sides. Only the OP can look at his parts with his own eyes, so I say do what seems sensible to you. I have done the redneck thing too of counting threads and matching the new with the old and it worked ok. If the toe is out you can feel it in how the car drives. darty. too much toe in and you can see feathering on the tires in short order, but an alignment is only 70 so that is not a bad deal either.
Sorry not to give any good guidance.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#18
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If you understand alignment and the signs of excessive toe-in and of toe-out, I see no issue with measuring the distance between a mark on the tie-rod and the center of the stud, matching that. I've done it many times, and I usually do my own alignments much like pretty much any serious racer, because the factory specs are for regular driving and regular handling with stock tire/wheel sizes and offsets.
One bad ball-joint or one bad tie-rod end does not predict another, any more than a bad wheel bearing on one side predicts failure of the other (example: my '91 300TE 4matic had a bad rear-wheel bearing at 45,000 miles, never another sold at 119,000, ... my '85 Audi quattro had one bad rear wheel bearing at ~60,000 miles, never another in over 200,000 miles). Check with two people, rocking the steering with weight on the front wheels, watch for any play. If no play and the boots are supple, you're fine.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#19
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OK, you've got two mechanic experts agreeing, that only changing the bad one, if the good one is supple and not worn at all. one of which has even actually seen the tie rod ends in person...
lemme know when you wanna do the LCA"s, I'll bring my stuff. or you can bring it to my yard, and we'll press and go!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#20
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I'm ready for LCAs John, ... come on over!
I'd like to use '94 A-arms if I could, but haven't yet found out why they are different from the '87 or whether they change anything (have a new pair collecting dust).
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
#21
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Quote:
can you measure all the dimensions of the 94 arms and see if there is any dimensions that don't jibe? I'll have the 93 in my yard control arm free soon, and would be happy to measure them for comparison...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#22
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I know you were.
I need to take proper measurements, will have to remove an '87 arm to compare properly (or get one from my Michigan stash this weekend).
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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