Totalled the W123, should I get a 98/99 E300D or a 2005/2006 CDI? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

largelybored · #1 10-24-2010, 10:59 PM

See update on page 3

A nice young fellow pulled a left turn infront of me and I wasn't able to stop in the 60 feet of distance he gave me. I hit him at about 50mph. I think his passenger spent a few days in the hospital.

His car was a 2002 4 door Civic.

My 83 300D with 285k is a total loss. I got a small fracture of the kneecap, plus the usual injured wrists and sternum. Luckily no whiplash.

Not sure what they'll give me for it, its got newish custom 2 tone interior and about $3000 in stereo gear. Component speakers in the doors, subwoofer that takes up the entire trunk, dynamat in the trunk, etc. (2x previous owner installed it) 3 Ferrad of capacitors in the trunk. (I don't know what that means)

Not sure how the whole personal injury thing works, and how much I'll get for the car and pain and suffering or whatever they call it...

I recently moved 40 miles from work vs the old 9 miles. My 300D got about 24mpg with spirited driving.

Although I love the W123, I'd like to get something with better MPG and power. I've been thinking about the 98/99 E300D which are about 6-8K depending on condition/miles. Just the other day I saw an ad for a 2006 E320 CDI with 170k miles for $15k.

My receding hairline wants the E320 CDI but I don't know too much about it nor the 98/99 E300D.

I have a 300SDL but its slated for getting ratted out. She wasn't a looker when I got her and I'm not going to restore her. I hope to have some fun with it and find a better example later on. I averaged about 26mpg with spirited driving in the SDL.

Can anyone offer some background on the 98/99 E300D? I believe 98 was the first year with the turbo. Also the 2005/2006 E320 CDI?

I remember test driving a new 2005 E320CDI and the steering felt weird, like it didn't have speed sensitive steering. Did they fix that in the 2006?

Are both the 2005 and 2006 inline 6es that run on LSD vs ULSD?

My indy Mercedes mechanic (Austin ********) says the 2005+ diesels are problematic and the E300D is pretty good.

Any thoughts/experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

-L

compu_85 · #2 10-24-2010, 11:25 PM

The newer car will have computer systems that will most likely need the dealer if repairs are called for, though aftermarket scan tools are continuously improving.

If you could afford the newer car, including its service, I would go for it.

-Jason

Biodiesel300TD · #3 10-24-2010, 11:34 PM

Sorry to see a 123 go down. Most importantly I'm glad you came out with minor injuries. The car looks pretty bad. I personally wouldn't buy a newer MB. I like the old ones way better. If you're shooting for milage you could look some of the 190D's. Can't remember which one get the great milage though.

TylerH860 · #4 10-24-2010, 11:38 PM

Yikes! I remember that car from one of the Mt. Vernon GTGs. Shame.

Skid Row Joe · #5 10-24-2010, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by largelybored

A nice young fellow pulled a left turn infront of me and I wasn't able to stop in the 60 feet of distance he gave me. I hit him at about 50mph. I think his passenger spent a few days in the hospital.

His car was a 2002 4 door Civic.

My 83 300D with 285k is a total loss. I got a small fracture of the kneecap, plus the usual injured wrists and sternum. Luckily no whiplash.

Not sure what they'll give me for it, its got newish custom 2 tone interior and about $3000 in stereo gear. Component speakers in the doors, subwoofer that takes up the entire trunk, dynamat in the trunk, etc. (2x previous owner installed it) 3 Ferrad of capacitors in the trunk. (I don't know what that means)

Not sure how the whole personal injury thing works, and how much I'll get for the car and pain and suffering or whatever they call it...

I recently moved 40 miles from work vs the old 9 miles. My 300D got about 24mpg with spirited driving.

Although I love the W123, I'd like to get something with better MPG and power. I've been thinking about the 98/99 E300D which are about 6-8K depending on condition/miles. Just the other day I saw an ad for a 2006 E320 CDI with 170k miles for $15k.

My receding hairline wants the E320 CDI but I don't know too much about it nor the 98/99 E300D.

I have a 300SDL but its slated for getting ratted out. She wasn't a looker when I got her and I'm not going to restore her. I hope to have some fun with it and find a better example later on. I averaged about 26mpg with spirited driving in the SDL.

Can anyone offer some background on the 98/99 E300D? I believe 98 was the first year with the turbo. Also the 2005/2006 E320 CDI?

I remember test driving a new 2005 E320CDI and the steering felt weird, like it didn't have speed sensitive steering. Did they fix that in the 2006?

Are both the 2005 and 2006 inline 6es that run on LSD vs ULSD?

My indy Mercedes mechanic (Austin ********) says the 2005+ diesels are problematic and the E300D is pretty good.

Any thoughts/experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

-L

There's no question. I'd get a 2006 E320 CDI with under 100K miles for about $20K. If I didn't have that much cash? I wouldn't buy any car I could not pay cash for. But that's just me.

The "'06 CDI w/170K miles for $15K" is waaaay overpriced.

Aquaticedge · #6 10-25-2010, 12:28 AM

Ouch... I wish I had one of these about 5 years ago... Someone hit me with one of the tank built caravans and hit my Chev corsica. Nearly died that day.

bustedbenz · #7 10-25-2010, 12:36 AM

I'd go with the 98-99 e300, myself. Older, slightly less electronic, better looking in my personal opinion, and a more tried-and-true engine design with less complications. Also, older = more forum experience, more indy mechanic experience, and more aftermarket parts solutions, leading to more accessible repairs and less expensive parts. Win all the way around as long as you don't get one with the spring perch issue.

t walgamuth · #8 10-25-2010, 05:36 AM

If I were looking at a newer benz I like the non turbo ...I think it was about 95? ...simpler to work on I expect and pretty good fuel economy.

Hit Man X · #9 10-25-2010, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

There's no question. I'd get a 2006 E320 CDI with under 100K miles for about $20K. If I didn't have that much cash? I wouldn't buy any car I could not pay cash for. But that's just me.

The "'06 CDI w/170K miles for $15K" is waaaay overpriced.

This.

andrewjtx · #10 10-25-2010, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by largelybored

Luckily no whiplash.

Bull%^&

Of course you have whiplash. And it can take days to feel the effects and years to correct if you don't see someone now.

I suggest seeing a Chiropractor ASAP. PM me if you want a good reference here in Austin.

Also, where did the accident happen? We have a few notorious intersections around Austin. Always curious to see where it happened. Maybe we can leave a front grill painted white at the spot. Kind of like what they do for killed cyclists...

The biggest thing to remember with insurance companies is start high and let them talk you down. They'll low ball you off the bat and you just have to keep saying NO.

MBeige · #11 10-25-2010, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewjtx

Bull%^&

Of course you have whiplash. And it can take days to feel the effects and years to correct if you don't see someone now.

I suggest seeing a Chiropractor ASAP. PM me if you want a good reference here in Austin.

Also, where did the accident happen? We have a few notorious intersections around Austin. Always curious to see where it happened. Maybe we can leave a front grill painted white at the spot. Kind of like what they do for killed cyclists...

The biggest thing to remember with insurance companies is start high and let them talk you down. They'll low ball you off the bat and you just have to keep saying NO.

Don't go to a chiropractor, get a licensed Physical Therapist.

Sorry to hear what happened. I hope all goes smoothly with your recovery as well as finding a replacement for your car.

babymog · #12 10-25-2010, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquaticedge

<>Someone hit me with one of the tank built caravans and hit my Chev corsica. Nearly died that day.

Tank built caravans? Seriously? I can't think of many vehicles more poorly built, crush easier, and more (IMO) dangerous to passengers, ... I guess maybe a Corsica?

Skid Row Joe · #13 10-25-2010, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bustedbenz

I'd go with the 98-99 e300, myself. Older, slightly less electronic, better looking in my personal opinion, and a more tried-and-true engine design with less complications. Also, older = more forum experience, more indy mechanic experience, and more aftermarket parts solutions, leading to more accessible repairs and less expensive parts. Win all the way around as long as you don't get one with the spring perch issue.

I would too, versus ANY of the older stuff - unless I was INTO the older stuff.

The overiding consideration is what the OP wants, mated to what the OP wants to or can spend on a car. I'm old-fashioned, but I wouldn't buy anything I couldn't pay cash for - but I would not necessarily jump at the first car unless it fit the bill to a "T." Chances are the opposing insurance company will pay for a rental car for the OP for the next few weeks while he is making up his mind.

The '98-'99 ETD would be an outrageously improved upgrade from a W123-4 in numerous ways. Once you've driven one and get the thrill of it's performance AND economy, you'll likely never go back to the snails pace of any diesel pre-'98.

If he can swing it financially, the CDI would be the way to go I certainly would. Because over time, the CDIs and Bluetec are the better plays looong term going forward, versus the ETDs of '98-'99. Just my expert opinion there.....

Rust is not an issue (anytime soon) in Austin, Texas, where the OP is located.

odie · #14 10-25-2010, 04:34 PM

I would vote non CDI. I just like a simpler car.

bustedbenz · #15 10-25-2010, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

I would too, versus ANY of the older stuff - unless I was INTO the older stuff.

The overiding consideration is what the OP wants, mated to what the OP wants to or can spend on a car. I'm old-fashioned, but I wouldn't buy anything I couldn't pay cash for - but I would not necessarily jump at the first car unless it fit the bill to a "T." Chances are the opposing insurance company will pay for a rental car for the OP for the next few weeks while he is making up his mind.

The '98-'99 ETD would be an outrageously improved upgrade from a W123-4 in numerous ways. Once you've driven one and get the thrill of it's performance AND economy, you'll likely never go back to the snails pace of any diesel pre-'98.

If he can swing it financially, the CDI would be the way to go I certainly would. Because over time, the CDIs and Bluetec are the better plays looong term going forward, versus the ETDs of '98-'99. Just my expert opinion there.....

Rust is not an issue (anytime soon) in Austin, Texas, where the OP is located.

I understand what you're saying. I really do. But I don't think I'll *ever* regard a Bluetec as a good long-term move. Anything that will electronically refuse to let me start it unless I refill their silly little emissions fluid tank... just doesn't sound "reliable" to me. I want a car that will start when I have to flee my home for whatever the next natural disaster is (I'm dramatizing here because I believe in being *READY* for the worst case even though I don't live in constant fear of it) even if I haven't changed its little urea fluid tank on time.

That's why the 3 I own are all 80's models. They may be older and slower, but I know that as long as there's current available from the battery and fuel/fluids in the thing, they're PROBABLY going to start every time I turn the key, or else be fixable without a computer problem when they do go down. It's all preferences. So I guess I'm just saying two things, 1) that I'm among those who are "into" the older stuff for those reasons, and 2) Even if CDI is the next best long-term gamble, I'm not ready to give Bluetec *with* urea injection that much credit yet. I understand from a previous thread debate that not ALL Blue-tec labeled Benzes actually use urea systems, so in my post, the comments about Bluetec assume that urea IS used.