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  #16  
Old 11-03-2010, 04:25 AM
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oil cooler lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by cirrusman View Post
This was done by the PO, apparently not wanting to deal with the lifting of the engine and all that when doing the lines... It has worked fine for me ever since I bought the car with no leaks, and when I do get leaks I only have to buy a bit of hose and clamp it back in... I'd like to hear your opinions on what do you think the pros and cons of this rig are.
Gentlemen,

I, too, fixed the oil cooler lines by using hoses and clamps. Your hoses looks a little squishy and leaky. The hose I bought was very robust and functional @200F. I used high quality stainless worm clams.

The now bare oil hose connections on the front crossmember have a mild increase in diameter a couple inches from the end. Once I forced the new hose over the increase and clamped it down, I was certain that the hose would not "blow" off. In 10k miles there has been not even a drip.

The hose&clamp repair is worth looking into for even the most die hard purist. The reason? The aluminum fittings on the oil cooler strip easily and turn a hard job into a parts-chasing nightmare. Sure, OEM hoses are the best way to go, but I stand by the soundness of the hose&clamp repair.

Joe Marroso

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  #17  
Old 02-05-2011, 12:28 PM
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Well, the time has come for me to replace those hoses. I'm getting a pretty steady leak now from the top hose and it will only get worse. My question is for those of you who have done this - or a similar arrangement - is what kind of hose to get and where. I already checked Autozone and Checker's and the thickest hose they carry will blow up in a day or two... any suggestions? Thanks!
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1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
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2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT
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  #18  
Old 02-05-2011, 12:34 PM
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When I replaced the hoses on the power steering system on my Bluebird Wanderlodge I used hose from a hydraulic hose supplier. I believe it was called Aeroquip or something like that. High temperature/pressure hose.
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1985 300TD 185k+
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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #19  
Old 02-05-2011, 04:17 PM
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Lots of threads on this...

Given how it is set up, IMO you're in a GREAT position.

Next oil change I'd pull the rubber, then carefully remove the metal parts. Heavily dose with penetrating oil first, long before.

Once removed, take to a hydraulic shop and get them to make some proper ends from the metal parts, with removable hose on them.

Then just reattach piece by piece... Easy.
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Current Diesels:
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1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
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  #20  
Old 02-05-2011, 11:19 PM
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We did removable hydraulic hoses on one of ours too:



MEGA hoses:

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  #21  
Old 02-05-2011, 11:57 PM
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When I did mine I used T-bar clamps. Found them to be much better than the standard worm style. Hasn't leaked a drop since I did it.
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  #22  
Old 02-06-2011, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dude99 View Post
When I did mine I used T-bar clamps. Found them to be much better than the standard worm style. Hasn't leaked a drop since I did it.
Who made them and where did you get them?
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  #23  
Old 02-06-2011, 12:09 AM
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Not sure who made them, I didn't look truth be told. I picked them up at my local Lordco when I bought the hose. Used 2 on each end. Probably over kill but wanted to play it safe.
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  #24  
Old 02-06-2011, 08:30 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dropnosky View Post
check out what the PO did on mine. Removable hydraulic hoses, I was extremely pleased to see this.
Now that looks nice!
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  #25  
Old 02-06-2011, 02:28 PM
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I'm doing this as a quick fix right now but I'd really like to do the hydraulic hose fix as a more permanent thing once I move in our new house and it's time to do it again. It beats the original hoses IMHO.
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1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT
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  #26  
Old 02-09-2011, 11:53 AM
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id would either go oem or have new ones made at a machine shop. my po rigged mine similar to yours, it was on my agenda to change but then they blew in the driveway. to each is own, but i wouldnt have anything that could break easily
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  #27  
Old 02-09-2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Marroso View Post
Gentlemen,

I, too, fixed the oil cooler lines by using hoses and clamps. Your hoses looks a little squishy and leaky. The hose I bought was very robust and functional @200F. I used high quality stainless worm clams.

The now bare oil hose connections on the front crossmember have a mild increase in diameter a couple inches from the end. Once I forced the new hose over the increase and clamped it down, I was certain that the hose would not "blow" off. In 10k miles there has been not even a drip.

The hose&clamp repair is worth looking into for even the most die hard purist. The reason? The aluminum fittings on the oil cooler strip easily and turn a hard job into a parts-chasing nightmare. Sure, OEM hoses are the best way to go, but I stand by the soundness of the hose&clamp repair.

Joe Marroso
The hose temperature raiting should be at least 400 degrees to be safe. Two hundred degrees is far too low. With any other method than factory hoses and they should not be too old. It is my opinion that a low oil pressure alarm should be installed. It is just too easy to miss the oil gauge falling and time can be very limited until serious damage is done on a failure.
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  #28  
Old 02-09-2011, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
We did removable hydraulic hoses on one of ours too:



MEGA hoses:

This is what I want. I have an excellent hose/hydraulic shop locally but if it's metric, they won't touch it. No parts. They offered to solder a standard fitting on to the hard lines and run standard size between them. I passed. Guess it's time to hit Google and look for a new shop.

Does anybody know the thread pattern and size for the cooler lines?
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  #29  
Old 02-09-2011, 10:08 PM
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I found my lower oil line coming off the other day leaking as well.

This is easy I figure..... I deal with hydraulics all day I liked pawoSD's
I'm going to make my own.

Drill out #10 jic plugs.. hell there to small OK drill out #12 plugs
silver solder the ends to the existing line make up hoses.

Oh hell standard hydraulic line is good for only 212 degrees.......Hey hydraulic guy do you have any high heat?
You will have to order it? OK wait I have a call.....trucks broke ,sure I'll be out there in a few.
Hydraulic guy I will get back to you.
(Driving to job contemplating oil lines )

Hey look a Mercedes dealer!
Hey Mr parts man do you have any oil cooler lines for a 300SD...You do.
Here use this credit card (wife sees the bills didn't hurt a bit....Yet )
Simplest lines I ever made.

Problem solved!! Mercedes mans happy I'm happy!
I think to myself these damn thing should outlast me now!
Now to install them.

These are easy to install right??
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  #30  
Old 02-09-2011, 11:40 PM
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The Goodyear InstaGrip that I use has a temp rating; Temperature: -40F to +200F
and I have had no signs of Hose deterioration.
They have been on the Engine at least 3 years.

http://www.fluidlinecomponents.com/goodyear_economy_push.htm

I had ordered 1/2 inch Hose and found out it would not fit. While I was waiting for the 5/8 hose to arrive I installed a piece of extra thick Heater Hose and drove with that for about 2 weeks with no ill effects.
However, I am sure the Heater Hose would get eaten up eventually because it is not formulated for hot Oil going through it.

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