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  #31  
Old 02-10-2011, 12:14 AM
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I saw on one of the 4x4 forums where a guy welded AN fittings on to the oil cooler and to the filter housing. He then ran the lines up onto the finder and over to the oil cooler.

I just bought new factory lines.... But if I were to go to the trouble to re-engineer it, I think I'd use and AN fitting.
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  #32  
Old 02-10-2011, 12:18 PM
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I'm of the mind that repair of this is not difficult. the collar can easily be ground off, the problem is that the hose is a size that's not easy to find. it's around 15mm ID, and NAPA does not carry that size in oil pressure hose. It can be ordered though.
I'd like to find a hose clamp similar to what's mentioned in the top of the thread. another style would be a finger/collar clamp... I'll cogitate on the issue... because those steel lines are annoying to say the least to install... I did it without lifting the engine, but had to pull the A/C boss to do it.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #33  
Old 02-10-2011, 02:30 PM
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I agree that it's not difficult. However, if we're all in agreement that the new replacement lines aren't going to hold up 25+ years like the old ones, why not take the opportunity to make the next repair easier, faster, cleaner, and cheaper?
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  #34  
Old 02-10-2011, 02:37 PM
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My new hoses are VERY THIN rubber. I find it extremely difficult to believe they will last over 5 years. I guess I'll find out.
but I am looking for a source of decent 15mm HOT Oil rated hose. good for 250PSI minimum. and a cool simple hose clamp method.
in plumbing, we use a nohub, it's a rubber hose with a metal sleeve on it, with a pair of hose clamps. the sleeve protects the rubber surface, and reinforces the joint. it's good for 100psi... on a 4" fitting. I'm sure a 3/4" nohub sleeve would fit on the hose...
whatdo you all think?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #35  
Old 02-10-2011, 09:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
My new hoses are VERY THIN rubber. I find it extremely difficult to believe they will last over 5 years. I guess I'll find out.
but I am looking for a source of decent 15mm HOT Oil rated hose. good for 250PSI minimum. and a cool simple hose clamp method.
in plumbing, we use a nohub, it's a rubber hose with a metal sleeve on it, with a pair of hose clamps. the sleeve protects the rubber surface, and reinforces the joint. it's good for 100psi... on a 4" fitting. I'm sure a 3/4" nohub sleeve would fit on the hose...
whatdo you all think?
I am not sure I am following the Plumbing Clamp part.
The Hubless Clamps I have seen have a pair of Worm Gear Hose Clamps around them. People believe that the Worm Gear type Hose Clamp are a the weak link in the set up.
Overtime what happens to the Hubless Clamp Sleeve when it gets Oil or Fuel on them?
I guess the only way to find out is to try it.
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  #36  
Old 02-10-2011, 09:53 PM
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I'm talking about removing the stainless steel cover from the rubber nohub coupling. using the stainless steel sleeve with it's stainless steel worm gears to maintain even pressure on the entire joint. it's pointless to think about if I can't find any 250PSI rubber hose to replace the bad hose with anyway though... perhaps aeroquip will have some...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #37  
Old 02-11-2011, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I'm talking about removing the stainless steel cover from the rubber nohub coupling. using the stainless steel sleeve with it's stainless steel worm gears to maintain even pressure on the entire joint. it's pointless to think about if I can't find any 250PSI rubber hose to replace the bad hose with anyway though... perhaps aeroquip will have some...
On my new lines it shows Contitech hose made by Continental .

The hose part# is a OLNT - 15x4 (15mm ID. )
The description is Standard hose for commercial vehicle
Its rated at Low pressure (? no psi rating? ) -40*c to 150*c (-40*f to 300*f)


Here's the link to their page:
http://conti-tech.de/pages/produkte/schlauchleitungen/oel-hydraulik/progr_schlaeuche_en.html

My upper hose portion is 12"
The lower is 14 1/2"
Three foot should be all you need to make both hoses.

The closest I found with Aeroquip and Parker was 5/8 High heat.
There are several types available for Trans and oil cooler applications.


The high heat and flexibility is the key to it.
The inner layer will cook inside regular hose if its exposed to its max temp
for extended periods of time.

This causes the hose to become brittle and cracks form on the inner layer.
The outside remains unaffected.
(Your outside handles the environment.
Your inside deals with the fluid type.)

If its crimped you will get leaks at the crimp,
and if clamped you'll see it coming from under the clamp.
No amount of tightening on the clamp will help.
Worst case you see blistering of the cover.

I was making PTO pressure lines from regular hydraulic line on Allison autos.
The most I got out of them is 3 years. They then start leaking.
When I took them off and bent them it sounded like twigs snapping.
The outside looked fine though.

The flexibility part according to the hose web site is to isolate the coolers.
preventing the coolers from fracturing.
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86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
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  #38  
Old 02-11-2011, 11:29 AM
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Does anyone know what the male end on the steel line is?

Ive been searching everywhere.
The closest I can get is JIS type fittings.

But coming from Germany it should be a DIN style.
If it is DIN it can either be 30* or 60* inverted flare.
The problem I have is no one..... and I do mean no one local has one to try.

I get the same reply everywhere
"don't even bring that oddball metric ..THING.. in here and expect me to match it".

Is it the same across the pond ?
"don't bring that American #$*!!@ in here.............. "


It sure would make it easier for hoses as sirNik said , but without having to make adapters.
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86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide
81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor
83 300SD 212,000 parts car
83 300SD 147,000

91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000
66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000
95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000
03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes
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  #39  
Old 02-13-2011, 01:34 PM
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Well, the job is done. It was really easier said than done though. Those old hoses were really tough to get out, but finally I just made a longitudinal cut on each end (this takes a bit of carefulness since the pipes could get damaged if one's not careful, but takes some force too because those are really tough hoses). I got a 300 PSI rated hose with flame resistant cover. Don't remember the brand and it's not clear from the hose itself, but looks and feels tough enough. Made in the U.S of A too, no cheap chinese noodles here. I took it around the mountains on some good steep climbs to test it and the hoses and pipes were clean after that. Here's pics of the end result:
Attached Thumbnails
Oil cooler lines rig.-110212_154241.jpg   Oil cooler lines rig.-110212_154305.jpg   Oil cooler lines rig.-110212_154330.jpg   Oil cooler lines rig.-110212_154346.jpg   Oil cooler lines rig.-110212_154426.jpg  

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1988 Toyota Pickup (The little cargo hauler)
1965 Ford F100 (The big cargo hauler)
2004 Subaru Outback (Wife's ride)


Gone:
1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT - Wrapped it around a light pole, racing days are over...
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  #40  
Old 02-13-2011, 01:41 PM
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Hose sounds like good stuff, id just want a superior connection system... Imo hose clamps aren't to be trusted. Loose a hose connection and chances are the engine is toast...
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  #41  
Old 02-13-2011, 01:47 PM
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I'm sure that will hold for a bit, but I don't like the idea of screw clamps contacting high pressure rubber... I'd like a sleeve of stainless inside the clamps myself...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #42  
Old 02-13-2011, 01:51 PM
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Just add Diesel.
 
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I'll keep a close look on the whole rig for the next 3-4 weeks or so and if I notice any changes I'll report here.
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~cirrusman

1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"





1988 Toyota Pickup (The little cargo hauler)
1965 Ford F100 (The big cargo hauler)
2004 Subaru Outback (Wife's ride)


Gone:
1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT - Wrapped it around a light pole, racing days are over...
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  #43  
Old 02-14-2011, 06:59 AM
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you should reverse one of those hose clamps, so the weakest part of the clamping pressure does not sit in the same place for both of them and create a straight shot for a leak later on.
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  #44  
Old 02-14-2011, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cirrusman View Post
Well, the job is done. It was really easier said than done though. Those old hoses were really tough to get out, but finally I just made a longitudinal cut on each end (this takes a bit of carefulness since the pipes could get damaged if one's not careful, but takes some force too because those are really tough hoses). I got a 300 PSI rated hose with flame resistant cover. Don't remember the brand and it's not clear from the hose itself, but looks and feels tough enough. Made in the U.S of A too, no cheap chinese noodles here. I took it around the mountains on some good steep climbs to test it and the hoses and pipes were clean after that. Here's pics of the end result:
Next time, use a torch on the hose and barb to soften it first- no scoring necessary, hose will pull off with 2 fingers. Ditto on spacing the 2 hose clamp nuts 180 deg apart, better yet, replace one of them with a constant tension spring clamp
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  #45  
Old 02-14-2011, 08:49 AM
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What is the OD? Stainless T clamps are available all over the place.
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