Oil cooler lines rig. - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

cirrusman · #46 02-14-2011, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Next time, use a torch on the hose and barb to soften it first- no scoring necessary, hose will pull off with 2 fingers. Ditto on spacing the 2 hose clamp nuts 180 deg apart, better yet, replace one of them with a constant tension spring clamp

LOL! Yeah, I should've thought of that... duh...

About the clamps, I'll just let them stay like that for the time being and see if I notice anything going on before I make any modifications... I have hose to spare at any rate and I'll get constant tension clamps if these don't work as expected.

MTUpower · #47 09-15-2011, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cirrusman

Well, the job is done. It was really easier said than done though. Those old hoses were really tough to get out, but finally I just made a longitudinal cut on each end (this takes a bit of carefulness since the pipes could get damaged if one's not careful, but takes some force too because those are really tough hoses). I got a 300 PSI rated hose with flame resistant cover. Don't remember the brand and it's not clear from the hose itself, but looks and feels tough enough. Made in the U.S of A too, no cheap chinese noodles here. I took it around the mountains on some good steep climbs to test it and the hoses and pipes were clean after that. Here's pics of the end result:

Please note folks that all worm drive clamps should be doubled- as they are, but also that one clamp and the other should not be aligned the same- they should be faced one on one side and one on the other. If you flipped one upside down and re-installed that would be the proper method.

Edit- that was noted in post #43

JHZR2 · #48 09-15-2011, 11:18 PM

Maybe worm clamps that way are OK, but seriously, unless this is a parking lot fix far away from home, why not take them to a hydraulic shop and get something welded on that is right???

I can understand not wanting to buy new OE ones for a few hundred dollars, but I doubt that a good Parker or other hydraulic shop would have trouble making some good lines on the cheap, using the old metal ends... with a real metal-hose connection that is servicable and robust.

whunter · #49 09-16-2011, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower

Please note folks that all worm drive clamps should be doubled- as they are, but also that one clamp and the other should not be aligned the same- they should be faced one on one side and one on the other. If you flipped one upside down and re-installed that would be the proper method.

Edit- that was noted in post #43

I disagree with using hose clamps, except as an emergency (momentary) measure.

The hose needs a proper ferrule compressed fitting.
EXAMPLE:
http://www.google.com/search?q=hose+ferrule&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1280&bih=823

Or proper hydraulic hoses/fittings.
EXAMPLE:
Inexpensive Oil Cooler Solution

Inexpensive Oil Cooler Solution

Not MB, however it is another good example of what type of hose/clamping to use.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/296603-1972-911t-external-carrera-oil-cooler-install.html

As some members have learned the hard way, worm clamp FAILURE on these lines is a 99.99% guarantee of junking the engine.

charmalu · #50 09-17-2011, 02:51 AM

Any one use the Parker Push Lok Hose?

Charlie

compress ignite · #51 09-17-2011, 05:00 AM

Eaton/Aeroquip

www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/ProductsbyName/Aeroquip/index.htm

The -10 (5/8") size will be out this coming Spring, MAYBE as early as January.

You want to cut this with a Dremel Type Wheel (For a Clean Cut,after Taping.)
in anticipation of the Re-Usable Self Install SS Fittings.

[Earls offers the fittings in Aluminum]

(Yes,of sayers of Gloom; an adapter might be necessary between the MB fittings
on the Cooler and the Aeroquip ones)

Diesel911 · #52 09-17-2011, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

Any one use the Parker Push Lok Hose?

Charlie

About a Month ago ForcedInduction posted in someone’s thread and he said he used Parker Hose. The Details would be there.
I used Goodyear Push Lock Hose over the Old Hose Fittings. The problem with using the stock Fittings is that the first Barb is larger than the other 2 Barbs.

5/8" ID Hose slides over the first Barb with a sight tension on it but is loose on the other 2 Barbs. I used Double Clamps on mine and it has been over 3 years in uses.

The only issue I have had is I found one of the Hose Connections wet. I re-tightened the Clamps on that connection and that took care of it. That happen about 1.5 years ago.

1/2"ID Hose would not fit over the first Barb. And, the Goodyear Hose is very in-elastic.

It could be that the Parker Slip Lock Hose is more elastic but I have not had my Hands on any to check that out.

Someone made a setup that used the real Slip Lock Fittings (I believe they were brazed to the original Hose Fittings) and said they did not use any clamps at all. He said if you use the proper barbed Fittings made for the job the Hose is supposed to work with out the clamps.

The Push Lock Hose seems entirely adequate for the job and if you use clamps is cheap and easy to replace.
In 3 years of use the Hose looks the same as it did when I installed it.

When I first did the job I ordered 1/2" OD Goodyear Hose thinking it would stretch and I had not taken apart the old Hose yet.
When I found out the 1/2" hose was not going to stretch over the end Barb I bought a section of heavy Duty Heater Hose and installed that with Clamps.
I drove the Car like that; local trips only for about a week and 1/2 till the 5/8" hose arrived.
I had no issues at all with the Heater Hose. But, I guess over time heat and pressure would have casued it to fail.