Thanks a lot. I will give that a try.

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1985 300D Turbo CA Fed 223K

Two of the hooks and the end-clip had snapped off the right-side plastic strip embedded in my '82 240D rear bumper rubber. A PO had tried to glue it, but it came loose anyway and looked like crap. I ground the jagged plastic stubs of the hooks & clip down flush with the plastic strip and drilled 7/64" holes at the center of each spot. Then I used 3/4" #8 sheet-metal screws and fender-washers to re-attach it to my bumper. It's probably stronger now than the original setup.
For now, the left side seems still solidly attached so I'll wait to deal with that someday when/if it comes loose.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Thanks, Mark, I have been putting off this job for a while but I like what you suggested.

By fender washers you mean the rectangular things I fight with every time I work on a fender?

Tks

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

I've been meaning to put the bumper strip back on my wife's car for about 6 months now...

Fender washers are just large-diameter flat washers used to attach small screws or bolts to soft or thin materials, or to oversized holes where the screw or bolt heads might slip through or bind in the gap.
The plastic strips in the rubber won't accomodate holes for anything much larger than about a #8 sheet-metal screw. But the slots in the aluminum bumper are pretty large for those screws. So fender washers are needed. You should be able to find some 3/4" or 1" diameter washers to fit a #8 screw in any hardware store.
For my initial 'fix, because I didn't want to waste time running to a hardware store, I used what I happened to find on my workbench - a few #8 x 3/4" plated steel Philips sheet-metal screws and a 1"x 3" flat bit of galvanized sheet-steel to cut & drill my own fender-washers. I already had the right end of the bumper-rubber hanging loose from the bumper, when I drilled the holes in the plastic strips. I was careful not to drill the holes all the way through the outside of the rubber. After drilling, I pre-threaded those holes with the screws to make it easier to re-install the hardware from under/behind the bumper. I used a stubby Philips screwdriver so I didn't need to remove the bumper.
Since this fix is in a wet, dirty location, I recommend using stainless screws & washers, just in case, for whatever reason you might need to remove those strips in the future.
Like I may have to if any more of those plastic hooks break off later.
Now that the drilling & fitting has been done, I plan an upgrade to stainless as it will be pretty easy now to swap the hardware, one-at-a-time, without having to remove the strips.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Just want to say thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. Got my support rails anchored and the rubber strip back on yesterday with minimal drama.

Man does that look better now .

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Now that my bumper strip looks so much better, attention is automatically diverted to my 240D's horrid, faded, chalky navy-blue paint!

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Oh I do feel your pain. In a separate post I noted how, when I pulled the bumper ends off to make it a bit easier to roll in the last bit at the corner... I discovered they were being held in place by good wishes. The supports underneath have oxidized, vapourized would be more accurate.

So now I am driving around with a nice bumper again, but with the bumper end areas looking like poop.

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Don't know if Mark is still around. This is an old thread!

I have been thinking of using Chicago bolts (thin flat head) but that means removing the strip from the rubber bumper. (I have the bumper off) I thought about using sheet metal screws, but didn't think there was much meat in that plastic strip for them to grip into.

Maybe I am wrong? If the sheet metal screws will work using the existing plastic strip, that is the easy solution and I can do it now.

One alternative, I have thought of, is to eliminate the plastic strip and use short strips of aluminum inserted into the rubber, with hole threaded to take 1/4" bolt. They would be easy to slide and position.

Any input welcomed

PS: Currently drilling bumper shocks and bumper because internal brackets broke and bumper fell off

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

The plastic strips are cheap from our sponsor.

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All Diesel Fleet
1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL
2005 E320 CDI (daily)

LOTS of parts for sale!


EGR block kit
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html

1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This!
Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst.

Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11):
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html

Yep. Still around
Those special barrel fasteners look nice, but to use them, length is critical and with the heads in a blind space there's no assurance the barrels wouldn't turn while you're tightening them, or if you ever have to remove them. I think it's overkill. Substituting aluminum strips for the plastic is a better idea, though the aluminum will eventually corrode.
My strip has been attached 5 years now without needing further attention.
I never got around to installing all stainless screws & fender washers, but I'd still recommend that. I'll also suggest snapping off any remaining 'bullets' from the plastic strip, and installing screws for all of them.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

They are cheap from PP (and most US on-line shops. )

But not that cheap by the time they get to me in Canada. (approx C$100+ for the pair plus I would have to wait for a week or more).

I would have done that anyway, but I have tested the method using screws and it seems to work fine. Might supplement with 3M trim tape.

Advantage, is that I don't have to remove old trim strip and then try and muscle a 35yr old impact strip onto the new plastic strips

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

You are right Mark, I was just mulling over ideas.

I tested your screw idea and it seemed to work fine. That is what I am going to do. Thanks for the idea!

I only have two hooks left and the end pins are broken too. I may use short bolts or push rivets there. Don't know why the rubber hadn't fallen off!

Perhaps push rivets could be used to hold the rubber on? They could be installed by drilling through the impact strip. Then no need to remove the old plastic track. Not going to do that though

PS: Just ordered a small roll of 3M VSB tape. It will go between the old plastic strips and the metal bumper.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

Got it done today.

- Left 2 hooks in place to help with location.
- Left nubs as they helped with alignment, but did cut them flush.
- Located screws alongside nubs so that the strip could not move.
- used VHB as additional attachment as well as to hold strip while installing screws.
- Through bolted the ends using finishing washers on outside.

Seemed to work well. Thanks for the idea. Saved me $$$$.

Attached Thumbnails

       

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

....And everyone else who chimed in too .

Apparently I did this wrong as I slid the impact strip on one side of the plastic flange then muscled the other side over.... it wasn't Easy-Peasy but was do-able by this old man .

One question : the rubber impact strip has a top and bottom side, I couldn;t figure out which was which even after installing it, gazing at it, removing it again, flipping it over 180 degrees and re installing it ~

The inner portion that is against the bumper is marked so you can easily tell which side is which but I have no idea if the ribs go on the upper or lower side of the plastic flange...

The end pins are very easy to push out from the inside, don't over do it, I used a screwdriver to remove them and my finger tip to re insert them .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better