I bought the 78 SD for $2500. I've spent about $700 over the last 4 years, including tires for her. I've driven it just over 40,000 miles, so that's about 12.5/mile.

I'm good with that!

Seems like it might have been cheaper to replace the transmission with a reman. Part can be had for 1850 including shipping. My time will come, so it's something I think about....

I too have had great success with M1 5w40.

True costs of ownership or cost/mile
 

You need to add the costs of ownership into the equation, i.e. insurance, road tax, monthly payment, maintenance and depreciation into the equation. This is FIXED costs for driving 1 mile per year or 50K miles per year. In State like CT, I think they have property tax for owning a vehicle - you need to include that as well.

Then you need to add the running costs - diesel or gas whatever the case may be. That is your true running costs for the mileage. If you are want to be really clever, then you can work out the 'lost of opportunties' costs if you had invested the same money elsewhere. I don't want to get there myself.

If it comes out to be less then 50 cents per mile then you are ahead of the game as per the IRA rate chart below. You may find it to be very close to the official figure unless you have an old banger more than 10 year old.

"Beginning on Jan. 1, 2010, the standard mileage rates for the use of a car (also vans, pickups or panel trucks) will be:

50 cents per mile for business miles driven
16.5 cents per mile driven for medical or moving purposes
14 cents per mile driven in service of charitable organizations"

Rebuild local vs. install a re-man?
 

It depends on the labor cost where you live, the source of the remanufactured transmission, and the time factor. It took about a week, maybe a couple of days more, to have our transmission rebuilt and back in place. A re-man would have taken several days less but we weren't in a hurry. For someone on the road, time may be a major factor. Clearly, the cheap way would be to buy a used transmission (or a wreck with a good tranny) and install it yourself.

One of the best local rebuilders is Peter Schmid in Burlingame, south of San Francisco. IMHO, rebuilders are always "on the clock" and don't give the units as much individual attention as a local mechanic rebuilding one box at a time. Schmid's web site doesn't give price information so I can't quote a dollar figure other than to note that a rebuilt transmission buyer will have to pay sales tax (getting close to 10% now) plus shipping both ways (return of the core). Depending on location, one might save a few bucks by picking up the re-man and delivering the core at the same time.

If you can R&R the transmission yourself, so much the better. Here in California, R&R labor costs are such that there is little or no savings in buying a re-man. Plus, I know the guy who rebuilt my unit; he will always stand behind his work regardless of miles or warranty language.

The price breakdown for our tranny (in December 2007) was $1841.40 for labor (including R&R) plus $966.77 in parts (including a rebuilt torque converter) plus sales tax, then "only" 8%. Supplies, disposal, and state environmental fees (subtotal $25) brought the grand total to $2910.51.

Jeremy

What are you guessing/hoping the life expectancy of your rebuilt transmission will be?

Hi, Shertex,

The only way I know of to accurately calculate what a vehicle costs per mile are in two segments.

1) is the mpg you get on average to drive the car in STRICTLY OUT-OF-POCKET fuel costs.

OR

2) the total out-of-pocket of the car divided into the miles driven. Regardless of how many miles the car had on it when you bought it.

The only accurate per mile out-of-pocket calculation dictates all costs divided by miles.

How old or new a car is makes no difference in calculating that cost per mile.

The guy (fool) that plumps down $43,500.00 for a new EClass Mercedes-Benz, and drives it 1,000 miles and still owns it - just paid $43.50, plus fuel costs per mile. You need to be more specific when doing "cost per mile" calculations, or it's apples 'n watermellons.

My method is a bit quick and dirty, hence the sole focus on purchase price and repairs....and I'm more interested in the comparative than the absolute. Fuel costs these days are comparable (MB gets better mileage, but diesel costs more); insurance, inspections, etc. are the same....so those things cancel out. My hope is that owning an old MB is not unreasonable cost-wise....so far, I think I'm in good shape.

To me, you have ideal years of Mercedes-Benz diesel-powered autos. You are a rock star - hero to me for the MB auto decisions.

I believe you are good to go with your owning the outstanding Honda mini-van. Basically - you're in the cat bird seat!


The only negative in owning/driving old cars is that they breakdown more frequently versus new cars.

New cars are under warranty and old cars aren't

How old a car one owns is a personal financial decision.

At the age of 48 I realized that it was stupid to buy most any vehicle new - even if it's purchase price made no difference in your lifestyle. There is no getting over throwing tens of thousands of dollars away on a new Mercedes-Benz. How do I know? Because I was that guy paying cash for a new Mercedes diesel. I'm not that stupid anymore.

+1

BS - old car causes less to insure, less depreciation, less in tax. It may cause a bit more to maintain but is not enough to offset depreciation.

You are sooo modest.

Having had my share of old cars devoured by rust, my two '80s diesels are more hobby/second cars than everyday drivers. They do serve to take some of the wear & tear off my 'work' vehicle - a '98 Nissan Altima.
However, while cost-per-mile may be a standard, for me it isn't a fair measurement as I just don't annually put many thousands of miles on my diesels.
I prefer to compare my vehicles in terms of cost per month or year.

Happy Motoring, Mark

It's 4th grade arithmetic. Some don't grasp understanding simple equations.



Take another shot at your comprehension here.



+1

I agree - I am the man!

That's IN BOLD the only way to reconcile anything versus taking the bus or walking/bicycle.

I am on-track to drive my MB diesel car, perhaps no more than 2K miles a year. Down from a whopping 3K per year miles.

quote
Skid Row Joe
"$43.50 + fuel + insurance per mile" is hard to justify in a car's 1st 1,000 miles for instance... Owning it for a decade plus - no problemo!

For me fuel is the largest cost at ~6-12c/mile. Insurance/reg/smog are about 5c/mile, and repair/maintenance costs (mostly DIY except for tires and sometimes brakes) are ~2+c/mile.

Those Detroit models are the closest equivalents to the MB diesels many of us drive. In essence these models (both MB and US) are all fleet vehicles. Perform the scheduled maintenance and watch the miles roll by.

You quit driving at dusk?:D

The more you drive the more you amortize your fix costs - I take it back, money is not an issue here.