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#31
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Are the Glow Plugs not working? You say you are having trouble keeping the engine running correct?
Quick question, is the car lunging forward when you engage the starter or is it staying stationary like when you normally start the vehicle? Dont be afraid to hot-wire the starter, this is essentially what happens when you turn the key, it just completes a circuit via the solenoid. As long as your not cranking that starter for long periods of time like more than 10 seconds or so without allowing the starter to cool down between attempts, you're most likely just smelling the cheap wire being turned to solder from you by-passing the solenoid. You have fuses to keep the important stuff safe if you do happen to overload anything. But, i would get that motor idling to at least rule out any other problems. P.S. i bet it made you jump the first couple of times you goosed that starter to life huh? Batteries and sparks always make me jumpy!
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93 300 D 2.5 turbo |
#32
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No..I can get it going ....
just the smell got me to quit....looking for some diagram/ picture on where the starter /solenoid is located on the 81 SD..... AA
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." |
#33
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Found a thread on search
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/135985-tackling-starter-need-suggestions-sympathy.html#post1001659 Looks like I will not be DIY'ing today.....!!!!!! (you can feel the pain) ....
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." |
#34
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Thats the fun of wrenching on vehicles.... Try to locate the shop manual for this procedure, it probably involves removing trans cross member while supporting the trans with a trans jack or a good floor jack slowly lowering the trans until there is a dead on approach to the allen bolt. Also, they make allen heads with a round orb like end rather than the typical flat ended allen wrench, this allows you to approach allen bolts at an angle and still be able to get decent torque on the bolt head.
It's all about leverage and sometimes a REALLY long extension that you snake through the undercarriage to get a solid hold on the bolt. Or consider cutting a hole through your floor pan to create an access panel that you fill after the job is done with a large rubber grommet. I personally hate wobble sockets/universal joints. They tend to put absorb most of the torque rather than passing the energy directly to the bolt in question. They are helpful in certain applications, but for the most part they are good for stripping bolt heads and snapping under torque causing skinned knuckles and smashed fingers. I bet they used loc tite of some sort from the factory. I try my darndest NOT to use a pneumatic/impact wrench unless i'm busting off lug nuts or big nuts and bolts in general. You can get more precise torque by using man power and leverage of some sort, the hammering from the impacts are hell on the bolt and its shear strength .
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93 300 D 2.5 turbo Last edited by Glowplug; 12-11-2010 at 01:14 PM. |
#35
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[QUOTE
Busman, did jumping the terminals solve the no-start when hot problem? ][/QUOTE] It makes it faster for me to bump the starter 50 times to get it started, vs my wrist hurting from turning the so many times. I ended up parking the car, as it left me stranded twice, and im fearing pulling the starter. So until I get enough courage to tackle the starter shes sitting.
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__________________________________________ 1987 300D(Erma)- #14 head, 193k 2003 TDI Beetle sold 1985 300sd sold 1987 300D(Ursala)- #14 head, 157k when sold 1987 300D(Wilbur)- #14head, 356,000+miles, sold after 7 days of owning it. 1992mercedes 300d- totaled and in a junk yard somewhere.. 1983 mercedes 300sd- scrapped 1980 mercedes 300sd first mercedes diesel-sold |
#36
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Quote:
When the engine is hot or when the starter is hot from attempting to start the vehicle? If the no start situation happens when the engine is hot from being driven, you might just need to shim the starter in order to get good contact between the teeth of the starter gear and the teeth of the fly wheel. But that situation usually has alot of grinding noises and scraping noises coming from the loose contact between gears. If your starter doesn't want to work after cranking for a while that sounds like the brushes are burned up and not allowing propper conduction to spin the aperture to spin the starter gear.
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93 300 D 2.5 turbo |
#37
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Quote:
Like I said..it did crank and start..but w/o someone /me accelerating she stalled a few times ....hasn't been running in a month.... Now just tried to jolt again planning on keeping her running by hand on linkage under hood...and NADA...won't turn over again.. I guess what I smelled burning was solenoid or wiring in the starter..... Weds morning -call AAA -> mechanic is possibility.....I'm not the DIY guy for this job.... Thanks...AA ..
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'87 924S '81 280SEL Sold -> 81 300SD - 93 300E w/ 3.2 85 300D- 79 300SD 82 300CD 83 300CD - CA 87 190E 5 spd 87 Porsche 924S "..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..." |
#38
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Bet you just ran your battery down. Or popped a fuse in the fuse box. But i understand where your coming from, it can get frustrating. Also, make sure your key is in the start/on position and not turned back to off.
Wish i could help you out in person! Good luck with the repairs.
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93 300 D 2.5 turbo Last edited by Glowplug; 12-11-2010 at 01:40 PM. |
#39
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It makes it faster for me to bump the starter 50 times to get it started, vs my wrist hurting from turning the so many times. I ended up parking the car, as it left me stranded twice, and im fearing pulling the starter. So until I get enough courage to tackle the starter shes sitting.[/QUOTE]
When the engine is hot or when the starter is hot from attempting to start the vehicle? If the no start situation happens when the engine is hot from being driven, you might just need to shim the starter in order to get good contact between the teeth of the starter gear and the teeth of the fly wheel. But that situation usually has alot of grinding noises and scraping noises coming from the loose contact between gears. If your starter doesn't want to work after cranking for a while that sounds like the brushes are burned up and not allowing propper conduction to spin the aperture to spin the starter gear. [/QUOTE] It used to be when the engine was hot, then it progressively got worse to the point that no matter what temp, I turn the key roughly 50 times, and 1 or two of those the starter will go. However my starter makes noise, like its trying to spin but doesn have enough ummph to turn it, but sometimes I just get a click. I wouldnt call it a grinding noise, if I get a chance in the next few days ill take a recording of it. My problem now, is that even with our car lift this looks like one might not fun job to get that starter out of there. And once I do, its more money and labor for a very rusty car.
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__________________________________________ 1987 300D(Erma)- #14 head, 193k 2003 TDI Beetle sold 1985 300sd sold 1987 300D(Ursala)- #14 head, 157k when sold 1987 300D(Wilbur)- #14head, 356,000+miles, sold after 7 days of owning it. 1992mercedes 300d- totaled and in a junk yard somewhere.. 1983 mercedes 300sd- scrapped 1980 mercedes 300sd first mercedes diesel-sold |
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