I need to replace my upper and lower control arm bushings...they are dry rot.
I am going to try to do the upper control arms along with the help of a forum member!! Thanks 79mercy!

I have a question about ball joints...
What should be the deciding factor to replace the ball joints?
How can you tell if they are worn out? I took a look at them the other day and they seem to have some kind of rubber on them, but it looks as though it is not cracked or leaking anything (I dont know if they will leak or not)

I am going to have a shop do the lower control arms. Should I have the ball joints done at the same time as the lower control arm bushings? Or is this something that should be replaced only if making some kind of noise?


I also think I will attempt the tierods and drag link and idler arm bushing
I just do not want to mess with the coil springs

Its a good sign that the rubbers are not damaged. Do they have any movement when you rock the wheels in the 12 & 6 o'clock directions. Normally if you are replacing everything else, its worth doing them.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

No movement at all at 12-6
No Noises that I am aware of either
What are the symptoms of bad ball joints?

Symptoms? Read your last post !! Movement & noise !! When the shop does your LCA's they will be able to get a better assessment as they will have all the load off them.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

I know.. newbie questions....
Thanks for taking the time to answer...

Coil springs - particularly on the front - do seem daunting. Whilst there are several ways of getting some jobs done with them in place I am of the opinion that it is best to remove them. It is safer to have them out of the way - particularly if you end up with unforeseen problems that mean the job(s) take longer.

You guys in the US of A at least have the advantage of the members' tool lending scheme on this forum.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

With the joint disconnected from the stub-axle, the ball-pin should be tight in the LCA.

A Loose ball-joint, is a Bad ball-joint...

They are cheap enough, but a pain to change without the right tools, but as you're going that deep into the re-build, it would be silly not to replace them too....

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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

Guide rod bushings

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

"Guide rod bushings"

What does that mean?

Is this something to check into replacing? Or am I calling something the wrong name?

If you are going to replace your lower control arm bushing you're going to have to remove the coil spring. I don't think there is a safe way to take that bushing out without removing the control arm from the car. The spring staying in would mean the control arm stays in. I just did my whole front end this past summer. I borrowed a spring compressor from a member here goes by DeliveryValve - Here's info: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/deliveryvalve.html, you'll have to grind the access holes at the top to get the tool in the holes.

Here is my parts list for the rebuild.
Upper control
Control arm bushings
Lower control arm bushings
Lower ball joints
Guide rod mounts
Idler arm
Shock bushings
Wheel seals

Steering damper
Drag link
Tie rod assemblies

You could also put in new shocks and springs if you wanted.

This is a pretty big job, but there are several DIY threads here on doing it. It requires the spring compressor and a C - press to press in the ball joints. You can rent a press from most local parts stores, just make sure you take the ball joint in and can get a collar to fit over it. You'll also want the Factory Manual, it helps a ton.

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I am not going to mess with the springs, I am going to have a shop do that for me...those springs scare me