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  #1  
Old 11-16-2010, 07:52 PM
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W123 Driver Side rear window is stuck down?!

Well, my rear driver side window is stuck down on my 84 300D. I checked the console switches, OK. Replaced window fuses just to be safe, too. Then I switched the rear switches to rule that out, and with both switches, it will power on down but not on up. The window is now all the way down, and when I press the switch to lower it, the dome light slightly dims, it is obviously getting power there. No noise, no dim, nothing at all on while depressing up on the switch, either one. I lowered the window a little on the way home, and it wouldn't go up. I messed with it a little during the drive (up + down, etc.) to see if it would "work free" and didn't. After swapping the switches and messing with it after fuse replacement and so on, it is now all the way down.

I've searched the posts, done everything except take off the trim and check out the wiring and the motor, its dark out, I have no garage space to work with, and need to drive to work tomorrow.

I don't really want to take the trim off the door but I guess I will and see if I can figure out where the problem is. My guess from the threads is that there is a break in a wire through the door tunnel. Any other advice? This sucks. I'm an OK wrencher but electrical stuff is not my forte.

Thanks

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  #2  
Old 11-16-2010, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmacklind View Post
My guess from the threads is that there is a break in a wire through the door tunnel.
Agreed. You can remove the door switch and jump power to the "up" terminal. And jump the "down" terminal to ground.
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2010, 07:59 PM
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I don't have anything to jump it with other than a car battery charger which I'm guessing would blow something up!
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  #4  
Old 11-16-2010, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmacklind View Post
I don't have anything to jump it with other than a car battery charger which I'm guessing would blow something up!
If you are getting the motor to run in the "down" position, voltage has to be present at the door switch connector. All you need is a couple pieces of wire to jump from one terminal to the next at the door switch connector.
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2010, 08:07 PM
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At the risk of sounding stupid-I do't know how to actually do that. So, connect one piece of wire from the power source terminal to the "move it up" terminal?
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  #6  
Old 11-16-2010, 08:32 PM
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Pull the door switch out, leaving the block with female terminals in the door. Then use two short lengths of wire. Jumper terminal 3 (power) to terminal 2 with the first wire. Then jumper terminal 1 to terminal 4 (ground) with the second wire. The window should go up. (This assumes that the wire that should supply power to terminal 7 is broken.)
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  #7  
Old 11-16-2010, 08:46 PM
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Got some wire-tried it, no dice. (?) Thanks, sorry to be a pain here.
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  #8  
Old 11-16-2010, 08:50 PM
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Was the ignition switch in the run position?
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  #9  
Old 11-16-2010, 08:50 PM
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yes.
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  #10  
Old 11-16-2010, 08:54 PM
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Do you have a multimeter?

Also, was the child lock-out switch in the correct position?
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  #11  
Old 11-16-2010, 09:01 PM
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I have a multimeter, the lock out was good. I've got the door card off, plastic down, and I've given things a good "wiggle". Prepping multimeter.
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2010, 09:04 PM
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There are two wires going to the motor. Power to one and ground to the other makes the motor turn. Reversing polarity reverses direction.
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2010, 09:12 PM
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Well, not sure what I should do at this point. I'll check the tutorial again RE the motor. Any ideas on how to get the window up without pulling out the motor?
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2010, 09:42 PM
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I've had this same issue with multiple MB's. It's nearly always the rubber covered wires that get flexed every time you open and close the doors. Push the switch in the up position on the console and with your other hand- or with a helper- move the whole rubber around on the problem door while the door is open. You'll find, I hope, that in a certain position the wires will make contact and the "up" or "down" will work. It's been all rear doors with me on this one, and it may take a few seconds or a minute or two to find the "magic spot". Report back after trying.
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2010, 10:19 PM
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Well, I had the door card and weather liner off and then I followed the tutorial (to a point) enough to remove the lower window frame from the motor arm, fix the window to a fully raised position, and have the motor removed from the door ready for removal later.

I need to review the tutorial some more before I get too nervy and just start cutting wires, but the motor is getting removed and refurbed. Once I'm sure its working in both directions, I can reinstall and trace the problem more fully.

I had tried doing the fiddling, but it was while pushing the door switch, not the console switch. Its just me, its dark, I'm in my driveway with a mini lite in my mouth and magnetic tools and a magnetic dish for my bolts.

I fixed the window up with blue painters tape. I thought it contrasted sharply with the interior and adds a little "pardon my dust" class to the whole affair.

Thanks a lot for the help, I'm sure I'll need more.

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