The 87 300TD Touring Dream Fulfilled - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jcyuhn · #31 12-08-2010, 04:54 PM

I had a 1987 300TD exactly like this one. Same exterior color, same interior color, same option content.

It seems to be going up in value. I sold mine in 2004 with 140K miles for $6500. After perhaps 4 years, that owner listed it for sale on the forum for $6500 with 180-somethingK miles - though he had put plenty of money into it.

Enjoy, they are great cars.

odie · #32 12-08-2010, 05:01 PM

Very nice. A white wagon that is not a high mile service wagon is hard to find. Most white wagons were MB road service cars i believe...and prob got used pretty hard.

biopete · #33 12-08-2010, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman805

I have the "Seat Refresher/Adapters" (Part number 1249101675) for the drivers seat. Now I just need to figure out if I can add them without taking the seat out..any tips on where to find this info or search term to use?

I found a link for the MB Tex seats...is it the same for the leather?

Never heard of these. What part of deat do they refresh ? I'll be searching.

iceman805 · #34 12-08-2010, 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by biopete

Never heard of these. What part of deat do they refresh ? I'll be searching.

I could snap a couple of pictures Friday when I get back but they are T-shaped devices in what appears to be closed cell foam that fit in and around the front springs on each side of the seat to "refresh" it back to basically new.

vstech · #35 12-09-2010, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman805

I have the "Seat Refresher/Adapters" (Part number 1249101675) for the drivers seat. Now I just need to figure out if I can add them without taking the seat out..any tips on where to find this info or search term to use?

I found a link for the MB Tex seats...is it the same for the leather?

yes, both tex and leather seats disassemble the same way. basically, you sit in the seat and pull the cardboard trim out of the groove... I hear it's easiest to start in the corner and work your way around... a ratchet strap would make it easier. with a piece of plywood in the seat to compress evenly.

Skid Row Joe · #36 12-09-2010, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman805

Sorry it took me awhile to get back to this...I don't know what you paid but I'm just a regular guy who loves and appreciates Mercedes Diesels...especially the 87 300TD Turbo. =)

So I forked over $7700 including tax and license.

I've got some pics but rather than duplicate I'm going to post to the 87 300TD Turbo Pictures thread and post a link to it here.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/273200-300td-wagon-pictures-body-interior-engine-suspension-post2604479.html#post2604479

For $10K to $12K or thereabouts in it's first year, you've got a unique daily driver.

vstech · #37 12-09-2010, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iceman805

The vanity mirror is also loose from both visors, is there a specific glue to use to seal it back in? The plastic is a bit brittle as well.

Growing list of things I WANT to do:
Replace the lights
Add or replace anything else that will give her a sleeker look
Tinting!!
Fix the AC leak
Replace the one Tie Rod
New rims (and tires at that point)

I know you want to do all these things, but first thing is the vacuum pump.
and to do that you have to disconnect the belt tensioner, so that's a good time to inspect that.
the tensioner has two moving parts, and a spring my spring broke, so I replaced everything.
the pivot bearing was clunky, and the idler bearing had some play, and I did NOT wanna deal with any more problems in the belt area!
once the spring is loose by taking the nut off the plastic triangle, you stick either a 3/8" long ratchet extension in the hole and take tension off the bolt, then slide the bolt towards the valve cover, then let the spring loose, and take it off, and take the bolt out of the shock and let it dangle, get the belt off, and if there is any sign of cracking chunk it and put in a new one. next spin the idler and grab it and feel for any play. if it's clunky or has play... chunk it and order a new one. pivot the pivot bearing... clunky? chunk it. look over the spring. any wear in it? chunk it. now that the pivot is loose, tilt it out of the way, and take out all the bolts that hold the VP to the block. look in the block at the ramp. if you see any wear to speak of, take a picture and post it here and ask whunter for advice. mine was perfect, your low mileage one should be to, but you gotta look!
after verifying the ramp is good, look at the bearing on the vp arm. the cage should have 6 bearings separated by a plastic clip. if the clip is gone, chunk the VP. if both sides look good, and the clip is good on BOTH sides, your VP has not failed. I would STILL chunk it, as the original VP has several issues, and the updated ones have fixed all the issues. the old pump can and will sometime dump the bearings into your timing chain and blow the engine right up in dust. takes out the head, the cam, the pistons... not worth it to leave it in.

iceman805 · #38 12-10-2010, 07:31 PM

Originally Posted by vstech

Switched to blue for those who are colorblind =)

directly behind the driver's headlight you will see the large wires connected to the ceramic resistor
what would I see if there was something wrong?

if you look at the front of the motor, you will see a black plastic triangle (SNIP)as well.
same thing, what is considered bad?

what trouble are you having unlocking it? using the key or using your hand?
Using the key I can lock the her completely turning the key right, however, turning the key to the left does nothing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I know you want to do all these things, but first thing is the vacuum pump.
(SNIP)
blow the engine right up in dust. takes out the head, the cam, the pistons... not worth it to leave it in.

yeah if the original VP is in play, I'd remove it asap
Is this a straightforward job that I could do myself? I have some experience but not a "mechanic" with a background of work...although I did get pretty frisky with my 95 E300D.

I'm replacing the VP as soon as possible, will definitely order it tomorrow from Fastlane and discuss what other parts I should have on hand if it is something I find I can do. I need to be able to get it back up and running for daily transportation.

Is the new VP double diaphragm, single diaphragm or piston type?

I'm getting the Alldata subscription today and will review the info I find there as well.

Aquaticedge · #39 12-10-2010, 07:56 PM

Vac pump is easy. Release the bolts around the perimiter, take off the brake servo hose and remove the pump and gasket. Reverse to put on and there you go

iceman805 · #40 12-19-2010, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I know you want to do all these things, but first thing is the vacuum pump.

I scheduled the replacement of the VP with my mechanic Enrique (Mr MB in Tarzana) Saturday morning and had him do the tie rod at the same time.

I don't have a garage to work in, the rain has moved in for a while it seems in California, and I didn't really have the time to do it before the trip to San Diego this week so that is that. I am so relieved that I don't have to worry about it anymore.

Enrique looked her over again and gave her the thumbs way up...he also clued me in to the fact that the defroster activates the AC pump so if I ever see the temp get above 110 I'll crank the heater (not the defroster) while I pull over to investigate/deal with it.

One thing that he said was very important (and I haven't read anywhere here yet) was to check the flex disc on the drive shaft for wear. If it goes while you are driving and you don't pull straight over it can apparently heat up the controller for the driver side air bag and cause it to deploy while you are driving.

Mine was fine and good to go and while we were under the car I discovered it has the plug in unit for cold weather starts! The fact that she was in Washington DC from 1987 to 2001 and there is ZERO rust anywhere...I am so unbelievably grateful to own this wonderful vehicle.

He glued the vanity mirror back in the driver side sun visor as well for me as it had become loose.

I found out I wasn't turning the key far enough to the left to lock the rear hatch (I didn't want to force it) so that works perfect.

The Leatherique is scheduled to arrive tomorrow and can't wait to get started on the seats over the Christmas holiday.

God, I just LOVE THIS CAR!

vstech · #41 12-20-2010, 08:32 AM

Cool!
I'd not heard of anything but a frontal collision activating the airbag...
the flex discs are ALWAYS an important item to inspect though.

iceman805 · #42 12-20-2010, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Cool!
I'd not heard of anything but a frontal collision activating the airbag...
the flex discs are ALWAYS an important item to inspect though.

Yep, when it was up on the hoist he showed me the controller located directly over the flex disc without any insulation between the two.

Still need to check my 0 to 60 time...