Update and question- 81 300D

[showme]

Ok, after a weekend of fun (new front shocks and valve adjustment, both new to me on this car), I got out the mity vac today and started playing like I knew what I was doing. Of course, I was armed with prints of posts from this forum. Anyway, the cars been shifting funny lately, as in not shifting into 3rd and 4th without way too much "let off" on the accel., and the dieseling has morphed into not shutting down without popping the hood and hitting the stop button. So, after I found that my car doesn't have a Bowden cable or any linkage on the passenger side, (see picture below) I started checking vacuum lines. I found a connector was going in to the white transmission control doo-dad on the ip that was bleeding off, so I replaced it and it now holds vacuum. Then, I found a connector (small section of hose) that goes to the shut off valve from the brown line via the ignition switch, had an issue, (probably just too wollered out), so I replaced it, too. While I was at it, I pulled vacuum on that link to the shut off valve, and it shut the engine off quickly. So, does this mean that the shut off valve is probably good, but maybe the actuator at the ignition switch is bad?? I saw a tiny bit of oil at the end of the brown hose, but it could have been from brushing up against my really oily engine. The vac on the shut off definitely did the trick. But after I put the new "connector" on and drove it till it warmed up, it still wouldn't shut off without the stop button. The one thing I didn't do, now that I think of it, was check the vacuum on the brown line between the ignition and the shut off valve to see if that line was bad (Damn, I knew I'd forget something!) Anyway, any thoughts of what's going on with the non-shut down would be appreciated. Sorry about the long post. Oh, yeah, BTW it runs and shifts great now that I've adjusted the valves and fixed those few vacuum leaks, and the ride is better with the new shocks. Now I just need to get it to stop when I turn the key off before the cold sets in. It was 72* here today, which is a miracle in itself. Thanks again for all the help in these matters! Lee

[showme]

Something I forgot to mention above is that in my Hayne's manual, when I looked up tranny and throttle linkage, it had adjustment instruction on two different types of linkage, which both had nice drawings of them, but neither one was like mine in the picture above. Does anybody know where I can find the "how to" for adjustment on this type of linkage? I hate it when Haynes does that! They either cover it really well, or don't give you anything at all. I got the nothing part this time. Thanks again.

[vstech]

to isolate the vacuum shutoff, you are going to have to start at the source, and block off everything and get a reading on the vacuum of the pump itself. then connect one thing at a time until you find what dumps the vacuum. block that off, or fix the broken vacuum part, and you should have working shutoff.
sorry I can't just say "go here and push and it'll work"
do your door locks all work? trunk? gas flap? those are the most common.
isolate the yellow lines, from the rest, and see if all works. if so, then the door lock actuators are torn, then you follow each one, and see what's what.

[showme]

Yeah, to be honest, I don't think the doors, the rear ones, anyway, have ever actually worked unless I did them manually. the fuel cover...never in the almost 4 years we've owned it. I figured we didn't need them, so I didn't fix those problems. And the shut down problem has only been going on for a little while. Tomorrow I'll get out there and check the brown line leading to the shut off and go from there. Thanks, vstech

[showme]

Here's where I've got to so far. I checked the vac line to the shut off valve, and it's clean. I even sprayed some brake cleaner through it just to make sure. When I pull vac on that line, it holds, and it shuts the engine off. I then hooked the mityvac to the incoming solid brown vac line (the other is brown\blue stripe), and was able to kill the engine by applying vac with the key in the off position, though until the vac was applied, it was running w\ the key turned off. I then checked the yellow vac valve which splits with the yellow line (windows?) and a black\yellow stripe [pic 1]that goes over to what I think is the vac reservoir behind the drivers side headlight (a canister)[pic 2]. This valve is fed by a 4 way that also feeds the brown ign. vac line. What I DO know is that if I apply vacuum manually to the brown ignition feed, it will kill the car.
I'm assuming that the can is fed by the vac pump somewhere in the back(?), since a larger black line runs up the fender and disappears into the dash around the door hinge[pic 3]. Would my next step be to unscrew the fastening bolt on that line to the can and see what I've got coming into it, or is that completely wrong? I'm not getting any vacuum where the small black\yellow stripe leaves the canister in pic 2. I'm really lost now, except that I know if I had vac pulling on that brown line, it will stop the engine. Hope this isn't too muddled. Maybe the pics will help. Once it got into the 4 ways, and yellow check valve, I was lost. HELP!

[toomany MBZ]

The yellow vac, check valve goes to the locking system, doors, trunk and fuel door, the windows are completely electric. But unplug that check valve, plug off the rubber connector and see if the engine will shut off with the key.

Pic 2 is of the cruise control servo.

That line in pic three on the right is the hood release cable.