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  #16  
Old 11-22-2010, 03:09 PM
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All MB's I've owned that glow plug, but there ya go.

All of mine had/have the pencil style, vs. the loop style.

JHZR2, you're best bet would be to remove one and measure it.
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  #17  
Old 11-22-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post

JHZR2, you're best bet would be to remove one and measure it.
There is no need to measure it if it's a 617.952 engine. It's M12.

Last edited by tangofox007; 11-22-2010 at 04:06 PM.
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  #18  
Old 11-22-2010, 03:57 PM
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M18 size are the LOOP TYPE....

M12 are the Pencil Type....

Simples!

A little research suggests the earler .95x and the .912 engines used Loop Type (M18 thread) plugs
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  #19  
Old 11-22-2010, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
There is no need to measure it if it's a 617.952 engine. It's M12.
Which is what I stated to begin with.

The poster that inquired has those gp's, I'm sure. Earlier models may have come with the 18 threads, but not JHZR2's, not even his 240.
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  #20  
Old 11-22-2010, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
If that is the best that you can do when it comes to grammar and punctuation, your critiques of other folks' posts are destined to offer more entertainment than enlightenment.
Seriously? I merely pointed out that the title doesnt really give the OP's purpose much help and that perhaps a little more info would have been good.


Quote:
Is your search engine out of fuel?
Nope, but it occasionally misfires.
Again, you seem to have missed my point. I dont mind opposing views, but for someone to simply state that an option is less than perfect without offering info isnt doing a new user any benefit.

Does no one agree that a thread mentioning specific tools that are available on this site without a link to these tools leaves the thread a little short ?



Quote:
Or was the wording of this earlier post inadequate for your needs?
No, but I did follow the described path for my 83 300TDT and found no GP reamers listed. My intent was to provide the link for others.

Clearly I seemed to have struck a nerve.

Here is where the reamers are listed.
http://www.peachparts.com/diy/mb_tools/mb_tools.php?page=57
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  #21  
Old 12-05-2011, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
Hi,

There are a few good threads on testing and working on glow plugs, but I haven't seen much on the best tools. I saw one thread where a drillbit was welded into an old glowplug...

But what is best practice? Just a drillbit? What size, should I get some sort of brush to work the holes like the site from up in Washington sells?

Is it smart to get grease in the prechambers, or am I better off maybe dipping the tool into oil which might have fewer ramifications?

Should I blow compressed air in or such vacuum on the hole before cranking to blow them out?

Thanks!

I do not know if it works as well on a Drill Bit; but, Grease on the Reamer Grooves (Flutes) traps the bulk of the Carbon keeping it from dropping into the Prechamber.

The Grease tends to get pushed backwards by the Carbon and not into the prechamber.

Also the use of Grease and cranking the Engine before you install the Glow Plugs to blow out any remaining loose Carbon is in the Mercedes Service Manual.
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  #22  
Old 12-06-2011, 09:20 AM
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I obtained a jobber length 7mm drill bit from mcmaster, and used some grease on it and all was well.
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  #23  
Old 12-06-2011, 09:47 AM
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Just one additional bit of info: When I first got my 116 it had tons of carbon build up. It was very hard to get the old plugs out because there was so much carbon around them. Getting the reamer in the hole was a serious challenge and without the threads at the end of the reamer and a wrench it would have been almost impossible to get the reamer to penetrate to the full depth of the plug. So, in some cases, a drill bit might not be effective. In most cases it probably will be.
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  #24  
Old 12-06-2011, 11:35 AM
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I think the tool with more chip clearance on the flutes is the better tool, i.e. more space to hold carbon (I think a drill bit wins). A spiral flute traps more carbon than straight flute, which tends to push the carbon into the pre chamber. When using a reamer, do not fill the flutes completely with grease. You want a thin layer and give space for the carbon. Also do not go in all the way in one shot. Go in a little, take out and wipe off, re-grease, go in a little more, repeat. This will minimize pushing carbon into the pre chamber.
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  #25  
Old 12-06-2011, 01:00 PM
Gene
 
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Good advice Funola. Damn! I forget to crank the bugger over before I put the new GPs in. It smoked up the neigborhood!

I got my reamer from Diesel 911. Mint.

For 606

12mm deep well socket, 4" ext . I use 3/8 palm ratchet on the way in, but sometimes you need a big 1/2 ratchet to get them out. so...
3/8 to 1/2" drive adapter, short 1/2" extension

Penetrating oil. ( for stuck ones).

Reamer ( see diesel 911 or maybe Phil?) and wheel grease.

anti-sieze to apply on the new GPs

I run a gun cleaning setup in them, going in with the patch wrapped on the rod, into the prechamber, then allowing the cloth to unfurrel, and then bringing it back through the hole to get any last junk out.

For us 606 folks with the extra long GPs the only way to do them is with the engine HOT!

Last edited by WINGAS; 12-07-2011 at 05:20 AM.
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  #26  
Old 12-07-2011, 12:18 AM
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You can also vacuum whatever carbon that gets into the pre chamber with a small hose adapted to a vacuum cleaner. I'd imagine that any carbon that's still in the pre chamber won't cause any problems and will get burned up since it's so hot in there. Just make sure you give it a good Italian tuneup afterwards.
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  #27  
Old 12-07-2011, 05:15 AM
Gene
 
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Oh man dude, this thing smoked like dumping Gm Top Engine Cleaner in a old V8!

To the OP, I would add to the "kit" one of those clamp on ammeters that funola posted about. Now theres a excellent GP diagnostic tool.
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