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  #16  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:17 PM
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Just had this work done on my 95 E300D by my local indy. $700.00...ouch!
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  #17  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvran71 View Post
Just had this work done on my 95 E300D by my local indy. $700.00...ouch!
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
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  #18  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:58 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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WSOW!!! great step by step write up. this should go into the Wiki resources area.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #19  
Old 12-11-2010, 12:56 AM
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Thanks.

I guess one thing I should add is that you obvioulsy don't have to go about trying to get the little valve out of the upper brass fitting the same way I did (and ultimately mucked it all up). If you want to replace that one, I would suggest (as Diesel911 did) using a Dremel or a drill to remove some of the lip that holds the valve in. You are going to have to do this anyway - there isn't any way around it. Once you have removed enough, you can get the old valve out, insert the new one and the use JB Weld like I did. Another option would be to drill a few spots out around the perimeter of the lip so that you can bend little tabs of the lip out, remove old - insert new, then bend the tabs down. That would probably work as well, but I think the JB did a fine job. Either way - at least you'll know a little more going in than I did, but it still worked out well.
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'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman
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  #20  
Old 12-11-2010, 02:27 AM
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X2 on the nice write up.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #21  
Old 12-03-2012, 10:15 PM
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leak

If I have a leak coming from the lift pump gasket on the side of the injection pump. How do I know if I just need to replace the gasket or rebuild/replace the lift pump.

Just for clarity I call it the lift pump but it seams to be referred to as the fuel pump. Regardless I'm not referring to the injection pump.

Thanks for the help.
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1998 E300 Turbodiesel 190,000 Elsbett Conversion
(Sold) 1992 300D over 251,000 Greasecar Conversion
Over 70 K of veggie miles total.
Follow link below to see the conversions and instructions.
http://www.geocities.com/jaycimini/MainNavigationPage.html
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  #22  
Old 12-03-2012, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC View Post
If I have a leak coming from the lift pump gasket on the side of the injection pump. How do I know if I just need to replace the gasket or rebuild/replace the lift pump.

Just for clarity I call it the lift pump but it seams to be referred to as the fuel pump. Regardless I'm not referring to the injection pump.

Thanks for the help.
When I write I like to include some of the names things are called by; I put Fuel Supply/Lift Pump; with another slash it can become Fuel Pump.

If it is leaking Engine Oil that is the Gasket between the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump and the Fuel Injection Pump Housing.
Also on the M type Fuel Injectin Pumps there is a Cover right above the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump that can leak downwards and seem like it is the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.

If it is fuel that is leaking it is something on the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump itself.
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  #23  
Old 12-03-2012, 11:42 PM
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nice write up. im thinking to do mine now
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