Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 12-08-2010, 06:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chi-Town
Posts: 100
Just had this work done on my 95 E300D by my local indy. $700.00...ouch!

Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-08-2010, 09:23 PM
tankowner's Avatar
You talkin’ to me?
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 907
Quote:
Originally Posted by gvran71 View Post
Just had this work done on my 95 E300D by my local indy. $700.00...ouch!
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-08-2010, 09:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,652
WSOW!!! great step by step write up. this should go into the Wiki resources area.


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-10-2010, 11:56 PM
tankowner's Avatar
You talkin’ to me?
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 907
Thanks.

I guess one thing I should add is that you obvioulsy don't have to go about trying to get the little valve out of the upper brass fitting the same way I did (and ultimately mucked it all up). If you want to replace that one, I would suggest (as Diesel911 did) using a Dremel or a drill to remove some of the lip that holds the valve in. You are going to have to do this anyway - there isn't any way around it. Once you have removed enough, you can get the old valve out, insert the new one and the use JB Weld like I did. Another option would be to drill a few spots out around the perimeter of the lip so that you can bend little tabs of the lip out, remove old - insert new, then bend the tabs down. That would probably work as well, but I think the JB did a fine job. Either way - at least you'll know a little more going in than I did, but it still worked out well.
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 12-11-2010, 01:27 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,038
X2 on the nice write up.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 12-03-2012, 09:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 91
leak

If I have a leak coming from the lift pump gasket on the side of the injection pump. How do I know if I just need to replace the gasket or rebuild/replace the lift pump.

Just for clarity I call it the lift pump but it seams to be referred to as the fuel pump. Regardless I'm not referring to the injection pump.

Thanks for the help.
__________________
1998 E300 Turbodiesel 190,000 Elsbett Conversion
(Sold) 1992 300D over 251,000 Greasecar Conversion
Over 70 K of veggie miles total.
Follow link below to see the conversions and instructions.
http://www.geocities.com/jaycimini/MainNavigationPage.html
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 12-03-2012, 10:11 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonC View Post
If I have a leak coming from the lift pump gasket on the side of the injection pump. How do I know if I just need to replace the gasket or rebuild/replace the lift pump.

Just for clarity I call it the lift pump but it seams to be referred to as the fuel pump. Regardless I'm not referring to the injection pump.

Thanks for the help.
When I write I like to include some of the names things are called by; I put Fuel Supply/Lift Pump; with another slash it can become Fuel Pump.

If it is leaking Engine Oil that is the Gasket between the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump and the Fuel Injection Pump Housing.
Also on the M type Fuel Injectin Pumps there is a Cover right above the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump that can leak downwards and seem like it is the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump.

If it is fuel that is leaking it is something on the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump itself.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 12-03-2012, 10:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 206
nice write up. im thinking to do mine now
__________________
1999 W210 E300 Turbodiesel
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 07-26-2019, 07:43 AM
Father Of Giants's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Newport News, Virginia
Posts: 1,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by tankowner View Post
12. Now on to the second valve in the upper brass fitting – this one is trickier.

Picture1: Here is that upper fitting removed from the pump body. Oh, and you’ll want to replace the o-ring here as well. It’s part # 021 997 88 48, but again, the dealer told me it had been replaced with # 012 997 72 45 – that is what I bought and used.

So the valve is inside the brass fitting. Thinking that I could just push it out, like the previous one, I inserted a punch through the top of the fitting and then proceeded to hammer it out. Uh, bad idea. The fitting is actually pressed around the valve, so that a small lip holds it in.

Picture 2: You can see the new valve sitting on top of the fitting to illustrate that the valve itself has a larger diameter than the opening in the fitting it is pressed into (obviously not apparent to me at first).

Picture 3: Clearly, I mucked it up trying to get it out, as you can see in the pic.

Picture 4: And this is what the old valve looked like when it came out (in comparison to a new valve) . . .
Plan on doing this today, what is the proper way to remove the valve without damage?
Edit:post #19 answered my question
__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 07-27-2019, 12:32 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by tankowner View Post
I guess one thing I should add is that you obvioulsy don't have to go about trying to get the little valve out of the upper brass fitting the same way I did (and ultimately mucked it all up). If you want to replace that one, I would suggest (as Diesel911 did) using a Dremel or a drill to remove some of the lip that holds the valve in. You are going to have to do this anyway - there isn't any way around it. Once you have removed enough, you can get the old valve out, insert the new one and the use JB Weld like I did. Another option would be to drill a few spots out around the perimeter of the lip so that you can bend little tabs of the lip out, remove old - insert new, then bend the tabs down. That would probably work as well, but I think the JB did a fine job. Either way - at least you'll know a little more going in than I did, but it still worked out well.
Note if you are rebuilding the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump again after having previously used JB Weld Epoxy to hold and seal the valve in place you can simply hold that part in a pliers and heat it with a Propane torch till it burns the Epoxy will actually happen very fast (JB Weld is rated for 250 degrees F, after that heat starts to deteriorates it).

If no Propane Torch putting it in an conventional (not microwave) oven up to 400 degrees would likely do the same job.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 07-27-2019, 02:30 PM
J-P J-P is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 9
I know this is an old thread, but that is a whole lot of work, at fairly high risk if not done properly, for a part that is readily available brand new and very easy to swap out.

Fairly high risk to low reward ratio.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 07-27-2019, 02:45 PM
J-P J-P is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 9
To add, I just did the swap with a new unit as part of sending my injectors out for a rebuild and replacing ALL the fuel lines in the engine compartment, plastic, braided and rubber, as well as a few other items.

Since the intake manifold was already off, R&R of the fuel/lift pump was all of ten minutes, most of which was wiping the engine oil that leaks out of the IP.

With all the work, there is no more pinging and nailing, and it runs about as smooth and quiet as it did 100K miles ago.

DIY the rebuild if you want, but the time and risk saved is well worth the $130 the complete replacement pump kit costs, gasket and copper o-rings included.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 07-28-2019, 09:10 AM
Father Of Giants's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Newport News, Virginia
Posts: 1,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by J-P View Post
To add, I just did the swap with a new unit as part of sending my injectors out for a rebuild and replacing ALL the fuel lines in the engine compartment, plastic, braided and rubber, as well as a few other items.

Since the intake manifold was already off, R&R of the fuel/lift pump was all of ten minutes, most of which was wiping the engine oil that leaks out of the IP.

With all the work, there is no more pinging and nailing, and it runs about as smooth and quiet as it did 100K miles ago.

DIY the rebuild if you want, but the time and risk saved is well worth the $130 the complete replacement pump kit costs, gasket and copper o-rings included.
i have to agree. Especially the part where you have to cut out the valve one way or another.

I don't even have a vise for that.
__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 07-28-2019, 09:21 AM
Father Of Giants's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Newport News, Virginia
Posts: 1,597
I know back in the 50's they actually rebuilt water pumps, but this rebuild is not plug and play.
__________________
1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 07-28-2019, 09:05 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,038
Quote:
Originally Posted by Father Of Giants View Post
i have to agree. Especially the part where you have to cut out the valve one way or another.

I don't even have a vise for that.
Nothing wrong with using new parts.

However, the part he is speaking of is the outlet nipple on the Fuel Supply/lift pump that contains a valve crimped in place.

If you are willing to carefully JB Weld Epoxy the new Vale in place to get the old valve out you can simply get some coarse (80-40 grit) sand paper and a piece of wood about the size of the sand paper, put the sand paper on the board rough side up and the Nipple valve side down and sit while you watch TV and simply sand the lip off. That would remove the whole lip and you can pry out the valve.

The other methods could be done with the Nipple in a vice grips gripped around the Hex of the nipple.

I don't recall if there was an issue with the other valve which is retained inside of the Piston.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page