For flat tappet gas engines, VR1 is a great and one of the best choices. It is one of the few Racing oils that have enough detergents to allow it to be run on the street. Most other racing oils are lacking in detergents because they rely on VERY FREQUENT oil change intervals.

For a diesel application, however, soot dispersal enters the equation and requires a different ZDDP/detergent balance. You would be better served to stick with one of the common diesel choices for a diesel engine.

Hope this helps.

Oil additives should never be used under any circumstance. Adding a bunch of junk will just cause conflicts with the additive package engineered by the oil maker.

Have you been to the zddp site or Bobstheoilguy site? If so you 'd be siinging a different tune. As long as you've been here- a short time- you should know that authoritative tones like you have taken from newcombers is not appreciated- this forum is civil, especially the Diesel Discussion. You list yourself as a mercedes tech, but oil is oil- and it's not specific to MB's of course. ZDDP is a specific additive to deal with the changing nature of oils over decades. While zddp additive do not really apply to the diesels since diesl rated oil tend to have adequate levels, the discussion here is valid. Larry B 's last post clarified that in the latter part of his post.

I believe the advice of the multi-billion dollar oil developer more than some newcomber additive peddler or a hobbyist website full of anecdotes and self-science.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Using_Oil_Stabilizers.aspx
Mobil 1 fully synthetic motor oil exceeds the industry’s toughest standards and outperforms all conventional oils. We do not recommend adding engine oil additives to any lubricant. The additives in an oil are carefully balanced and the addition of other additives can de-stabilize the oil and cause additives to drop–out of solution.

Clearly you are the only one with that feeling since you're the only one being very rude to me, and that is not appreciated by anyone. Its time for you to learn your place, you're not the only one with knowledge of these vehicles. By your demonstration, the knowledge you possess is very flawed, much to the detriment of this forum's reputation.

You are very much demonstrating otherwise especially since you've been given infractions before. I think the moderators need to step in and tighten your leash a little more.

Wow, shows what you know of BITOG, and though some do experiment, you'll find that the general guidance is to avoid. Most everything IS snake oil, and without analysis, that is what should be considered. That said, there are some adds which DO work and can be validated by analytical techniques.

Lubes can be optimized in some circumstances, and a lot of what you'll find is what is best for an engine design, use profile, etc. There ARE differences.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

Personally, I don't use any additives. I just use good quality oil and change it at an appropriate interval.

Bobstheoilguy has collectively more experience than you, me and the whole PP forum combined. Lubrication oils today are not the same formulas as ten years ago, and those are different than the forumulas of 20 years ago. I believe you'd be a great addition to the monkeys over at Benzworld with the start like you have shown.

That's what got older car owners with the type of engines in question in trouble. Diesel oil and new gas engines have little to worry about as zppd levels are with acceptable ranges and further protection is not needed. I personally use no additives either because my engines are not the ones affected.

0 + 0 = 0
No matter how you slice it, one anecdote or tens of thousands do not make science. When oil companies start endorsing their opinions I'll start viewing their site as though it contains factual information.

There is that hostile, condescending and ignorant opinion of yours again. When will you learn, nobody cares what bullies like you think?

Lack of (or ignorance of) maintenance is what causes trouble. Chancing the oil at the factory recommended interval of 5k miles will do nothing but keep the engine alive.

Congratulations, you've officially labeled yourself as a hypocrite.

Personally, I would believe the person who has nothing to gain in recommending something before the company that is trying to sell it to me. Of course the oil company is going to say their product is perfect as-is! I haven't seen any advertisements where they say "our oil is OK, but you should really add this stuff to it if you want it to last"! Wake up!

As far as this being a "hobbyist" website I think you are underestimating the amount of knowledge here. Perhaps as a Mercedes tech you could share your knowledge instead of being disrespectful to older members. Or maybe this site of "hobbyist" is cutting into your profits so you came hear to learn some tricks of the trade!

How many years have you been a Mercedes tech and what is your area of specialty?

__________________
1984 300TD 1981 240D

You do realize that the site has formulators, engineers, analytical lab operators, and all sorts of other experience, right?

You also realize that a number of members have actively been involved in formulating their own oils which are actually outperforming large manufacturer's oils, especially in direct injected applications which have severe dilution issues.

Newer API sn and ilsac gf-5 oils use far higher quality stocks and adds then before, but they aren't automatically the optimum for all applications. The prevalence of manufacturers proprietary specifications.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

But they are happy to sell you a better product they offer.

Look on the shelf, there are dozens of additive manufacturers trying to take advantage of gullible people.

Remember 0+0? What was the answer? What they are doesn't change no matter how many hobbyists join or how many opinions are collected. Such as this forum, it can gain a million members but it will always be a collection of enthusiasts.

8, I'm work for an independent German car oriented shop.

What did I tell you earlier on...?

There is NO Doubt that these new Low Zddp oils DO cause issues with OLD engines with 'flat-tappets'...

NO DOUBT AT ALL!

Thats why the blends specifically FOR 'classic' and older engines have a sufficient quantity to protect those areas....

You wouldnt use Mobil 1 fully synth in a Model T would ya!

Of course not! You would use a lube more suited to that OLD engine design....

Simples!

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

For all you badmouth BITOG, you realize that there are lots of independent mechanics that spread gross misinformation that is very difficult to right?

I'd say a solid 30% of the threads over there have to correct misinformation from folks with real technical and scientific basis.

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I just looked and I see that the MoS2 that I use is 1.5 microns dry powder. I have about a pint of it in dry powder format. I mix it with oil and even with high temperature grease for brake sliders. I believe in the product and science behind it. Just my 2cts.

FYI http://MoS2 info

I like to add it at the start of a trip or when I know the engine will be running for a couple of hours. I believe it works and if it doesn't I still feel better about using MoS2.

Interesting in that I have been lurking since 2006, time flies!

__________________
1999 Mercedes E300TD daily driver sold at 238K miles 106K miles were mine, rust worm got it :-(
2006 Mercedes CDI new daily driver! 56,000 miles May 2016 now 85,625 Apr 2018 and Apr 2019 101,000 miles Apr 2020 109,875. March 2024 135,250