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  #16  
Old 11-24-2010, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
...To the OP, why not replace the glow plugs? It isn't that hard and NAPA had Bosch plugs in stock behind the counter.


In the summer, my poor car had one dead plug. Even then the poor car did not want to start.

I can't even imagine what single digit weather would be like with a non working glow plug system.
X2

I had one go out this fall. I had to plug in the block heater for an hour to get it moving in 55 degree weather. 1 new plug and I was good to go. It starts pretty well below freezing now.

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  #17  
Old 11-24-2010, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
To the OP, why not replace the glow plugs? It isn't that hard and NAPA had Bosch plugs in stock behind the counter.
Well my glow plugs just went out and I need to drive to napa to get new ones. I also need to borrow someones garage so I don't have to install them in the snow.
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  #18  
Old 11-24-2010, 01:30 PM
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1987 w124 300D
 
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Jeepers why not just replace the stock block heater? It's purpose built. Chances are it is probably fine and you'll just see that a wire is broken.

..all these exotic work-arounds... sprinkling heat on the engine using light bulbs, hot air guns, blankets, and wire wraps... maybe in a pinch sure

But the wheel has been invented, use it.

It you don't want to get messy with coolant, find a magnetic stick on block heater. Making metal to metal contact, or metal to coolant (stock) contact, is way better than air convection between heater block.

I must admit where I live, on really cold days, a propane blow torch to the oil pan for five minutes is necessary to crank, even if your block heater and battery wrap have been plugged in all day long.
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  #19  
Old 11-24-2010, 03:43 PM
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We use that here in lovely eastern canada as an alternative to a block heater or battery blanket on gassers. However a 40w bulb would never be enough to move a Mercedes diesel (5x so if with dino oil in the pan) but might help a VW diesel a little bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I do not know if this will work or not but I met this guy who had been stationed in Alaska when he was in the Army. He said they Ran a 40 watt Bulb so it could be place insde Air Filter Housing or on the Intake manifold and coverd the whole Engine with an insulating Blanket (fire proof?).

They left it there until the Vehicle was ready to be run.

He did not say if the Vehicles they did this to were gas or Diesel.

Never gets cold enough here for me to test it to see if it works or not.
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
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  #20  
Old 11-24-2010, 03:44 PM
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Ouch. Where do you live?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
I must admit where I live, on really cold days, a propane blow torch to the oil pan for five minutes is necessary to crank, even if your block heater and battery wrap have been plugged in all day long.
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

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  #21  
Old 11-24-2010, 04:04 PM
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How cold did it get out there, Conn? It was 14 degrees at my house last night. That's about as cold as it ever gets here, and my 240D hibernates when there's snow on the ground.

I wonder what actually fails on block heaters - the electrical element? There isn't a thermostat in them, is there? Hopefully it's just the cord that has gone bad. I know one person who told me one time their block heater failed but the outlet it was plugged into just had a tripped GFCI. Still doesn't help when you have to leave for work.
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  #22  
Old 11-24-2010, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
Jeepers why not just replace the stock block heater? It's purpose built. Chances are it is probably fine and you'll just see that a wire is broken.
That is what I plan to do. I'm going to check it out the same time I do my glowplugs since I will have my multimeter out.

The hair dryer was a stop gap measure just to get my car going this morning so I could get to work and get parts afterwards. I may just keep the hair dryer in the car and run two extension cords to decrease the warm up time or possibly use it to heat the cabin while the block heater does its thing.
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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

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  #23  
Old 11-24-2010, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by katja View Post
How cold did it get out there, Conn? It was 14 degrees at my house last night. That's about as cold as it ever gets here, and my 240D hibernates when there's snow on the ground.
it got down to -1F last night. So far today's high was 17F . I have to go and start my car every two hours to keep the heat in the block while I'm at work.

Quote:
I wonder what actually fails on block heaters - the electrical element? There isn't a thermostat in them, is there? Hopefully it's just the cord that has gone bad.
You nailed it. Its either a connection, a wire, or the element burns out.

I don't think there is a thermostat. Typically car companies that ship the car with one stock try to size it so that it won't over heat the engine a few degrees (10C or so) above freezing. That way they save money.

Someone at work here found a remote starter that has a thermostat that you can set so it will start your engine when the engine temp falls below a threshold you set. That has perked my interest as a fail safe.
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green 85 300SD 200K miles "Das Schlepper Frog" With a OM603 TBO360 turbo ( To be intercooled someday )( Kalifornistani emissons )
white 79 300SD 200K'ish miles "Farfegnugen" (RIP - cracked crank)
desert storm primer 63 T-bird "The Undead" (long term hibernation)

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  #24  
Old 11-24-2010, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Ouch. Where do you live?
Edmonton, Canada.

Yesterday was -30C, and the radio guy said "third coldest place in the world today" but I'm guessing he's talking major cities, not the south pole. Doesn't matter, it's cold enough.

At about -40C (which equals -40F by the way) tires stay "square" for a block or two until they round out a bit. If you hit a curb, they shatter!

Some people say you can piss outside and it freezes before hitting the ground. I'm too afraid that something else might freeze so I don't try. Similarly strange is that horse's **** can explode mid-air before it hits the ground.

In all this I find my 603 and MBenz battery brutally robust. I can still start the car (with its 15w40 dino) after a long glow or two... all the way down to about -35C with no plug ins, after sitting 8 hours. After that all bets are off.
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  #25  
Old 11-24-2010, 07:39 PM
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It's going to be 0°F here tonight. I'll try and start the car and see what happens...
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1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
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  #26  
Old 11-24-2010, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Another interesting idea is heating the intake... which is what the Cummins use, if I understand correctly. I've seen used units on eBay.

Cheers
You do understand correctly. The use a heater on the intake air, no glow plugs.
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  #27  
Old 11-24-2010, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cirrusman View Post
It's going to be 0°F here tonight. I'll try and start the car and see what happens...
As per '83 300SD Owners Manual:

1) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position - but don't glow it.
2) Now, slowly floorboard and slowly release the foot feed pedal 2-3 times.
3) Glow a full-cycle, but do not crank - turn to OFF remove key.
4) Glow a second full-cycle and with your foot feed on-the-floorboard crank until the engine starts, and only slowly start to release the foot feed pedal as it runs without pressure from the foot feed.

If your battery is good and strong, the car should start.
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  #28  
Old 11-25-2010, 10:03 AM
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Just add Diesel.
 
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Turns out my battery wasn't good and strong and it didn't start... Guess I'll have to get me a new one. It felt as though it would've started if I had enough juice in it though...
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1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"
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1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT
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  #29  
Old 11-25-2010, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cirrusman View Post
Turns out my battery wasn't good and strong and it didn't start... Guess I'll have to get me a new one. It felt as though it would've started if I had enough juice in it though...

You might need one of these for a back up.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-jump-start-and-power-supply-38391.html



Charlie
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  #30  
Old 11-25-2010, 01:17 PM
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Real redneck car starting

OK, when I saw the title on this thread I immediately was reminded of an incident which I did not personally witness, but which left a big impression on me... I went to a large land grant university in the Midwest, majoring in Mechanical Engineering (perhaps I shouldn't confess that given the inevitable screw-ups which I report on this forum!). There was a professor on staff, whose name I thankfully cannot remember, but he inspired a bit of a cult following among the students. Students would occasionally be invited out to his rural property for instruction in various redneck arts.

IMPORTANT: I take no responsibility for what I'm about to relate. If you try this and it blows up in your face, don't send your lawyers after me. What follows is for amusement purposes only!

OK, the redneck way to start a car in below zero weather in central Illinois is as follows:

1. Fill an overturned trash can lid with unlighted charcoal briquets.
2. Get your oxy-acetylene torch in position near the car.
3. Light a match, drop it on the briquets, and slide the trash can lid under the oil pan.
4. Hit the oxygen and direct it at the match.
5. Foooom! instant briquet ignition!
6. Five minutes later get in car, turn key, and drive off.

I may actually have the details slightly wrong... for some reason I think he used liquid oxygen, but you get the idea.

Cheers,

Kurt

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