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  #16  
Old 11-29-2010, 10:10 PM
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I measured the resistance at the glow plug relay which all measure around 1.3-4 ohms. Correcting for a 0.3 ohm reading from the wires by themselves yields around 1 ohms resistance for the glow plugs. No glow plug was out of range. I had recently replaced my radiator last week and today i noticed that there was light splattering of coolant near the upper hose. I realized that I had forgotten to tighten the screw clamp on the upper hose. I refilled the reservoir and realized that I was down almost a gallon of mix. So perhaps being low on coolant and affected the ability to start on cold mornings. The car is parked outside in my driveway. I'll see tomorrow if it starts more easily with the added coolant. Note that being low on coolanr did not have an adverse (higher) affect on the operating temp. I will adjust the valves this weekend.

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  #17  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:06 PM
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Adjusted the valves this morning and with the added coolant, started easily.
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2010, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edge View Post
Adjusted the valves this morning and with the added coolant, started easily.
Please explain how the added coolant helped with the engine start.
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2010, 11:54 AM
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it was the valves being tight, not the coolant that caused the problem...
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2010, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
it was the valves being tight, not the coolant that caused the problem...
Yes, every intake and exhaust valve was too tight. I did not start it with the added coolant because I wanted to adjust the valves cold.
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  #21  
Old 12-01-2010, 12:19 PM
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Take a look at my recent thread about 617 cold start issues. I was getting that sort of thing - strong crank, good glowplugs, battery, etc. Car running great, strong, good power, high MPGs, etc., just at cold start would die after cranking and catching, then would be fine after that (maybe just a nailing or two though).

I pulled and reamed my GPs, tested compression cold, put new GPs in, and the first start was pretty strong and good. No failure or stall, even though it was colder.

As others will say, you have to bench test GPs. There can be issues which an ohm test cannot show, or that only show up once they start to heat.
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Current Diesels:
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1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
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1993 300SD (291k)
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Past Diesels:
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  #22  
Old 12-01-2010, 12:30 PM
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So far so good, starting strong. If I have further problems heading into winter, I'll pull the plugs and bench test. Thanks guys.
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83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
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98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
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  #23  
Old 12-01-2010, 12:37 PM
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I am having the exact same issues w/ my '81 240d...last night it got down to 20 degrees and the car would barely start. I replaced the glow plugs a few months ago but didn't know you were suppose to ream the holes. I am hoping that if I do this it will take car of my hard cold starts.

Also, my car is not equipped with a block heater. I was wondering how hard the stock ones are to install. I have seen magnetic ones that stick to the block, but I don't think those would do much good.
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Last edited by danton84; 12-01-2010 at 12:46 PM. Reason: more
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  #24  
Old 12-01-2010, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
it was the valves being tight, not the coolant that caused the problem...
That's what I woulda thought. But since he mentioned the coolant, I wanted to know what it had to do with it.
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  #25  
Old 12-01-2010, 01:38 PM
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Only proper way of checking the glow-plugs is visually SEEING them get hot....

Best way is by dropping out injectors and looking at them through injector holes, this way you're checking the whole elect. circuit and the plug itself.

Ive had plugs heat up,--But in the wrong place. The tip stayed dark, but the shank glowed,--which is no use as this is shielded in the head....

IF they aint glowing a Strong Bright Orange at the tip within 12 seconds, they aint good....

--Same applies to the loop-type although they may take longer to get to bright glow.
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  #26  
Old 12-01-2010, 01:55 PM
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Pulling the injectors to look at the glow plugs is a bit extreme. Have to remove injector lines, injectors, new heat shields, torque injectors, injector lines, bleed fuel system. That's crazy!
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  #27  
Old 12-01-2010, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Pulling the injectors to look at the glow plugs is a bit extreme. Have to remove injector lines, injectors, new heat shields, torque injectors, injector lines, bleed fuel system. That's crazy!
Nah, not really. I fit this in during Autumn /Winterisation....

Valve-clearances, Injector check/test, coolant and fluids, filter replacements, brake inspections, elect system and battery tests--Just the usual preparation work...

Haven't got to worry then, doing this every year before winter has Prolly saved me many a headache....
--Havent failed to start yet, or had any nasty surprises....
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W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

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  #28  
Old 12-01-2010, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Can some one please tell me where on earth this PEA BRAINED MORONIC idea of being able to test if GP's are good with a multi meter came from!
They clearly need to be sent a letter bomb.
Save your elcheapo test meter for finding shorts & open circuits not testing GP's.
Do you live under a rock down under?! This is a popular site in this hemisphere:

http://dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm

NOT saying this method is foolproof but it is a quick and dirty and much faster to get a guestimate. I am of the school that if it ain't broke, don't mess with! No problem starting now. I like to drive my diesels, you can make love to yours, ok?
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  #29  
Old 12-01-2010, 09:38 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by layback40 View Post
Can some one please tell me where on earth this PEA BRAINED MORONIC idea of being able to test if GP's are good with a multi meter came from!
They clearly need to be sent a letter bomb.
Save your elcheapo test meter for finding shorts & open circuits not testing GP's.
It's a good quick check to tell you if one is burnt out. My mechanic checks them in place by running current through an amp meter to each GP, that's probably better. I don't bother pulling them out unless I have some reason to believe there's a problem, then I would probably just replace it anyway.
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  #30  
Old 12-01-2010, 09:49 PM
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Im going to do the current clamp test as soon as I remember...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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