|
|
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
I measured the resistance at the glow plug relay which all measure around 1.3-4 ohms. Correcting for a 0.3 ohm reading from the wires by themselves yields around 1 ohms resistance for the glow plugs. No glow plug was out of range. I had recently replaced my radiator last week and today i noticed that there was light splattering of coolant near the upper hose. I realized that I had forgotten to tighten the screw clamp on the upper hose. I refilled the reservoir and realized that I was down almost a gallon of mix. So perhaps being low on coolant and affected the ability to start on cold mornings. The car is parked outside in my driveway. I'll see tomorrow if it starts more easily with the added coolant. Note that being low on coolanr did not have an adverse (higher) affect on the operating temp. I will adjust the valves this weekend.
__________________
85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold 83 300D Manganese Brown 109K 97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold 98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold 95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold 93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold 95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold 94 E320 White 127K, sold 85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold 84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold 99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease) 00 Honda S2000 Red (lease) 86 Mercedes 300E (sold) 84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold) |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Adjusted the valves this morning and with the added coolant, started easily.
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Please explain how the added coolant helped with the engine start.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
it was the valves being tight, not the coolant that caused the problem...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Yes, every intake and exhaust valve was too tight. I did not start it with the added coolant because I wanted to adjust the valves cold.
|
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Take a look at my recent thread about 617 cold start issues. I was getting that sort of thing - strong crank, good glowplugs, battery, etc. Car running great, strong, good power, high MPGs, etc., just at cold start would die after cranking and catching, then would be fine after that (maybe just a nailing or two though).
I pulled and reamed my GPs, tested compression cold, put new GPs in, and the first start was pretty strong and good. No failure or stall, even though it was colder. As others will say, you have to bench test GPs. There can be issues which an ohm test cannot show, or that only show up once they start to heat.
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#22
|
||||
|
||||
So far so good, starting strong. If I have further problems heading into winter, I'll pull the plugs and bench test. Thanks guys.
__________________
85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold 83 300D Manganese Brown 109K 97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold 98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold 95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold 93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold 95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold 94 E320 White 127K, sold 85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold 84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold 99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease) 00 Honda S2000 Red (lease) 86 Mercedes 300E (sold) 84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold) |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
I am having the exact same issues w/ my '81 240d...last night it got down to 20 degrees and the car would barely start. I replaced the glow plugs a few months ago but didn't know you were suppose to ream the holes. I am hoping that if I do this it will take car of my hard cold starts.
Also, my car is not equipped with a block heater. I was wondering how hard the stock ones are to install. I have seen magnetic ones that stick to the block, but I don't think those would do much good.
__________________
1981 240D Last edited by danton84; 12-01-2010 at 12:46 PM. Reason: more |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
That's what I woulda thought. But since he mentioned the coolant, I wanted to know what it had to do with it.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
Only proper way of checking the glow-plugs is visually SEEING them get hot....
Best way is by dropping out injectors and looking at them through injector holes, this way you're checking the whole elect. circuit and the plug itself. Ive had plugs heat up,--But in the wrong place. The tip stayed dark, but the shank glowed,--which is no use as this is shielded in the head.... IF they aint glowing a Strong Bright Orange at the tip within 12 seconds, they aint good.... --Same applies to the loop-type although they may take longer to get to bright glow.
__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year.... |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Pulling the injectors to look at the glow plugs is a bit extreme. Have to remove injector lines, injectors, new heat shields, torque injectors, injector lines, bleed fuel system. That's crazy!
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Valve-clearances, Injector check/test, coolant and fluids, filter replacements, brake inspections, elect system and battery tests--Just the usual preparation work... Haven't got to worry then, doing this every year before winter has Prolly saved me many a headache.... --Havent failed to start yet, or had any nasty surprises....
__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year.... |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
http://dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm NOT saying this method is foolproof but it is a quick and dirty and much faster to get a guestimate. I am of the school that if it ain't broke, don't mess with! No problem starting now. I like to drive my diesels, you can make love to yours, ok? |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Im going to do the current clamp test as soon as I remember...
__________________
Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|