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  #31  
Old 03-13-2011, 11:26 AM
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Last edited by gsxr; 03-15-2011 at 12:43 AM.
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  #32  
Old 03-13-2011, 08:53 PM
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It was definately more of a drop than "advertised" on this car. I just went out and used a long crowbar to see under the boot and I am indeed on the suspension stops . The car is not slammed or too low IMO. Here is close-up of the gap I still have. Probably 1/2 or so depending which way you look. It is exactly 13" from center of hub to bottom of fender lip.

Any suggestions?? What would happen if I remove the stops altogether or just left 1" of it? On a big pothole or dip it would likely bottom out a bit harder.

I took pictures of the stock and H&R springs side by side, but can't seem to find them now. There rear actually had a lager difference and drop than the front. If I remember the rear was a good 2". Of course the SLS overrides the height anyway.

Here is the current gap, but may go lower?? once the stops are removed or shortened
Attached Thumbnails
124 front control arm bushings and replacement....snag-p1080131.jpg   124 front control arm bushings and replacement....snag-p1080132.jpg  
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  #33  
Old 03-14-2011, 09:56 AM
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  #34  
Old 03-14-2011, 10:24 AM
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Thanks for this info Dave! I didn't even realize 1) the shock would have so little travel and sit on the stop and 2) there were multiple stops available!

I DO have the tall 96mm stops installed. Can I just cut down the ones I have (quick and easy)??? There may be a rough edge though......Otherwise I will purchase the 75's right away. My question is if the 21mm difference enough (13/16")

I see that if I go to the shortest (70mm), it says (or you say), I may requre flared fenders. I have rolled the fender lips, but I don't want the wheel traveling that high up and bang my fender!!!

Depending how things go, I may have to put in my 23mm spring shims or maybe 17's (I have the 8mm now)......errrrr....more work!

The ride height now is perfect in my eyes (for looks that is )

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Last edited by 1stbenznc; 03-14-2011 at 10:58 AM.
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  #35  
Old 03-14-2011, 12:34 PM
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  #36  
Old 03-14-2011, 01:11 PM
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You are right -I guess it'll be a bit of trial and error + time to see how the car settles. I will cut them down for now and see what it looks like and how big the gap is or isn't. Even though it is softer there will be some protection there. I should have room for wheel travel with the rolled fenders - it will be close but, just enough.

In a year I will forget how much work it all was, and be ready to do it again or make some bigger adjustments

I want both - The right look and decent drivability. It will handle/respond better than stock so I am still ahead. Most of my cars over the years have been stiff or on sport suspension, so I am definately not looking for the MB cushy ride (the seats are soft enough!) We have lots of twisty country backroads here, so a canyon carver is more my style!

Thanks for all your help Dave! I really appreciate it. You really know your Sh%#!

edit -NEVER MIND I SEE POST #17
Last thing - I think I remember you talking about allignments and the dealer should do it -Is that right? Something about right tools (spreader bar). If so what was the specs they should use? Sporline? is there a number to reference to them? Sometime they don't know what they are doing unless you thell them.
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  #37  
Old 03-14-2011, 02:43 PM
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It is a simple matter to bottom-out one corner, just lift a rear corner at the jack point on the rocker, the diagonally-opposite corner will bottom out easily with your short travel.
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  #38  
Old 03-14-2011, 03:03 PM
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Oh yeah - dealer alignment only, and specify you want it to Sportline specs (there was a Sportline wagon offered in Europe, but I think the Sportline sedan specs are the same). On a side note, when the car is lowered this much, you may get excessive wear on the inside of the rear tires. Ask for a copy of the alignment printout and see what the numbers are. At -2° or more you are likely to have at least some wear problems. Camber & toe correction is another fun discussion...

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  #39  
Old 03-14-2011, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
It is a simple matter to bottom-out one corner, just lift a rear corner at the jack point on the rocker, the diagonally-opposite corner will bottom out easily with your short travel.
Good point Jeff!! I will check that once I fix the stop and see where the tire travels in regard to the fender

Dave- I know the wear on my 330ci was bad on the inside with sport suspension and 19x9's on the back! There were kits to fix it, but not sure about these cars..... Again, another topic

I will let them know about the specs for the alignment
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  #40  
Old 03-14-2011, 03:29 PM
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http://www.k-mac.com/pages/newprods/mercedes/mercedes_04.htm

^^^^The other conversation^^^^^

Dave is awesome...if he had a nickel for every question he has answered for me, he would have enough to buy my Lorinser bumper (I'd give it to you if I could afford it, and didn't want it myself so badly).

1stbenz, this thread is valuable for a lot of us! Thanks for posting your results so thoroughly.
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  #41  
Old 03-14-2011, 03:30 PM
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Been following this thread close. In my sedan I just installed Bilstein yellow HD's and H&R springs. The front is too low.

I'm hoping that getting the thickest front spring pads will do the trick.

Dave do you have the spring pad part #s? Are they dealer only?

Once I'm happy with the height, dealer alignment here I come.

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  #42  
Old 03-14-2011, 07:54 PM
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surely this is going to rub, even under 'normal' driving? looks like a combo of ET number too big and/or rim too wide, plus lowering. i like the look from side view, but you have to be able to drive the car without the tires hitting the bodywork. this doesn't look possible in the photo below.

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  #43  
Old 03-14-2011, 08:38 PM
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  #44  
Old 03-14-2011, 08:56 PM
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There are many guys on this site that I have learned a lot from! Super info here....

The spring pads can be bought aftermarket- maybe fastlane; although I keep seeing the 8mm and not the others (13,18,23mm)

As for rubbing - the picture is a bit deceiving. From the pic above it looks like the wheels and tires stick out in the front.....but I don't roll that way. Always tucked in....always!.

Here are some better pictures (wheel is turned just a little)

The wheels are 17x8 with 38 ET. About as tight and perfect as you can get IMO. From 2003-2005 (I think) E350 and E500 225/45 tires Hollander 65332 ebay find.





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  #45  
Old 03-14-2011, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stbenznc View Post
The spring pads can be bought aftermarket- maybe fastlane; although I keep seeing the 8mm and not the others (13,18,23mm)
Yeah, they'll usually turn up if you search by the part number in the text file... may not appear if you use the catalog function. If Fastlane doesn't have them, I know several other vendors do offer them.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stbenznc View Post
The wheels are 17x8 with 38 ET. About as tight and perfect as you can get IMO. From 2003-2005 (I think) E350 and E500 225/45 tires Hollander 65332 ebay find.
I used to have that exact same size wheel, made by Carat... sold them a while ago (should have kept them, but oh well). Ideally they should have a 235-45, tire but a 225-45 with rim flange protector does work ok. The offset is great, the wheel is pulled in as far as possible which helps with clearance. However for this combo fender rolling and fender spacers are a requirement. Info is in this PDF file, specifically section C. I don't have any really good photos but click here to check 'em out. No need to buy the fancy AMG spacers, just duplicate the kit using the dimensions shown in the picture. These spacers are more critical when you have the wide side moulding installed (stock on all 90-up models). The strut travel limiter shown in the AMG document was intended for AMG/Sportline ride height and 75mm buffers; since you are below that point I'm not sure it would help your situation....




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Last edited by gsxr; 03-15-2011 at 12:41 AM.
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