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  #1  
Old 11-26-2010, 07:28 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Bumping the engine

Hi,

I know this has been discussed before, but searching via phone isn't helping me much.

For a w123, what is the best way to turn the engine electrically, for compression testing or valve adjustment? I don't have a device to do it, but I guess it is really two wires, right? What do I jumper to do it?

Thanks!

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #2  
Old 11-26-2010, 08:34 PM
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on the passanger's fender near the battery, three screws in a junction block with a plastic cover. jumper one of the large screws to the small screw.
most 240's don't have it though. for a 240, you'd need to attach the wires to the starter solenoid itself...
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  #3  
Old 11-26-2010, 08:48 PM
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For a valve adjustment I use the crank bolt, you can be much more precise with rotating the cam to the correct position. It's 27mm socket.
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:24 AM
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For valve adjustment, I use the key. I can look through the gap under the open hood with the valve cover off and see the front couple lobes on the cam, so I can see how far I'm bumping the engine over. I haven't done a compression test, but I'd probably use the key and a helper.
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  #5  
Old 11-27-2010, 06:46 AM
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See Crank shaft front?
for the crankshaft manual option
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
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  #6  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:38 AM
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I typically do turn the engine by the 27mm on the crank. However it doesnt help for compression, and getting up and down doing valves is annoying.

I think for valves from now on Ill remove the GPs to make turning easier and be able to visually examine them.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #7  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:56 AM
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Turning by hand give you more control, less power. One poster year or 2 back broke a valve when adjusting them, here's how.

Was adjusting a tight valve, kept turning the cap CCW (wrong way) to create clearance, which he never got. HMM, not sure why. Had the wife bump the starter so he could go on to the next one. BANG! Cap and part of the valve flew off who knows where.

He had turned the cap enough to create a TDC interference with the piston. Winding the motor manually would have caught the mistake w/o harm. =8-0
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  #8  
Old 11-27-2010, 09:34 AM
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I'm sorry to have gotten it the effect of the Bowden cable and the vacuum control the wrong way round - I've added an Edit in my post (#2) with an apology!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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