!

Thanks............but, I can get the neighbor to assist if I really need it. The solution with the jack sounds quite plausible.

Brian,
When I replaced the starter on my 86 300sdl, I did it solo. It came out from underneath the car and back in just the way it came out. Of course I had to remove the underbody shields, but it was a very easy replacement with my car up on my Rhino ramps.
I disconnected the wiring from above, but everything else was under the car.
By the way it was a heavy starter. I replaced it with a rebuilt Bosch and all is well 3 years later.
My symptoms were a spinning of the starter but no engagement on the flywheel.
Good Luck!

__________________
John
1986 300sdl
1985 380se

Same here. Had my dad to help me but only room for one to work at a time. Starter was unbolted and then we had to just wiggle it and fight it and fight it and it finally came out the bottom, rotated into an almost vertical position, and slipped through the steering arms and such. I think we actually had to rotate the steering wheel to get some stuff out of the way... but it's been too long to remember the details. Remembered thinking how we hoped we didn't have to do that again -- and then we DID have to do it again because somehow or another the rebuilder had gotten the wire connections on... rotated 90 degrees from where they belonged, or something nasty like that. Ended up swapping some parts from our old starter onto the new one before it would fit, I think. It's been too long to usefully remember, but I do know it came out the bottom.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Its probably just a stuck solenoid, especially since it is colder out and the grease inside probably thickened. Happened on my brother's 300D with two different starters until we finally ditched the Autozone rebuilds and got a German rebuilt unit, has been perfect since. Smacking the solenoid while trying to start it generally got it going however. Its pretty hard to actually damage the starter, as the casing is quite thick...

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

On my white wagon I have to keep the key turned all the way to the right for several seconds before the starter will engage. This in only when it is cold.
Has always done this.....

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

As I said, the grease in the solenoid thickens, making it harder for the firing pin to travel. Holding it those 7 seconds probably caused it to heat up a bit and keep at it, so it slowly moved over and engaged the starter motor. Makes perfect sense.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

+1. It would be my honor to help out.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Went out today and rigged a voltmeter to view during crank. Set it up on the #2 socket in the glow plug wiring harness. This is downstream of the NSS and, I would conclude that the starter is seeing 12V at the solenoid if the glow plug relay also sees 12V on the violet wire.

Naturally, it cranked without a problem and 12V appeared on the meter.............

I really enjoy intermittent issues............as you may recall with my rather expensive primary filter episode.

The older a car gets, the more they usually accumulate - BTDT myself on any car I put substantial mileage on if it's any consolation. Some of the issues you can live with - but most seem to border on dangerous to your well-being is why they can prompt you to trade 'em off or sell. It is indeed frustrating when problems cannot be solved on such a fine vehicle as a Mercedes-Benz, since owning one although aged, has tremendous inherent value to the owner, even if not to anyone else.

Sounds like a PITA. My old jeep had an intermittent NSS issue for about a year before it finally died completely and I was able to diagnose it.

We are fortunate on our old Benz's that we can still diagnose things with a VOM versus a computer. I recently purchased a 2010 Dodge Challenger SRT8 and after 1600 miles my transmission missed a shift from 2-3 while doing 15 mph. Yes my automatic transmission missed a shift. It clunked and then the CEL came on and stayed on until the Dodge dealer put it on its computer to diagnose and reset. Dodge said it was a fluke and if it happens again they will drop the pan and see if there is any trash in there or it may need a new transmission control computer.
Kind of disconcerting for this to happen to a brand new car which is basically a Mercedes E class with a Challenger body and 6.1 liter Hemi.
While at the dealer I looked at the suspension and rear end and tranny etc and it is a Mercedes transmission built in Indiana, and a Getrag rear end, Bilstein shocks, Mercedes IRS and Mercedes E class front suspension. It all makes sense since the Challenger was based on the Chrysler 300C which was designed when Daimler Chrysler was one company.
It is an absolute joy ti tinker and work on y 86 300sdl or my 67 VW Beetle. Purely mechanical with easy to diagnose electronics.

__________________
John
1986 300sdl
1985 380se

Brian - there is an outboard connector bolt on the + side battery post. Make sure that connector is clean/tight. The situation you describe plagued me for a month until I accidently tapped the connector.

__________________
BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif
15 VW Passat TDI
00 E420
98 E300 DT
97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME!
97 S500
97 E300D
86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D
86 300SDL
(o\|/o)

This might seem too simple. Clean the negative battery cable and post with some kind of abrasive. On many occasions I have had the same thing happen- lights on- radio on- turn key nothing. It will usually happen when you get the first cold damp or rainy day of the winter. I think that there is a build up of invisible corrosion on the post of the battery. Less and less of the cable is making contact with the post. The smaller and smaller area of contact will allow some current to flow, for lights, but not enough to crank the engine. Imagine if you connected your starter with a little thin wire, nothing would happen.There may be some other process at work, I don't know. However I have found this simple solution to work many times over the years. I now try to clean both of my battery cables and post as part of my pre winter prep. Good luck! Dave

Really great point.

During the summer I spent over 2 hours with a friend on his no-start 2005 Maxima. Same exact symptoms.

I tore that car apart and did not even think of this.

Tow truck guy comes, first thing he checks is the battery terminals.

Car starts right up.