1995 E300D belt tensioner - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tlynch · #16 12-01-2010, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alphadeltaromeo

Exactly. Did this on my 95 this summer and it was a breeze. You'll greatly appreciate not pulling the radiator, etc.

Thanks, adr. You guys are making it sound easy. I'm starting to get less nervous about trouble with the water pump pulley.

Tom

tlynch · #17 12-04-2010, 03:10 PM

My belt and damper arrived. JRImrie confirmed that the radiator does not need to come out.

How about the fan and shroud? In another thread, the recommendation was to pull fan and shroud to create space. Overkill?

I'm secretly (OK, overtly) hoping that unhooking the spring creates enough clearance for the lower damper bolt that I don't have to mess with the water pump pulley, and that there is enough room to leave the fan alone.

Tom

TMAllison · #18 12-04-2010, 04:42 PM

Is hard to get teh fan off with the shroud in the way but it can be done. Quite a bit of room can be made by removing the front crossmember and pulling the rad/fan assembly forward an inch.

If your damper bolts threads stick out past the pivot arm framework file em off. You don't have to remove that bolt; you only need to retract it enough to get teh damper out.

Parrot of Doom · #19 12-04-2010, 06:14 PM

I've changed mine several times, the lower bolt almost clears the pulley; on mine, it rubs against the pulley slightly. Not enough to create any problems though, the belt doesn't touch the edge of the pulley.

Its a pain of a job, Mercedes could have designed that a little better I think.

tlynch · #20 12-04-2010, 06:32 PM

Thanks, guys. I never got started today. Helping with senior project and Christmas tree shopping intervened. Maybe after I have some light to work with tomorrow I can get this done.

It looks like I have room to work the belt around the fan, so it all comes down to how well I can work around the water pump pulley. I think.

Tom

tlynch · #21 12-11-2010, 02:18 PM

I'm getting back to this project today. I already removed the upper bolt on the tensioner so that I can swing it aside and see the rest of the operating arena. My plan was to unhook the vertical spring to take load off the tensioner, but looking at it, I'm not sure of the best method. I didn't have much luck creating movement by hand, and I'd like to have a plan before I just go tapping out bolts to remove the spring, only to find I can't get the spring back on. I am also keenly interested in not breaking that plastic block at the top of the spring.

I am reviewing the post by TMAllison, JRImrie and alphadeltaromeo to make sure I am doing this the easy way. Let me know if I understand your methodology. It isn't clear to me if you use the 17mm bolt to torque the tensioner so that you can take load off the vertical spring so you can remove it, or if you are just taking the tensioner off. This allows you to unhook the vertical spring to allow the tensioner to move so that you can reach the bottom damper bolt more easily.

I have not yet availed myself of a 17mm bolt and nuts, so I think I am behind the curve.

Thanks for the help!
Tom

TMAllison · #22 12-11-2010, 03:06 PM

The spring is removed by removing the nut on the top bolt and then putting a large screwdriver or 3/8" extension into the hole in the plastic lever arm and pulling back on the spring so that you can slide the top bolt out, at which time you release all the tension on the spring. You don't even need to remove the spring unless you want to.

The 17mm hex is only needed if you are removing the tension pivot arm for some reason.....

tlynch · #23 12-11-2010, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

The spring is removed by removing the nut on the top bolt and then putting a large screwdriver or 3/8" extension into the hole in the plastic lever arm and pulling back on the spring so that you can slide the top bolt out, at which time you release all the tension on the spring. You don't even need to remove the spring unless you want to.

The 17mm hex is only needed if you are removing the tension pivot arm for some reason.....

Thanks!

I have confirmed that the lower bolt is too long to let me remove the damper. I already filed the end of the bolt that stuck out the back. I filed a little on the bolt head, too. No luck.

If I can toggle the tensioner, I may be able to hit a slightly deeper part of the back of the water pump pulley. That means unhooking spring is my next try.

To push down on the pivot arm, do I need to undo that set screw? If I don't, I don't see how the arm will move and make any change to the spring.

Tom

tlynch · #24 12-11-2010, 04:12 PM

Terry:

I figured out the pivot. I thought that was a set screw, not the pivot point.

Taking tension off bought me another 1/18-3/16 inch with the bolt, but it still won't let the damper out. I filed a little more on the head, but still no go. I don't think I can count the number of bad words I have thought about whoever designed that particular bolt. I'm using 4 languages to curse him, just to inflate the number.

Time for a break, some ibuprofen, and some contemplation.

I should be able to replace the belt, at least. The busted damper is my real problem, though.

Tom

TMAllison · #25 12-11-2010, 04:22 PM

You want to try to file some thread off...... Have to tighten it back up so it sticks out the end of the pivot arm to do so.

Make sure the bolt head is below the rim of the WP pulley. Is tight quarters.

tlynch · #26 12-11-2010, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

You want to try to file some thread off...... Have to tighten it back up so it sticks out the end of the pivot arm to do so.

Make sure the bolt head is below the rim of the WP pulley. Is tight quarters.

Terry:

I sure appreciate the help. I filed threads off flush with the tensioner as step one. I'll be filing part of the tensioner to keep going on that end. I found the deep part of the pulley. It sure is easier with the spring off.

It is just irritating that the tensioner can pivot only until that bolt is even with the WP pulley rim. Would another 3/8 inch have killed them? Or an 1/8 inch shorter bolt? Sigh.

Guess I'll file until my daughters get back from the hardware store with my 17mm bolt.

Thanks for all the info!
Tom

whunter · #27 12-11-2010, 04:51 PM

graphic.

tlynch · #28 12-11-2010, 05:58 PM

Thanks, Roy.

My problem is definitely reducing bolt length.

I think I am done filing for the night. Time to get ready for my daughter's choir's progressive dinner, and the nightly fund raising for Brown Santa. If I don't get there with the file pretty quick tomorrow morning, then off comes the tensioner.

My daughter made a hardware store run for the 17mm headed bolt, so I may have the "tool" for it.

Thank you all for your help!

Tom

KarTek · #29 12-11-2010, 06:58 PM

For "giggles", I went out just now and removed the tensioner on my car. I had very little trouble and I was working in the dark, it's cold and raining...

Here are a couple shots, hope it helps you some way:

The whole process took about 10 minutes.

tlynch · #30 12-12-2010, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

For "giggles", I went out just now and removed the tensioner on my car. I had very little trouble and I was working in the dark, it's cold and raining...

...
The whole process took about 10 minutes.

Show off!

I definitely appreciate you taking time to provide those shots, KarTek. And in the rain!

I don't think I am doing any thing different from what you showed. With the spring off the tensioner, I can pivot it so that the lower bolt head aligns with the deepest recess on the water pump pulley. It just doesn't clear the damper. Tantalizingly close, but no removal. Maybe if it was raining here...

The only nuance I notice is that you have the bolt angled so that the head is to the left when you get the damper out. I'll try that tomorrow. No telling what detail makes a difference.

Whenever it goes back in, it will, by God, be short enough that it can come out easily next time.

Thanks!
Tom