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  #1  
Old 11-27-2010, 03:20 PM
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1995 E300D belt tensioner

Wish me luck.

My rattle and squeak are due to a missing bushing on the belt tension damper (the part on the left as you face the block). I know I need to replace that part. It looks like Fastlane has a couple of choices for this part (W0133-162630). New belt will go on, too.

I have been reading related threads to prepare. I know that I will need to remove the fan and shroud. I am prepared for the possibility that I will need to loosen the water pump pulley for clearance on the lower bolt.

My question is whether there are other items that would be good to replace while I am in there. As I mentioned, new belt is certain. One thread mentioned replacing the spring at the same time (the part on the right). If I can find a source for that I can do it, too. It looks like it hooks in, so I hope it is easier than I expect the damper to be.

Thanks for any suggestions. Helpful advice is also welcome.

Regards,
Tom

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Last edited by whunter; 02-02-2014 at 07:20 AM. Reason: tweak title
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:05 PM
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On many of these the lower bolt on the damper shock can be backed out below the pulley rim (pull spring so you can push everything downward) just enough to remove the shock; if your damper won't sneak past the bolt do yourself a favor and tighten it back up and file 1/16" off the end of it and try again. LOTS better use of time than pulling half the front end like WIS says to do.......
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85' 300d Turbodiesel 311K
99' E300 Turbodiesel 311.5K and counting NO MORE. (Totaled by Indie's liability Ins after a major oops)
09' E320 Bluetec 66k
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  #3  
Old 11-27-2010, 08:39 PM
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Is the '95 front end different as far as the engine/radiator relationship than the 210? I've never had any trouble removing the belt and damper. Just be careful when removing the belt so you're not dragging it across the radiator fins.
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2010, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
On many of these the lower bolt on the damper shock can be backed out below the pulley rim (pull spring so you can push everything downward) just enough to remove the shock; if your damper won't sneak past the bolt do yourself a favor and tighten it back up and file 1/16" off the end of it and try again. LOTS better use of time than pulling half the front end like WIS says to do.......
Thanks!

I'm pretty committed to not pulling the radiator. I'll pull the fan if I have to, though. If the bolt won't clear the pulley on the way out, I definitely plan to shorten it so that it will next time.

Regards,
Tom
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2010, 11:52 PM
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I did mine last week on a 95 E300D. The radiator does not need to com out. To get the 17mm female hex out of the tensioner go to Lowes and buy a bolt and three nuts that are 17mm align and tighten them up and use a wrench. the serpinetine belt will come off around the fan. Use a coat hanger to pull the belt through to the tensioner pulley.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2010, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRImrie View Post
I did mine last week on a 95 E300D. The radiator does not need to com out. To get the 17mm female hex out of the tensioner go to Lowes and buy a bolt and three nuts that are 17mm align and tighten them up and use a wrench. the serpinetine belt will come off around the fan. Use a coat hanger to pull the belt through to the tensioner pulley.
Why not use a 17mm hex bit?
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2010, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRImrie View Post
I did mine last week on a 95 E300D. The radiator does not need to com out. To get the 17mm female hex out of the tensioner go to Lowes and buy a bolt and three nuts that are 17mm align and tighten them up and use a wrench. the serpinetine belt will come off around the fan. Use a coat hanger to pull the belt through to the tensioner pulley.
Thanks for the info! So the tensioner has to come off in order to replace the belt? I had been hoping that I could fit the new belt in, then tighten up after the new damper is in.

One thing I am still not quite clear on is how to adjust the tension once I have the damper and belt replaced. I'll figure that out while the parts are on the way.

Thanks!
Tom
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2010, 12:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRImrie View Post
I did mine last week on a 95 E300D. The radiator does not need to com out. To get the 17mm female hex out of the tensioner go to Lowes and buy a bolt and three nuts that are 17mm align and tighten them up and use a wrench. the serpinetine belt will come off around the fan. Use a coat hanger to pull the belt through to the tensioner pulley.
Am I correct in thinking that if you pull the tensioner, then you don't have problems with the water pump pulley when you undo the lower bolt on the damper?

Tom
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2010, 01:34 AM
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The hex bit must be a special stubby socket. If you can find one somewhere fine but the ratchet still may hit the radiator. The bolt with nuts worked fine for me and there was plenty of room. FWIW I could not find a stubby hex socket or for that matter a hex socket that size. I suppose I could have ordered one from mercedes or bought their tools for $$$. The bolt and nuts cost less than $2.00.

The tensioner does not have to come off to replace either the spring or the shock or the belt. The tensioner does however break and I would replace it. The tensioner spring tensions the belt no adjustment is needed. Put the belt on the tensioner pulley first smooth side on pulley. I used a coat hanger to pull it through. Once the belt is on the pulley the belt virtually falls into place all you have to do is put it on the pulleys. An aside I understand that someone makes a sturdier tensioner if you can find one.
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2010, 01:39 AM
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When you let the tension off the tensioner moves upward and you just remove the bolt. I do not think there is any interference with changing the spring (note my spring broke probably should be replaced) or the shock. I replaced the spring, shock was OK, tensioner and spring.
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2010, 02:45 AM
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Just noticed the picture you have posted is not the shock/damper it is the tension spring.
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  #12  
Old 12-01-2010, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRImrie View Post
Just noticed the picture you have posted is not the shock/damper it is the tension spring.
It is a bad picture. Because the sun was so bright, you can't see anything in the shadows. You CAN see where a bushing is missing, and the upper attachment is rattling around on the bolt. I understand this to be the damper, and the more visible part on the right (with hooks, not eyes) to be the spring.

I have been wrong before, though.

Thanks for your help!
Tom
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2010, 01:53 PM
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You dont need to pull the tensioner pivot arm (17mm hex). Just remove the spring to drop tension and then remove the damper and replace it.
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85' 300d Turbodiesel 311K
99' E300 Turbodiesel 311.5K and counting NO MORE. (Totaled by Indie's liability Ins after a major oops)
09' E320 Bluetec 66k
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2010, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
You dont need to pull the tensioner pivot arm (17mm hex). Just remove the spring to drop tension and then remove the damper and replace it.
Thanks, Terry!

Tom
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2010, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
You dont need to pull the tensioner pivot arm (17mm hex). Just remove the spring to drop tension and then remove the damper and replace it.
Exactly. Did this on my 95 this summer and it was a breeze. You'll greatly appreciate not pulling the radiator, etc.
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:59 PM
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