'99 E300td...check engine light?
 

My "check engine" light just poped on. What checks do I need to make to isolate the problem? Everything seems to be running normally.

thanks
Bill

If I remember correctly this car as an OBDII port that you can plug a code scanner into to get the engine code(s) - I would do that first then report back with that info.

Advance auto or O'Reilly's or other McParts places will do it for free. Or give you the reader to do it yourself. Like MercFan said, get the codes read and post them here. There are quite a few W210 owners or former owners here on the forum who can help you out.

Had the code read. It's PO400 which I'm told is an EGR Flow problem. What's the suggested fix please? And should this cause any problems on a 500 mile trip I'm suppose to take in next several days?

thanks
Bill

Can someone please help with the above?

thanks

I believe the egr issue could be a simple vacuum connection loose. look over your engine compartment for loose or cracked vacuum lines.
if you take a trip with this error you will be running on limp mode, and will have lackluster performance.

Thanks for reply. Looked over top of engine and don't see any problems with the vacum lines. Should I look underneath as well? Owners manual says check engine light on indicates problem with fuel injection sysem. Would this egr fault be part of the fuel injection system?

Bill

Check teh vacuum lines from the egr (between charge air pipe and bottom of intake manifold) to the transducer mounted on the driver side wheel well. Make certain the "vent" exiting the transducer is open.

The vacuum lines from the egr to the transducer look good. The hose that comes off the bottom of transducer goes to a plastic something that looks like a filter? How do I check the vent? Is it where this hose comes off the bottom of the transducer?

That is the filter, it vents to atmosphere. Just make sure it isnt clogged as that can trip a code.

Did you clear the code and it returned?

Terry is correct, that filter is the vent. Even though it can look clean I would recommend you buy a replacement and replace it. Any small restriction will trip the 0400 code you had and those filters (there is one on the wastegate actuator for the turbo too) are cheap and easy to replace and solve the problem most of the time. Buy two, replace them both, reset the codes and drive.

How do I make sure it isn't clogged? The filters that nhdoc referred to need to be ordered and won't get here for several days. In the meantime how can I check further?

I did clear the code the other day and it returned right away.

Bill

Do a forum search here for P0400. There are many threads already on this exact code that should answer your questions.

Did a forum search under Po400 but didn't see an answer to the above?

Unplug the line at the transducer and blow through the hose. You can drive without the vent for a few days too.

You may want to also rule out the vacuum transducer itself as the cause by swapping it with the one from the turbo's wastegate (they are identical). If the code changes to the wastegate code you will know the problem is with the transducer itself but if it stays with the EGR system it is either the vent/filter or the EGR valve itself causing the problem. You can test the EGR valve using a mity-vac if you have one or can buy one at Sears. Basically it is a small vacuum pump to test these vacuum driven devices. If it holds vacuum and you can hear a change in the way the engine runs (it might stall when you actuate it) then you will know the EGR valve is OK...but first I would try the swap and see what happens.

Sometimes swapping them will eliminate codes completely (at least temporarily) because each system has different parameters for setting off a CEL and the EGR might be more sensitive than the wastegate for a particular parameter - so you might just get lucky and fix it (for now) by doing the swap.

I really appreciate your help! Going to be gone for a couple of days but will report back on what I get figured out.

thanks again,
Bill

Need more help. Blew out the line from the EGR transducer to the vent filter and actually replaced the filter…still threw the P0400. Then switched the two transducers, cleared the DTC and it still throws the P0400.

Suggestions please.
thanks

[QUOTE=wjob;2648559]Need more help. Blew out the line from the EGR transducer to the vent filter and actually replaced the filter…still threw the P0400. Then switched the two transducers, cleared the DTC and it still throws the P0400.

Can someone please help with the above question

thanks

Need more help. Blew out the line from the EGR transducer to the vent filter and actually replaced the filter…still threw the P0400. Then switched the two transducers, cleared the DTC and it still throws the P0400. What do I do next?

Can someone please help with the above question

thanks[/QUOTE]

I'd suggest pulling the egr valve and checking it out along with all the plumbing that is attached to it.

Assume I have to pull the IM to get at the valve? Any other test I can make to be absolutely sure it is the valve before pulling things apart? Any chance that electrical connection to the transducer could be causing the problem?

You might consider just defeating EGR. There is a thread in this forum or same information covered here ( http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/w210-om606-962-egr-delete-t-1871.html) might have to cut and paste that into your browser. Easier than it looks and requires about $3.00 of parts from Radioshack. Once installed the computer "thinks" it's causing the EGR to open and let that lovely oily soot into your intake while eliminating the code. Of course if your EGR is stuck open then you still have something to fix when you have time to pull the manifold.

If I did this then my valve would always be closed, right? What effect would this have on performance? Sounds like it makes sense?

Yes, the EGR valve would then stay closed and no more hot, soot laden exhaust will be sent into your intake. We really don't notice any difference in performance with ours but in theory I suppose the cars might make a little more power since the temperature of the intake air will be lower than it was with exhaust blended in. Reduction in power because of hotter intake air is one of the reasons the heavy duty engine guys like Cat/Cummins, etc., are using "cooled EGR" systems as part of their current emissions strategies.

Thanks for all this! Believe I mentioned mine is a '99 E300TD and assume yours is also, the one where you disabled the valve? Where do I find that collection of wires that I will need to tap into? Sounds like it's either going this route or pulling the IM, etc. to get at the valve? Any way I can get a look inside the valve to determine whether it is stuck open without taking the IM off? I had asked before is there any chance the transducer electrical connection could be the problem?

Fred B, can you help with this, or anyone else?

thanks

Kartek on this site created an EGR defeat for the 98 and 99. Search for it here.

Make certain you are looking at his turbo thread as the non turbo 606 is a different animal and much easier to do.

Any way I can get a look inside the valve to determine whether it is stuck open without taking the IM off?

I had asked before is there any chance the transducer electrical connection could be the problem and if so, how would I check?

thanks

Answers to these 2 questions, please

WIS would have the tests and pin mumbers used to measure current/resistance at idle and high idle at the ECU harness. There are +/- 60 pins. The test is more involved than just measuring voltage to the transducer; will go into measuring vacuum output at the vac pump under other variables, etc. It will be 6 or 8 if this, then thats.

I don't have the tests.

Kartek (Evan) could tell you at what point the EGR opens and closes and what the ECU monitors. He disected this system.

Here's the EGR schedule from a 2007 posting by ScottMcPhee:

The exhaust gases are recirculated in line with the map stored in the IFI control module (N3/7) as soon as the following criteria are met:

* Coolant temperature between 60 °C and 110 °C
* Battery voltage 11 - 14 V
* Engine speed < 3000 rpm
* Fuel rack travel < 9 mm

These were my two questions:

"1. Any way I can get a look inside the valve to determine whether it is stuck open without taking the IM off?

2. I had asked before is there any chance the transducer electrical connection could be the problem and if so, how would I check?"

Still no answer to #1?

Re.#2, Based on replies, sounds like due to involvement of verifying a healthy transducer electrical feed, I should just proceed to pull IM to get at EGR valve, then open valve to see if it is stuck?

thanks

Sorry for the delay, haven't been on here for awhile. We disabled the EGR's on both our '98 and '99 (identical as regards this issue). The wiring referenced in the "how to" thread is under the black plastic cover, under the hood on passenger side at base of windshield. If you jack up the car, remove the belly pans, remove the aluminum charge air pipe (from the intercooler to the EGR housing) you might be able to look up into the EGR housing to see if the valve is stuck. At that point you might just as well take the manifold off since it's just those 20 or so torx bolts along the head, a really annoying clamp where the EGR pipe attaches to the EGR housing, and couple of vacuum lines.

If I remember correctly, our cars go into limp mode if this particular code is tripped. Much reduced power and speed, higher shift points, etc. I'm surprised that doesn't happen to yours.

Thanks Fred for the info. Believe someone had mentioned the limp mode before as a result of the EGR fault. My passing gear (turbo kick) defintely has been effected but I easily cruise at 80mph on interstate. Don't notice any difference in shift points or any other differences.

Re.#2, Based on replies, sounds like due to involvement of verifying a healthy transducer electrical feed, I should just not worry about that now and proceed to pull IM to get at EGR valve, then open valve to see if it is stuck? If valve isn't stuck, what do I check for?

thanks

Afraid I'm not much help besides what I've already suggested. The EGR valve itself is really simple - Just a vacuum diaphragm (follow the tube from the transducer) that pushes or pulls a little plunger to open a passage for the exhaust to flow into the EGR housing, which is bolted to the bottom of the intake manifold. I suppose the valve could be stuck open but I don't know for a fact that this would cause a code. There's a huge difference in performance when our cars are in limp mode but they've both been chipped so maybe the difference - limp versus normal operation - is greater. With the electronics defeated we gutted the EGR housings, plugged the holes, and removed the EGR pipe that runs around the back of the engine from the exhaust manifold to the EGR housing. Once you've had the manifold off you'll be an expert and find you can r/r it in no time. I suggest you soak all the glow plugs with PB blaster or similar while you've got access. Anything to help avoid having one stick/break is a good thing...trust me :)!

Had a thought. Can you think of any acess point on the EGR where I could get in with a shot of PB Blaster before pulling the IM, to hopefully loosen things up, how about where that vacum tube attaches to the EGR?

Do you suggest that I have new gaskets on hand when I pull the IM, plus any others?

"they've both been chipped"? are you referring to your wiring re-vamp?

Since the car is relatively new to me (about 150K miles) and I don't know how long ago the Glow Plugs were replaced, although all seem ok, probably would be smart to replace them. If I don't, guess it's still smart to give them a squirt? Any thoughts on what to replace them with?

FYI
 

The search must be for P0400 = P zero four zero zero

Q #1 - You could disconnect the charge air pipe form below and look up inside with a light. Wont be very rewarding.

Search Po400 too = P oh four zero zero

After you pull the IM you will probably find everything is pretty gunked up with greasy soot. Took me an hour to take things apart and 6 hours to clean it. i wouldn't mess with your GP's unless one is bad. Why tempt fate and snap one off that works?

More data
 

P0400 = EGR flow mulfunction: issues link thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/294936-p0400-%3D-egr-flow-mulfunction-issues-link-thread.html

..and I wouldn't change any glow plugs or even try to loosen them, just spray some PB Blaster, etc. at the threads while you have access. Couldn't hurt. Really only two gaskets involved - the intake manifold gasket and the square gasket with a bolt in each corner that goes between the intake manifold and the EGR housing. Both are rubber coated metal and should be replaced - as all gaskets should but of course gaskets are often re-used with success. I really don't think you'll accomplish anything by just trying to look. It'll be black and gunked up inside even if the EGR is working. Don't spray into the vacuum tube or its connection. That will just put whatever you spray all over the rubber diaphragm. No access to the moving shaft of the egr valve itself from that side. Review the links that whunter posted to be sure you've exhausted all other options first.