Oil leakage around gasket and oil cap
 

Hi all,

I have oil leakage again by the trans dip stick as well as near the outside of the oil filter cap and the breather tube. The oil coming out near the Trans dip stick seems to be the heaviest. Gasket is about 3 months old.

The oil seepage near the cap and the breather tube are light. Pics attached below. Thanks in advice for any advice.

How much blow-by does the motor have? With the oil cap removed and the motor running how much air is coming out? If excessive this could contribute to your leakage.

Not sure about the cam cover, but as mentioned blowby is the usual culprit for the oil cap and breather hose, assuming they are in good condition.

I used the pictured product when I had a similar issue with the oil cap, no more leaks there.

the 603 has a hole in the valve cover near the trans dipstick tube... if oil is exiting there, you have excessive blowby...

I had a similar oil leak around the breather tube on my 617. I installed a hose clamp and it fixed the problem.

I bought a new gasket for the oil cap, still leaked. I made my own from thicker gasket material = no more leaks. On the breather hose I used a rubber band made from tire inner tube as a constant tension clamp = no more leaks.

yes, on the 617, the tube hardens, and allows the ample blowby that's standard on our engines to leak, on many, an hose clamp will not solve it, I've put a light coating of wheel grease, and it seems to hold. I've also put black RTV on the nipple then the clamp, and not had a drip. you can also replace the breather tube with new rubber connectors on each end, and eliminate the leak also. I got mine from Phil on fastlane.:D
for the filler leaking, a new gasket can be ordered from fastlane at the BUY PARTS link above.
unfortunately, there is nothing to be done that will fix the leak by the dipstick tube on a 603... the hole is drilled into the valve cover.

Used it?

Where does it go?
What does it do?

I glued my breather hose onto the little chimney and bought a new gasket to go onto the oil fill cap. Still getting leakage from the fill cap. If your tonic fixes it...I wanna.

that looks like a tonic that cleans the engine... see what the LM site has to say about the product...

Liqui Moly MOTOR CLEAN (THE OLD ENGINE FLUSH) is a high-tech ceramic wear protection product for all engines and motor oils. Liqui Moly Motor Clean Engine Treatment is a product of Liqui Moly (GmbH), headquartered in Ulm in southern Germany. Liqui Moly manufactures lubricants and many other superbly engineered and formulated automotive products.

Today’s extended oil change intervals, smaller oil sumps, inadequate fuel quality, and lean burning engines can lead to the formation of the “dreaded black sludge” in modern engines. Liqui Moly Motor Clean’s highly effective detergents and dispersants dislodge the sludge and lacquers, and keep both solid and liquid contaminants in suspension until they are drained with the used motor oil during your oil change. After carrying out this type of prepared oil change, the fresh oil is able to realize its full performance potential .

Application: Add Liqui Moly Motor Clean to your engine oil BEFORE the oil change. After approx. 10 minutes idling, drain used oil, change the filter and fill with fresh oil. Liqui Moly Motor Clean comes in a can of 500ml (17ozs or ½ quart.) which is sufficient for engines holding 4 to 6 quarts of oil.


Lean burning Engine?
Small Oil Sump?
Extended oil Change?

Well, if it cleans, it cleans.

^ Yeah, that's it, worked for me.

... however, our oil coolers contain a large portion of oil in it. like 10% of the oil volume. when the oil is drained, some of the "cleaner" will be left in the cooler...
I'd be worried about leaving this stuff in my car.

Muleears,

Last time I checked using the paper on the open valve cover test, hardly any. But that was about a year ago. I'll try again.

Thanks to all others for the feedback.

Bob

is there any downside to filling the hole by the dipstick and drilling a new one, say, up top on the valve cover?