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  #1  
Old 12-04-2010, 12:44 PM
...much to learn...
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central VA
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Center Muffler Removal Question (82 240D)

Hi All,

This should be straightforward. My center muffler on my W123 is rusted away, and the rear muffler is no spring chicken either. The front pipe is rusty but seems solid, and I do not want to even touch the rusty bolts connecting it to the exhaust manifold.

So I am trying to remove the pipe/center muffler from where it connects to the front pipe, but it is hard to get any purchase on it. I have a propane torch but no welding equipment. I would love to be able to do this myself. The re-installation looks to be a cake walk. Any hints or working those rusty pipes apart?
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1982 240D (4-speed)
1988 Volvo 240DL (5-speed wagon)
1999 Volvo V70
2002 Volvo XC70 (the grocery getter)
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  #2  
Old 12-04-2010, 01:12 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cicero, Hamilton County, Indiana about 30 miles north of downtown Indianapolis
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I would say you are a good candidate for a new exhaust. If they are very rusty and well rusted together you probably can't get them apart. The 240D does have a smaller system then the 300D so that limits what you can find in the junk yard. However a couple of months ago I pulled a crossmenber off a 240D which I needed for my 617 Turbo installation and that little car had a like new exhaust. I also did get a like new exhaust from the pick and pull for my 300D. I couldn't believe it, that the paint wasn't even burned off. But the exhaust which I removed from my 240D, an 83 from down south and I think it was original, and only it's reputation was holding it together.
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1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2010, 01:15 PM
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Location: Cicero, Hamilton County, Indiana about 30 miles north of downtown Indianapolis
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Don't worry about those dirty looking nuts on that manifold connection. They are bronze, hard as nails and they always turn off. That is why they use bronze nuts.
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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
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  #4  
Old 12-04-2010, 01:25 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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I usually spray on some Kano-Kroil penetrating oil on rust manifold bolts. let is soak for a bit, then they usually come right off.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #5  
Old 12-04-2010, 01:32 PM
...much to learn...
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central VA
Posts: 44
What scares me about those manifold bolts.

Is that none of my wrenches seem to fit them perfectly, so I am scared of rounding them off.

If I could get those pipes apart, I have a new system from there back.

Maybe I need a hotter torch before I give up and go after the manifold bolts.
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1982 240D (4-speed)
1988 Volvo 240DL (5-speed wagon)
1999 Volvo V70
2002 Volvo XC70 (the grocery getter)
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  #6  
Old 12-04-2010, 01:42 PM
1985 190d
 
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Location: canadian border vermont
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Agree with JYDJ: Do the whole thing; otherwise you will be back under there again before you know it. The bronze nuts expand at a different rate from the steel studs so they come loose nicely. Dont forget to replace them with more bronze nuts.
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  #7  
Old 12-04-2010, 10:06 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: virginia
Posts: 496
Yes do the whole thing. I had the pipe break just behind the transmission on 95 going through Richmond, glad it did not pole vault me. The exhaust looked good, but had some rust at the joints, and it was one of the joints that failed.
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2010, 12:12 PM
...much to learn...
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Central VA
Posts: 44
Thanks for your help, here is how I solved the issue.

I used a cutting disk on my right angle grinder to open two slits along the outer, rear pipe. I took care not to damage the downpipe/frontpipe. The test of the system came right off and the replacement system is in. Thanks for your help.

FWIW, the bolts holding the pipe to the exhaust manifold did not really fit any of my wrenches, so here's to hoping that front pipe lasts for a while. If it does not, I am calling in the professionals.
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1982 240D (4-speed)
1988 Volvo 240DL (5-speed wagon)
1999 Volvo V70
2002 Volvo XC70 (the grocery getter)
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