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  #1  
Old 12-05-2010, 07:10 PM
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Is there a trick to starting the car again after a fuel filter change?

This is for the 190d. I changed the spin on fuel filter on a hot motor. Started the car (started fine) then it died. I have started it about 15 times already with no success. At this point the battery had drained. I will charge it overnight.

I even loosened the 19mm bolt on top of the filter and fuel oozed out (the filter has fuel in it).

It is about 30 degrees outside. I guess that has something to do with it.

Anyway, do you guys have any tips on how to start the car? Is it vapor lock in the lines? Can I just loosen the lines at the injectors?

Man, I miss the hand pump on the W123.

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  #2  
Old 12-05-2010, 07:12 PM
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yep.. loosen the injector lines at the injectors a few turns. Crank WOT until fuel comes out.

The car started on residual fuel in the pump and lines, previously, then whatever drips in after each start. It needs to be primed to effectively suck (if that makes sense?).


ps... forget that silly hand pump, that 190 must have something going for it?
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  #3  
Old 12-05-2010, 07:39 PM
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Did you fill the spin on filter with fuel before attaching it...
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  #4  
Old 12-05-2010, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
Did you fill the spin on filter with fuel before attaching it...

nope. i will from now on though
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2010, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
yep.. loosen the injector lines at the injectors a few turns. Crank WOT until fuel comes out.

what is WOT?

Anyway, is this a two man job? or can i just loosen all the lines then crank. or have someone crank while i loosen the lines...does it matter?
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2010, 07:58 PM
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WOT= Wide Open Throttle
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  #7  
Old 12-05-2010, 08:07 PM
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if you do a really good job filling like kartek said, you should not even need to open the lines.

...but it happens.

Not a 2 man job. Crack 'n crank... tighten 'n go.


...hopefully.
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2010, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benhogan View Post
This is for the 190d. I changed the spin on fuel filter on a hot motor. Started the car (started fine) then it died. I have started it about 15 times already with no success. At this point the battery had drained. I will charge it overnight.

I even loosened the 19mm bolt on top of the filter and fuel oozed out (the filter has fuel in it).

It is about 30 degrees outside. I guess that has something to do with it.

Anyway, do you guys have any tips on how to start the car? Is it vapor lock in the lines? Can I just loosen the lines at the injectors?

Man, I miss the hand pump on the W123.
Plug the block heater in, that will just make it easier overall. When is starts to fire floor it! Without filling the secondary filter you've screwed yourself somewhat as you've created a gfuel starved IP and allowed it to fill with air making it harder to self-bleed.

P. S. in the future do your filter changes after running and warming the engine up to temp, it just makes it easier. I usually get the engine warm, change the primary filter, restart the car let it run for a few minutes to pyurge any infiltrated air, then change the secondary filter ( replacing the old with a filled new filter, tighten everything up, and as soon as it fires, give it plenty of throttle, it will hiccup some as it works through any trapped air but will smooth out in a minute or two. And at this time of the year there is nothing better than working on a nice warm engine as opposed to a frozen block if iron!

And if you did a search before hand you would have found all of these pitfalls expounded upon and the methods to avoid this problem as well as prevented the wear and tear on your starter and battery!

Last edited by Billybob; 12-05-2010 at 08:47 PM.
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2010, 08:46 PM
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Fill the spin on filter with transmission fluid before you try to start it, makes it much easier. The car usually stalls on me at first but after the second start with light throttle it'll keep going. No need to floor it.
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  #10  
Old 12-06-2010, 02:36 AM
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I'd floor it anyway; I always do with mine. The idea is that the fuel delivery is at maximum and therefore you push air out faster as well.

I have always been successful using these owners-manual-approved instructions for my engines and have yet to have to open an injector line.

Engines with hand pump:
Change filters, refill new filter with fuel of some sort, hand pump until it's done all it's going to (you hear the valve bypassing), floor the accelerator and crank until it's running or until you fear for the life of the starter. Then keep it running at 1500 rpm or so until it smooths out.

Engines without primer pump:
Same as above, except there's no pump to push. These rely on self-bleeding of air, and the foot-on-the-floor is a relatively important step that is usually specified in the owner's manual. It may take up to 60 seconds of cranking (I would stop at 30 for the starter to cool IF the engine wasn't even "trying". If you hear it almost catching then don't let go of the thing until it's running) but it'll go eventually.
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  #11  
Old 12-06-2010, 09:10 AM
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I'd not fill the filter with ATF in the winter time. it's pretty thick.
diesel cleen or similar fuel additives are good, diesel etc.
but if you haven't gotten it started yet, lift the rear of the vehicle and let gravity push out the air from the filter.
after the rear is up in the air, loosen the outlet line from the filter
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2010, 10:00 PM
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Fuel filter tip - OM60x engines

Here's a tip for making sure the secondary fuel filter is toppin' full before you start the engine. It should apply to all OM60x engines. For OM61x engines, see the note in the last paragraph.

There have been many threads, including this one, on the problem of getting a Mercedes diesel engine started smoothly after changing the secondary fuel filter. Pre-filling the filter is the correct recommendation but it's hard to get it completely full and then install it on the engine without spilling any, in which case (a) you have a mess and (b) the filter is no longer full.

My technique is to part-fill the filter on the bench and let it sit for a minute or two to let the fuel soak into the filter medium and get the air bubbles out. You can use your favorite fuel system cleaner instead of diesel if you prefer.





Next, install the filter and screw in the mounting bolt finger tight. Since the filter is only partly full, it won't slop and make a mess. Now jam a wooden wedge under the filter (the picture shows my '96 E300D). This allows you to remove the center bolt but keeps the filter in position under the mounting hole and should be tight enough to prevent leaks. Now use the funnel and fill the filter completely full, then replace the mounting bolt and tighten it to spec.





With the filter completely full, the engine won't starve for fuel when you start it. This technique can be used in OM61x engines too but I don't think there's anything to jam the wedge against (I no longer have one to look at). Besides, the OM61x engines have a hand pump to fill the filter once you get it installed, right?

Jeremy
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  #13  
Old 12-12-2010, 10:47 PM
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Jeremy this is brilliant thanks, i hadnt thought of soaking all that paper to allow for a more full filter.You do change the orings on the bolt dont you?
My technique is to be downhill parked before i do it and to crank a really long time with WOT till it turns over but now will be looking forward to pre-filling my filter as Jeremy showed.
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  #14  
Old 12-12-2010, 11:13 PM
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Because I use biodiesel, I have changed all fuel system o-rings to Viton and do not change them with the filters. I'm not sure how long the Viton will last but a few years at least, I hope.
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Our all-Diesel family
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  #15  
Old 12-12-2010, 11:21 PM
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what i have done in the past when changing the filter is to have another person spray wd40 in the air cleaner box while I crank it. It usually starts ina about 5- 10 seconds.

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