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#16
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Everything I have seen says 80 ft-lb/110 Nm for wheel bolt torque on W126.
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#17
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I wonder about changing the bearing races if they appear to be OK. There is some risk in changing them. I had both outer bearing races spin and ruin the hub in a 69 Dart decades ago. A mechanic changed them while I watched, and he seemed to do it correctly. One failed 200 miles down the road, on a cross-country trip. 6 months ago, I replaced an outer bearing in one of my 300D's because the rollers showed pitting. The race appeared pristine so I left it in. So far no issues. The cone and race aren't actually "married". Indeed, they have different PN's and are usually bought separately. In a W123, they are a common pair that is often packaged as a set - Timken SET3 & SET5 or National AN3 & AN5.
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#18
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Step 32 retract caliper piston question. Just forcing the piston back pushes the old fluid, (perhaps contaminated) back into the MC. Is it wise or recommended to position the caliper bleed nipple to the highest point, crack it open and catch the fluid with a hose on the nipple while forcing the piston into the fully retracted position? Or it's that step only advised for ABS equipped cars?
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#19
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Quote:
...I haven't found anything that confirms my assumption yet. However in the FSM (chapter 40-110) it does have a warning about pneumatic guns and how they often tighten to 60 - 70 Nm with one blip. It is a bit daft of Mercedes to make a chapter about "Removing and mounting wheels" and then leave out torque specifications for wheel bolts...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#20
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Quote:
The old fluid in itself wouldn't likely hurt the MC (unless it had dirt in it) and it would be flushed back later anyway. But still, your procedure does sound a good one.
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#21
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No longer a virgin ...
I recently, for the first time ever did the pads on a W126. About the easiest pad swap ever. Pull pins, squeeze back (used the old pads in place, slid out a lil, with a channel locks against that flat spot on the cylinder - easy peasy) swap pads, Replace pins. Too much fluid in reservoir, suck out with baster, replace with new. No bleeding, no problems. Still some old fluid around, but an improvement none the less.
My original owners manual covers both steel and alloy rims, yet shows only one torque spec. |
#22
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Answer
Quote:
With knowledge and caution, it is a good idea, but remember to watch the master cylinder fluid level (Filling) as your HELPER pumps up the brake pedal. #39. Get in the car and pump up the brake pedal until firm. .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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