1984 300SD
Tried all the search methods and links. Found everything but the removal.
The 126 MB manual says the oil filter assembly has to be removed but I have heard somewhere that if the vacuum shut off unit on the rear and the damper is removed there is enough room to slide the IP back and out. of coarse the top oil pipe will be remover as well.
Has any tried this,
The IP problem is a frozen governor. The idle is all over the place.

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1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

I don't think you need to remove the whole oil filter assembly - meaning the whole container - you just need to take off the top of the oil filter housing so that the oil drains back into the sump. Otherwise you'll get all of that oil leaking out via the intermediate shaft area when you disconnect it. It was like that on my W123 OM617 - I don't think there is much of a difference for the W126

Other than that I think you need to remove the obvious pipes and lines - unbolt the IP assembly and withdraw it in a rearwards direction. It is often written that it is a surprisingly heavy item: I didn't find it too bad though. Just don't drop it and make a new problem!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks Army.
The engine is the same basically.
Is the intermediate shaft that which drives the IP

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1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

Yes the intermediate shaft goes from the timing device to the IP pump. It is a bit of a problem area for these engines as it tends to shuttle backwards and forwards (in a longitudinal direction - along the length of the car) and it then messes up vacuum pumps. When you take off the IP pump it is worth while checking / measuring this movement if you can. There is a limit for this movement - I think - in the FSM. I'll see if I can dig it out. I'm almost sure I found it the other day as I'm in the middle of writing an OM617 rebuild thread (as you may know)

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thank you soooo much for this info. I had no idea about this problem.
Is the shaft a splined collar that connects the two?

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1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

there is splined coupling that connects the shaft to the pump.

the pump and the timing device shaft have the same spline dimensions.

The end play may be in this thread.
New Vacuum Pump Ruined due to too much Timer Shaft End Play (the title from my notes).
second vacuum pump, help! on a trip-Toronto

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

There is much discussion about a bolt, what bolt?
Is there something holding the pump to the governor shaft besides the splined collar?

__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

Mostly the intermediate shaft gets "talked about" from the other side... from the side of the IP timing device. This is the side that has a bolt and a spacer (which is sometimes ground to make the longitudinal clearance correct) that needs to be undone to get the shaft out.

Now I'm not saying it is necessary to tackle things from this end - hopefully you won't need to mess about at this end. When you remove the pump you'll see the splined end of the intermediate shaft - All I'm saying is that it might be worth your while whilst the pump is off to check the end play of this shaft with a DTI (dial test indicator) / clock gauge if you have one. (Sorry I still haven't found that data - I was busy getting replacement valves yesterday)

This isn't necessarily necessary if you see what I mean - but I think it is a sensible check. I don't want to stress you out.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!