1992 Mercedes-Benz 300D 2.5 Possible buy? 1,500 Help - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

paridah · #1 12-16-2010, 08:34 AM

I was in the market for a E300 found one that has an issue when cold. Please chime in, and help me decide if it is worth the risk at 1,500 garage kept for 10 years looks like new all service records has 307K It starts every time without problem. You just have to let it warm up before driving down the road or it will be a rough ride. It is kept inside and I they do not use the engine block heater.

shertex · #2 12-16-2010, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paridah

I was in the market for a E300 found one that has an issue when cold. Please chime in, and help me decide if it is worth the risk at 1,500 garage kept for 10 years looks like new all service records has 307K It starts every time without problem. You just have to let it warm up before driving down the road or it will be a rough ride. It is kept inside and I they do not use the engine block heater.

Perhaps simply a bad glow plug?

In any event, it's hard to imagine you could go wrong for the price. Go for it!

paridah · #3 12-16-2010, 09:21 AM

All glow plugs have been changed in the last six months.

paridah · #4 12-16-2010, 09:22 AM

Here is a copy of the last email received.
It starts every time without problem. You just have to let it warm up before driving down the road or it will be a rough ride. It is kept inside and I do not use the engine block heater. If I actually used the block heater it would probably have no issues. I have all the Benz maintenance records through 200,000 miles serviced at dealer. The last 100,000 I serviced the car. Recent tranny and engine oil service. New tires within the last 10,000 miles. Glow plugs and fuel lines have been replaced within the last year or two can't remember exactly without looking a the records. K&N air filter since I've owned the car.

shertex · #5 12-16-2010, 10:13 AM

Assuming gp are good, I'll let other more knowledgeable forum members weigh in as to other causes of the problem. Regardless, though, still seems like a great deal from your description.

GregMN · #6 12-16-2010, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paridah

If I actually used the block heater it would probably have no issues..... Glow plugs and fuel lines have been replaced within the last year or two can't remember exactly without looking a the records. K&N air filter since I've owned the car.

"probably" ?? Then why doesn't he use it? He is hiding the real problem that he has not found yet with the recent repairs and planting the seed in your mind that it is no big deal.

K&N air filter for 200k miles is not a good thing. Those air filters let a LOT of dirt through and 200k is a LOT of miles to be letting a LOT of dirt into the cylinders.

Do a compression test before you buy it. Spend $40 at harbor freight for the compression tester and spend an hour to remove the fuel lines and injectors and do the test. If you are not mechanically skilled enough to do this test, you might want to pass on this project. You don't indicate how many MB diesels you have lived with. My bet is low compression and until it warms up and seals the cylinders it will run like crap and smoke like hell.

Skid Row Joe · #7 12-16-2010, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paridah

I was in the market for a E300 found one that has an issue when cold. Please chime in, and help me decide if it is worth the risk at 1,500 garage kept for 10 years looks like new all service records has 307K It starts every time without problem. You just have to let it warm up before driving down the road or it will be a rough ride. It is kept inside and I they do not use the engine block heater.

This is just me but for what you are describing, WITH RECORDS / GARAGED I would buy that car in about 2 seconds were I looking at it in person for $1,500. They are rarer than hens teeth, and a prize among MB diesels (to me anyway).

I would test drive it a loong time, listen to it, with the hood open a loong time and look around the engine 360* for any leaks. Look in the radiator overflow to confirm it isn't full of oil or transmission fluid and that it looks like coolant! I would check the transmission fluid color - then I would probably buy it before someone else snatches it.

From what you described, do not hesitate on this one, if I knew where it was I'd love to look it over myself!

tbomachines · #8 12-16-2010, 02:15 PM

Compression test the engine, the only way to truly know its health. The cold start problem could be anything from a bad GP relay to the oiling system.

paridah · #9 12-16-2010, 02:44 PM

She starts right up. Starting is not the issue. She is quite as a mouse as far a diesels go. I felt that compression may be an issue. Since my 93 Rod Bender's Transmission is acting up I need something to commute 100 miles per day. Low investment up front. I may save this one. for someone who has more time to deal with it. Here is another email from the seller. Considering he is from money town in my area he has nothing to hide. see last message below?

The car starts and idles/ runs great cold but when you start down the road she hesitates some and has difficulty sometimes shifting into fourth gear. I am unsure of the exact problem, my experience with diesels is that they don't like the cold that added with a 300,000 mile engine and you have the problem. Like I said there is a Engine core heater that I do not use which will probably help. Tranny wise when I changed the filter and replaced the fluid all looked good. No metal shavings no burnt fluid smell. I did have an issue with shifting probably about 50,000 miles ago and took it to the dealership. It was fixed with a $2.00 vacuum hose. I have replaced most of the vacuum hoses in the car but I may have missed a few. I do know when the car is warmed up it seems to run without a problem, shifts fine / engine runs great.

Skid Row Joe · #10 12-16-2010, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by paridah

She starts right up. Starting is not the issue. She is quite as a mouse as far a diesels go. I felt that compression may be an issue. Since my 93 Rod Bender's Transmission is acting up I need something to commute 100 miles per day. Low investment up front. I may save this one. for someone who has more time to deal with it. Here is another email from the seller. Considering he is from money town in my area he has nothing to hide. see last message below?

The car starts and idles/ runs great cold but when you start down the road she hesitates some and has difficulty sometimes shifting into fourth gear. I am unsure of the exact problem, my experience with diesels is that they don't like the cold that added with a 300,000 mile engine and you have the problem. Like I said there is a Engine core heater that I do not use which will probably help. Tranny wise when I changed the filter and replaced the fluid all looked good. No metal shavings no burnt fluid smell. I did have an issue with shifting probably about 50,000 miles ago and took it to the dealership. It was fixed with a $2.00 vacuum hose. I have replaced most of the vacuum hoses in the car but I may have missed a few. I do know when the car is warmed up it seems to run without a problem, shifts fine / engine runs great.

I would be driving that car by either sundown, or by Noon tomorrow (Friday). Especially if I owned the moneypit '93 SD.

I would love to see pictures if you buy it - a lot of pictures please! I love those '92s bigtime!

babymog · #11 12-16-2010, 02:59 PM

The problem could be serious, could be nothing, hard to say without driving it and experiencing the symptom.

As far as the price though, hard to find a diesel 124 that moves under its own power for $1500, if the body and interior are straight you can probably fix whatever else and be in good shape if you do the work yourself.

Check the condition of all suspension bushings, check for rust in the body / bottom of doors / rockers (pop out the jack-hole covers in the lower cladding), a car from MD has likely seen its share of salt and garaging a salt-road car is an extra nail in its coffin.

Skid Row Joe · #12 12-16-2010, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

The problem could be serious, could be nothing, hard to say without driving it and experiencing the symptom.

As far as the price though, hard to find a diesel 124 that moves under its own power for $1500, if the body and interior are straight you can probably fix whatever else and be in good shape if you do the work yourself.

Check the condition of all suspension bushings, check for rust in the body / bottom of doors / rockers (pop out the jack-hole covers in the lower cladding), a car from MD has likely seen its share of salt and garaging a salt-road car is an extra nail in its coffin.

Unless he actually sees and drives it in person, there's no way of knowing if any of the info is accurate.

My '99 300 ETD would be considered mint by some - I consider it a reliable, solidly maintained daily-driver with a complete history, numerous imperfections, and a non-giveaway price.

vstech · #13 12-16-2010, 04:16 PM

PULL THE CROSSOVER TUBE AND THE VALVE COVER AND LOOK THE CAM TIMING GEAR OVER REALLY WELL!
you could be ready to snap a timing chain.
you should have thick teeth between the rollers on the chain. if they are pointy, the chain is about to fail and destroy the motor.
point this out to the seller, and knock the price down accordingly as it's about 600.00 to replace the chain and all the gears.

Skid Row Joe · #14 12-16-2010, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

PULL THE CROSSOVER TUBE AND THE VALVE COVER AND LOOK THE CAM TIMING GEAR OVER REALLY WELL!
you could be ready to snap a timing chain.
you should have thick teeth between the rollers on the chain. if they are pointy, the chain is about to fail and destroy the motor.
point this out to the seller, and knock the price down accordingly as it's about 600.00 to replace the chain and all the gears.

Not to disagree, but I wouldn't permit anyone to tear down or dismantle any parts on my engine on a 18 yr. old car with 307K+ miles on it, just to pick it apart. That's ridiculous to think a seller wants to "play shop" with a car priced for a quick sale, garaged AND complete records.

If you cannot determine what to offer for a car by driving/listening to the engine without tearing down the engine, I suggest not even looking at a car priced according to what it is running or not.

I sure wouldn't tollerate some clown ready to tear my car's engine down. Who needs it!

Some jackass was balking on the $10K firm I had on my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8 loaded to the gills, with 17K garaged miles on it, in 2004. We had it at my mechanic on a lift, and the dumbazz guy got all freaked out over a slight oil pan gasket leak, then turned his attention to the brake pads, then claimed there must be SOMETHING wrong with the car to the mechanic/shop owner. Shop owner told the guy the most wrong was a $75 oil leak. We lowered it down off the lift, and the guy said he couldn't pay my asking/retail. I said see ya later. The jerk was driving a near new top-of-the-line Infinity. My mechanic asked me if the guy was buying it, when I said no, he asked how much I wanted for it? I said $10K, he said SOLD, he'd have the cash in the morning for it.

vstech · #15 12-16-2010, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe

Not to disagree, but I wouldn't permit anyone to tear down or dismantle any parts on my engine on a 18 yr. old car with 307K+ miles on it, just to pick it apart. That's ridiculous to think a seller wants to "play shop" with a car priced for a quick sale, garaged AND complete records.

If you cannot determine what to offer for a car by driving/listening to the engine without tearing down the engine, I suggest not even looking at a car priced according to what it is running or not.

I sure wouldn't tollerate some clown ready to tear my car's engine down. Who needs it!

Some jackass was balking on the $10K firm I had on my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8 loaded to the gills, with 17K garaged miles on it, in 2004. We had it at my mechanic on a lift, and the dumbazz guy got all freaked out over a slight oil pan gasket leak, then turned his attention to the brake pads, then claimed there must be SOMETHING wrong with the car to the mechanic/shop owner. Shop owner told the guy the most wrong was a $75 oil leak. We lowered it down off the lift, and the guy said he couldn't pay my asking/retail. I said see ya later. The jerk was driving a near new top-of-the-line Infinity. My mechanic asked me if the guy was buying it, when I said no, he asked how much I wanted for it? I said $10K, he said SOLD, he'd have the cash in the morning for it.

5 bolts and 3 cap screws is hardly tearing down!
I'm just recommending inspection of the documented failure known to occur in the 91-94 2.5t engines!
however, if the vehicle has 200K+ documented maintenance, perhaps the chain/gear has already been done...