Is this a good Ebay alternator for W123? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #31 12-28-2010, 10:42 PM

I'd not try lifting it 1" maybe 1/2" but I think it may damage the mm's

Fattyman · #32 12-29-2010, 02:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I am not talking jacking it very much. Maybe 1/2" to 1" high to give more clearance between the engine and frame so the alternator can go in more easily. I have not tried it, just an idea if I have to do the job again.

I installed another one of these yesterday in this order.
Put the alternator up through the bottom and attach bottom bolt.
Install the bracket to the alternator with the adjusting bolt.
Slip the belts on and tighten the adjuster to move the bracket towards the motor. ( The alternator body is bigger so you have to do this otherwise the alternator will hit the motor before you can get the bracket lined up to put the upper bolt through the motor.
Snug up the bolts and tighten the tensioner.
Finish tightening the bolts and you're done.
The only down side is that there is now less adjustment available for the tension bolt because of the larger body of the alternator.
If your belts are too short you cant get them on and if they're too long you will not be able to tension them.
Even with the right length belt you usually max out of tension adjustment.
I use a smaller pulley and clock the terminal studs to be on the opposite side of the mounting ears. See attached pics.

funola · #33 12-29-2010, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fattyman

I installed another one of these yesterday in this order.
Put the alternator up through the bottom and attach bottom bolt.
Install the bracket to the alternator with the adjusting bolt.
Slip the belts on and tighten the adjuster to move the bracket towards the motor. ( The alternator body is bigger so you have to do this otherwise the alternator will hit the motor before you can get the bracket lined up to put the upper bolt through the motor.
Snug up the bolts and tighten the tensioner.
Finish tightening the bolts and you're done.
The only down side is that there is now less adjustment available for the tension bolt because of the larger body of the alternator.
If your belts are too short you cant get them on and if they're too long you will not be able to tension them.
Even with the right length belt you usually max out of tension adjustment.
I use a smaller pulley and clock the terminal studs to be on the opposite side of the mounting ears. See attached pics.

Did you get yours from the same seller? On mine the locations of the various items on the back of the alternator is different. Maybe leaving the adj bracket off of the alternator is key to easily get it in from the bottom opening. I looked at mine again and it appears that jacking the engine up will not help and will actually decrease the bottom opening size. My pulley diameter is same as yours at 2 5/8" dia. and my belts are 10 x 1035 Continentals. The belts went on the pulley easily and I the belts tension are adjusted properly although it is near the bottom 20 % of the adjustment range. With belt stretch, I may run out of adjustments and may need to go to shorter belts.

Fattyman · #34 12-29-2010, 05:20 PM

I get mine through another supplier who just happens to be the former employer of your supplier! Yes, it's way easier to put the alternator up and in before you mount the bracket. You have the right belt and you'll be at the end of the tension adjustment when finalized. It should be fine. As long as your wires aren't stretched you should be OK. He could have clocked yours 90 degrees more to get the studs closer but if it works it works. I believe that your guy will be running out of cores soon! Don't ask me how I know

funola · #35 12-29-2010, 05:33 PM

My wires are stretched. I had to cut the sheathing over the bundle to give it more length. Your regulator has phillips head screws where mine has slotted. I will replace mine with socket heads which makes changing regulator much easier. I meant to do that before installing the alternator but I was in a rush. Also would have liked to look at the commutator to see how much copper there is. Do rebuilders always put on a new commutator and new brushes?

Fattyman · #36 12-29-2010, 06:06 PM

Based on the description of your guy from his former employer probably not

The brushes come with the regulators though so they should be new. Most would not swap the commutator unless it failed the growler test anyway unless the rings were clearly worn out.

funola · #37 01-05-2011, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fattyman

I get mine through another supplier who just happens to be the former employer of your supplier! Yes, it's way easier to put the alternator up and in before you mount the bracket. You have the right belt and you'll be at the end of the tension adjustment when finalized. It should be fine. As long as your wires aren't stretched you should be OK. He could have clocked yours 90 degrees more to get the studs closer but if it works it works. I believe that your guy will be running out of cores soon! Don't ask me how I know

The way my alternator is clocked, the regulator is at 9 o'clock and is much more accesible than the old 55 amp alterator, clocked at 3 o'clock which was a ***** to get the 2 regulator mount screws off because you can't see them and have to work by feel.

75Sv1 · #38 01-05-2011, 02:25 PM

I bought one of these a few years ago. I did have some problems. I did mount it and did the wiring. I put in new larger amp wires. I am thinking 4 amp. I think I kept the blue wire (sensor) the same. If I remeber right, the origianl belt is a 1024. I went with a 1030 or 1035. This is one a 240D. I didn't have to jack up the engine, or remove any brackets.
I did have problems with the holes where the bolts go through wearing. The alternator canted and was having problems with the belt slipping. I had the holes bored out and put in metal sleaves. Then I machined down the bosses and put some steel washers on both ends. It fit very snug. That has been just a few months or so.
Tom

vstech · #39 01-28-2011, 10:32 AM

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vstech · #40 01-28-2011, 10:37 AM

I just got myself an al115 from autozoo. lifetime warranty blah blah... not a bad price, and they took my shot bearing/wallered out 55amp alt as a core. I'll be working on this this weekend. I've got some #2Bass amp cable for the wire upgrade. this is going to be neat.

funola · #41 01-28-2011, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

I just got myself an al115 from autozoo. lifetime warranty blah blah... not a bad price, and they took my shot bearing/wallered out 55amp alt as a core. I'll be working on this this weekend. I've got some #2Bass amp cable for the wire upgrade. this is going to be neat.

How much is not a bad price? I don't think upgrading the wire to #2 is necessary, unless you want to do extra work. The stock wire is big enough IMO. If the alternator is charging at 120 amps, the bigger wire may make a tiny bit of difference, but it almost never charges at the max amperage. If you don't believe me, put an ammeter on it.

vstech · #42 01-28-2011, 11:20 AM

oh, I know it'll make little difference unless the battery is seriously discharged during starting, or a massive amount of accessories are added. I plan on installing a 4000watt inverter in the car.
don't ask...

colincoon · #43 03-19-2011, 06:02 PM

I think I'm going to order this one here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-SAAB-9000-900-ALTERNATOR-85-87-89-91-94-115AMP-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b8e1ff22QQitemZ170605543202QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

It's an AL129X as well, only it's 115A not 120A. The other alternator isn't available right now (but it might be so I might hold off).

My alternator bearing is making noises, so I guess it's time for an upgrade!

colincoon · #44 03-19-2011, 10:07 PM

Nevermind, I found the relisted 120A one and purchased it!

Mark DiSilvestro · #45 03-30-2011, 11:43 PM

Just went through this exercise after the 65 amp unit quit on my Euro '84 TD. Installed a used AL129X-type alternator provided by my friend Chuck Taylor.
Had to rotate the 'clock' position then same issues with pre-installing the adjuster as noted previousy. Also my TD is non-turbo, and manual heat-AC, so no problem installing the 'new' alternator from above.
I ran a 4-gauge "25 battery cable from the starter terminal direct to the alt. B+ lug. Fitted a cable clamp & grommet to one of the extended alternator case-screws, in order to support the original plug and connect the charge-lamp jumper, and in case I might someday wind up installing the smaller OE alternator.
This altenator is missing it's Bosch label, so I don't know the original rated output.
So far as my friend Chuck can recall, this alternator came off a Euro '84 380SEC parts-engine.
Does anyone here know what output alternator that
model came with?

Happy Motoring, Mark