Rounded off nut, suggestions? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

funola · #16 12-20-2010, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tankowner

The trick to vice grips is getting them on there nice and tight, which sometimes requires using another tool to squeeze the handles together - channel locks or something of that nature. But if you can get them on there tight enough they can do the job - then you have to undo them, but at least you have solved your first problem. Never tried the pipe wrench, sounds like a good one though.

The difference between a vise grip and a pipe wrench is the pipe wrench grips tighter as you apply torque. A vise gripe does not do that and wil and slip and round the bolt more if it is a real stubborn bolt. If there's room to get a pipe wrench in, that's the way to go.

Maki · #17 12-20-2010, 06:52 PM

These are really great: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?mv=rr

Set the tool up so it starts to bite into the bolt, and it grips tighter the harder you crank on it. Much better than a traditional Ezy-out.

There's also a version with a 7mm shank on each tool. I love 'em.

Maki · #18 12-20-2010, 06:57 PM

This is also a great tool for removing rounded-off nuts, a Vise Grips variation called the LW4: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=vise-grips+lw-4&psj=1&wrapid=tlif12928892725861&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=2067937867854063726&ei=w-wPTdXfDsqFnAep2tSpDg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CC4Q8wIwAg#

Cr from Texas · #19 12-20-2010, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by layback40

There is a heap of threads about "stuck nuts" maybe even the ones jt20 speaks of !!

The absolute worst I ever had to do was to cut one off (yea we do that to bull calves all the time jt) using a hacksaw blade in a pull type handle.
If you can get a hammer there, you may be able to drive a slightly smaller socket on to the nut.

Good Luck.

No additional ideas on the metal nut problem. But - I can tell you if the bull calf is very large, you need to know what you're doing and hold them really tight when using a very sharp knife. I doubt I could hold one down if you were using the hacksaw blade!

bigblockchev · #20 12-20-2010, 08:35 PM

Usually diamond bits come in sets of 20-30 different shapes they are quite cheap less than $10 for the whole set from Harbour freight or other retailer of cheap tools. Probably a smallish cylinder 1/8-1/16" in diameter would be best. Go in directly from the side rather than the top, don't use a lot of pressure. Stop frequently and blow the dust away so you can see what you are doing. I have used this on a broken drill bit stuck in a bolt in an aluminium head, the toughest ugliest situation you can encounter. Post a pic if you can so we can help further. Cheers Dan

babymog · #21 12-20-2010, 08:50 PM

Looks the same as the IRWIN sets sold at all of the parts stores, re-packaged as Craftsman.

They work so well, and it's nice to be able to use a ratchet w/ extension when you need to. I always start by tapping it down with a brass mallet to be sure it has a little grip to start its bite.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maki

These are really great: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?mv=rr

Set the tool up so it starts to bite into the bolt, and it grips tighter the harder you crank on it. Much better than a traditional Ezy-out.

There's also a version with a 7mm shank on each tool. I love 'em.

Maki · #22 12-20-2010, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

Looks the same as the IRWIN sets sold at all of the parts stores, re-packaged as Craftsman.

They work so well, and it's nice to be able to use a ratchet w/ extension when you need to. I always start by tapping it down with a brass mallet to be sure it has a little grip to start its bite.

I don't doubt that you're right -- I've been seeing a lot of Craftsman stuff that clearly has been repackaged (like their version of the Mytivac).

I had a project this summer working on a BMW 5hp30 automatic trans. The pan was held in place by about 25 round-head machine screws with T-27 Torx fittings. Naturally, about every other one stripped out. I used one of the bolt removers to loosen them. Just set it on the screw head, gave it a tap to start the bite, like you said, and turned. It never failed on the first try.

roundout · #23 12-22-2010, 10:30 AM

I can't picture the area you're trying to work on, but if you're skillful with a drill you might be able to hit the nut with a small (1/8" or less) bit and get it to release that way. Make sure you don't start drilling on the stud after you go through the nut. This has worked for me in a pinch. I would also recommend a Dremel if you have one, even though the cutoff wheels aren't too durable.

vstech · #24 12-22-2010, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

No additional ideas on the metal nut problem. But - I can tell you if the bull calf is very large, you need to know what you're doing and hold them really tight when using a very sharp knife. I doubt I could hold one down if you were using the hacksaw blade!

when I do this, I run them into the cage... lock them down, cut horns and sack... give em the shots and the pills dip em and open the door!

oh, and of course, hit em with the brand! +> sheridan 6S YEEEHAAAAWWW!

pixelsblack009 · #25 12-22-2010, 10:56 AM

Here's what I would do and its worked every time......
Get a file or angle grinder it doesn't matter how much the nut is rounded, then file or grind off both sides of the nut slightly so that if you look at the head of the nut from the top it looks like this a bit like this (=) then place a lock plier (set the tension really hard) put the plier on to the two sections of the nut you wore off..... that should hold and with some brute force you should be able to remove the nut easy as hell

Worked every time for me

babymog · #26 12-22-2010, 12:59 PM

Personally I stick with the IRWIN bolt extractor method for a couple of reasons:

I have had great success with this tool.

Any method of cutting or drilling the head leaves you with the difficult task of figuring out how to get the rest of the bolt out so that you can use a new bolt to re-assemble.

If the extractor doesn't work on this one, you've tried the easiest and neatest method first, and have a useful tool added to your box for about $15.00.

patbob · #27 12-22-2010, 01:30 PM

Ditch the liquid wrench. Go to NAPA and buy a can of (Aero)kroil.

I got defeated by a bolt rounding off in a yard just last weekend, so I feel for you.. and I need to find a solution that works too.

If I saw it right, you're in PDX too, PM me if you want help or to borrow some tools to try.

gastropodus · #28 01-08-2011, 10:17 PM

Well, I'm still trying to get this nut off... thanks to JT20 I learned that once you get the front bracket loose the air box is only held in by plastic posts into rubber grommets in the other bracket. So, I was able to get the air box out completely, and I took the grommets out of the rear bracket. Now I can heat that darn nut all I want without worrying about ruining any non-metal parts.

I gave it two shots with the MAP torch today, and added more penetrating oil. I guess I'm in this for the long haul... I'll keep going after it with the torch, the liquid wrench, and the nut extractor every couple of days. I tried using a chisel to drive it around, but I couldn't budge it.

If I really get desperate I could sacrifice the bracket; this would allow me to get some vise grips on it. I think that I'd better line up a replacement bracket first, however.

Kurt

Stretch · #29 01-09-2011, 03:08 AM

In addition to Maki's comments above, regarding the craftsman tools, I think it is worth saying that I've had great results with these:-

http://www.metrinch-tools.com/website/introductie.php?language=gb

pixelsblack009 · #30 01-09-2011, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gastropodus

Well, I'm still trying to get this nut off... thanks to JT20 I learned that once you get the front bracket loose the air box is only held in by plastic posts into rubber grommets in the other bracket. So, I was able to get the air box out completely, and I took the grommets out of the rear bracket. Now I can heat that darn nut all I want without worrying about ruining any non-metal parts.

I gave it two shots with the MAP torch today, and added more penetrating oil. I guess I'm in this for the long haul... I'll keep going after it with the torch, the liquid wrench, and the nut extractor every couple of days. I tried using a chisel to drive it around, but I couldn't budge it.

If I really get desperate I could sacrifice the bracket; this would allow me to get some vise grips on it. I think that I'd better line up a replacement bracket first, however.

Kurt

Just try this it works every time for me

get a good file and file off the edges of the nut in the same hexagon pattern if the nut is 13mm after all the edges have been filed drive a 12mm box socket on to the nut the attach your ratchet and remove it
it takes a bit of patience but it will come off