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#16
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Ok I've just seen "thedons" post..... so water is a completely no no,
what if I use some kerosene? what I'm saying is that it might be somewhere in between and it might get washed out and fall out from the bottom I guess I'd have to use some oil or something if kerosene is not good either
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1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car ) |
#17
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Quote:
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#18
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Think about it logically - I know this rarely helps but amuse me.
It is likely to be stuck in the following places:- 1) In a link in the timing chain 2) Down the side of the big timing chain tensioner rail 3) On top of the upper timing chain slide at the bottom of the engine 4) Close to / on top of the cog on the crank shaft 5) Stuck on some bit of the engine block casting Anyone for any more????
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#19
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I have another quick question..... what are the consequences of a worn timing chain breaking while the engine is running?
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1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car ) |
#20
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Valves will hit pistons. I have recently bought a new set of NON TURBO pistons and they cost about 400 euros - have a look through "buy parts" for valves! Put it another way the top of the piston protrudes above the top of the block by about 1mm - and the head is flat. There are special cavities in the top of the pistons to allow clearance for the pre-chambers that jut into the cylinder by about 8mm. The head gasket is only 2mm thick - need I go on? Small print:- All data given is specific for a second generation OM617 - so not your engine and not your generation of engine but it is close enough to make my point!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by Stretch; 12-21-2010 at 12:29 PM. Reason: small print |
#21
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Do you have access to air pressure. A long air tube affixed to an air hose might well give you the pressure with air to blow it out of a cavity. Most home diy'ers with even a small air compressor have a blowing tool of some type.
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Junqueyardjim Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis 1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA 2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage, Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it! |
#22
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Quote:
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1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car ) |
#23
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Any other advice on how I might find the part?
Thanks
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1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car ) |
#24
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Have you tried a magnet yet? Get a small round super magnet with a hole in it about 3/8" o.d.and fasten it to a piece of solid 14 gauge copper house wire and shove in in and out of the opening. You may get lucky.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#25
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I think the air pressure idea is a great idea. If you dont have an air compressor Id either buy or borrow one to try to blow out the key.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#26
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Quote:
I might have even more trouble if the magnet falls off and goes gets stuck in there anyway I guess its worth a try... I'll give that one a go in the morning
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1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car ) |
#27
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Quote:
that's why in my post I suggested a SHIELDED magnet. it's a magnet on a stick with an aluminum shield to keep it from sticking to everything.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#28
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Not if you use a stout piece of wire and secure it well to the hole in the magnet so the magnet can not come off! Make sure there's nothing sharp sticking out on the wire that can get hooked on anything. Putting a piece of heat shrink over it should help.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#29
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I suggest buying a new oil pan gasket, pulling the pan and inspecting/searching.
It is the most straightforward and simple way to get it done. |
#30
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Also, are you 100% certain it fell into the engine and not outside? Did you SEE it fall into the engine?
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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