Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 12-21-2010, 09:33 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Kandy, Srilanka.
Posts: 321
Ok I've just seen "thedons" post..... so water is a completely no no,

what if I use some kerosene?
what I'm saying is that it might be somewhere in between and it might get washed out and fall out from the bottom

I guess I'd have to use some oil or something if kerosene is not good either

__________________
1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car )
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-21-2010, 09:38 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelsblack009 View Post
yeah..... what if it had landed somewhere in between and not made itself all the way down so it wouldn't have been touching the oil which might explain why when we drained the oil it didn't come with it, but if I can hose it with something then it might come out from the bottom with the liquid
You would have to put so much fluid through the front of the engine you are more likely to be standing in pools and pools of it before you find it. So don't hose brush.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-21-2010, 09:42 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Think about it logically - I know this rarely helps but amuse me.

It is likely to be stuck in the following places:-

1) In a link in the timing chain
2) Down the side of the big timing chain tensioner rail
3) On top of the upper timing chain slide at the bottom of the engine
4) Close to / on top of the cog on the crank shaft
5) Stuck on some bit of the engine block casting


Anyone for any more????
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-21-2010, 10:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Kandy, Srilanka.
Posts: 321
I have another quick question..... what are the consequences of a worn timing chain breaking while the engine is running?
__________________
1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car )
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 12-21-2010, 12:28 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelsblack009 View Post
I have another quick question..... what are the consequences of a worn timing chain breaking while the engine is running?
These engines are not "safe engines"

Valves will hit pistons.

I have recently bought a new set of NON TURBO pistons and they cost about 400 euros - have a look through "buy parts" for valves!

Put it another way the top of the piston protrudes above the top of the block by about 1mm - and the head is flat. There are special cavities in the top of the pistons to allow clearance for the pre-chambers that jut into the cylinder by about 8mm. The head gasket is only 2mm thick - need I go on?

Small print:- All data given is specific for a second generation OM617 - so not your engine and not your generation of engine but it is close enough to make my point!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 12-21-2010 at 12:29 PM. Reason: small print
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 12-21-2010, 12:54 PM
junqueyardjim's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Cicero, Hamilton County, Indiana about 30 miles north of downtown Indianapolis
Posts: 2,623
Do you have access to air pressure. A long air tube affixed to an air hose might well give you the pressure with air to blow it out of a cavity. Most home diy'ers with even a small air compressor have a blowing tool of some type.
__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 12-21-2010, 02:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Kandy, Srilanka.
Posts: 321
Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
These engines are not "safe engines"

Valves will hit pistons.

I have recently bought a new set of NON TURBO pistons and they cost about 400 euros - have a look through "buy parts" for valves!

Put it another way the top of the piston protrudes above the top of the block by about 1mm - and the head is flat. There are special cavities in the top of the pistons to allow clearance for the pre-chambers that jut into the cylinder by about 8mm. The head gasket is only 2mm thick - need I go on?

Small print:- All data given is specific for a second generation OM617 - so not your engine and not your generation of engine but it is close enough to make my point!
So I guess what your saying then is that if the timing chain breaks then the pistons will hit the valves and it wont just be a case of replacing the broken timing chain with a new one?
__________________
1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car )
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 12-21-2010, 02:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Kandy, Srilanka.
Posts: 321
Any other advice on how I might find the part?
Thanks
__________________
1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car )
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 12-21-2010, 02:50 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Have you tried a magnet yet? Get a small round super magnet with a hole in it about 3/8" o.d.and fasten it to a piece of solid 14 gauge copper house wire and shove in in and out of the opening. You may get lucky.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 12-21-2010, 02:52 PM
dieseldan44's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Boston
Posts: 2,042
I think the air pressure idea is a great idea. If you dont have an air compressor Id either buy or borrow one to try to blow out the key.
__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 12-21-2010, 03:05 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Kandy, Srilanka.
Posts: 321
Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Have you tried a magnet yet? Get a small round super magnet with a hole in it about 3/8" o.d.and fasten it to a piece of solid 14 gauge copper house wire and shove in in and out of the opening. You may get lucky.
Wouldn't the magnet just keep getting stuck to the metal surface of the engine?
I might have even more trouble if the magnet falls off and goes gets stuck in there

anyway I guess its worth a try... I'll give that one a go in the morning
__________________
1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car )
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 12-21-2010, 04:09 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 26,843
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelsblack009 View Post
Wouldn't the magnet just keep getting stuck to the metal surface of the engine?
I might have even more trouble if the magnet falls off and goes gets stuck in there

anyway I guess its worth a try... I'll give that one a go in the morning
yes, a standard magnet would just keep getting stuck on all the chain/block/gears in there...
that's why in my post I suggested a SHIELDED magnet. it's a magnet on a stick with an aluminum shield to keep it from sticking to everything.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 12-21-2010, 06:04 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelsblack009 View Post
Wouldn't the magnet just keep getting stuck to the metal surface of the engine?
I might have even more trouble if the magnet falls off and goes gets stuck in there

anyway I guess its worth a try... I'll give that one a go in the morning
Not if you use a stout piece of wire and secure it well to the hole in the magnet so the magnet can not come off! Make sure there's nothing sharp sticking out on the wire that can get hooked on anything. Putting a piece of heat shrink over it should help.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 12-21-2010, 06:12 PM
TheDon's Avatar
Ghost of Diesels Past
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 13,285
I suggest buying a new oil pan gasket, pulling the pan and inspecting/searching.

It is the most straightforward and simple way to get it done.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 12-21-2010, 06:43 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Also, are you 100% certain it fell into the engine and not outside? Did you SEE it fall into the engine?

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page