You mean the sprockets?
geez I don't think I could get those here... I guess just the chain would have to do... at least the chain wont break and cause the valves to hit the pistons

PS: I don't think the sprockets are worn that bad... they do sit on the chain well and the teeth don't seem to be worn at all

__________________
1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car )

x2

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

My thoughts exactly. I never changed the chain on my on road bike. When finally had to (wore out the old crankset) the teeth on the chainring & sprockets looked like shark fins. New chain hopped on the cogs when I jumped on it, always a bad time - can send your nuts into the top tube if it doesn't put you over the handlebars.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Post some pictures of the camshaft sprocket - you'll get plenty of advice.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Chain / sprocket mismatch will give noise & vibration, and could break the chain or a tooth because of the vibration and because (I think) the drive load all goes to a single tooth.

A ways back, a guy from indonesia or philipines posted, a mechanic put the cam sprocket on backwards, so essentially a new sprocket was driven by an old chain. He reported something broken, probably w/ a loud bang.

If the tooth profiles are visibly asymmetric, you will probably have a mismatch between the crank sprocket, cam sprocket and TC.

I wouldn't be too surprised if flipping the sprockets over and replacing the TC at the same time worked because you'll have wear surfaces that have been practically unloaded for 30 years driving the new TC. That being said, I'd rather hear from a few people that it's worked for before trying it myself.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Well I've taken a good look at my cam sprocket and I must say it doesn't look anything like a shark fin (one side slightly rounded at the top) do you really think it could be still worn?

I get what you mean though by flipping it around, that makes sense

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1975 240D W115 version 3 (Australian car )

I don't think the cam sprocket will work if flipped, they are not concentric.
the mercedes shop manual states that if excessive wear is noted by out of spec stretch, the chain and ALL sprockets must be replaced. this means, crank, cam, IP, and oil pump drive if a turbo.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Hi, congrats on getting that key out!

As to rolling in a new chain, that is easy, but sprocket change would be a greater job. The lower sprocket would be the tough one. Are the teeth pointed on the upper sprocket?

On the oil filter, I hope you do change it. It is a mess to do, so have a big drain pan and lots of rags. I have a piece of sheet metal I jam between the filter canister and the motor/frame. This keeps oil off these places, and down into the drain pan. Loosen the filter bolt a few turns let the thing drain. It helps to push the canister up on the loosened bolt, to get all the oil out. Then undo the bolt and drop it all into the drain pan.

The canister should have two "filters" in it. They are pretty crude. The large filter should be replaced with the best you can buy, there are threads on this site addressing filter issues. The other item is really a screen. I've found them missing, or with tears. Make sure yours is ok. I'd put in a new one if there's any question about the one you've found. If it is ok, it should be cleaned, I use raw gas or diesel, then let it dry.

There's the large "O" ring on the canister and small copper washer at the bolt that should be changed. With a high quality filter, from Germany, these come in the box.

Don't forget to drain the oil cooler, when changing oil and filter.

The filter set up is pretty poor on these, and the oil should be changed often to lessen the soot in the engine.

Good luck,

Ron

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1971 220D, daily driver, new paint, 142K
1973 220D, low compression
1975 300D, back on the road! 166K
1971 220D, salvage, rear hit, engine excellent
1972 250, bad cam, but runs!
1971 230, engine stuck
1971 220D, low compression, rusty
1976 240D, salvage, engine excellent
1966 230SL, water in oil after rebuild