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  #16  
Old 12-24-2010, 12:14 PM
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When we first got the 85 ( In 97) I had a door that would pop, stick, grone or would be hard the move. removed the door check thinking I could libe her to work. Wrong. so replace it with a new one. it really puts a strain on the door jamb connection and can break/craks the metal eventually.

They were about $20 plus $ back then. now $35 - $40.

Now we have the 80 240, and several of the door checks were complaining. when I pulled the rear door one off, it was a totally different design. made of cast metal, with what looks like overlapping leaf springs.
The newer style fits right in place of the older style.

The olde style is listed on Fast Lane, $92. don`t think I will be buying any of those anytime soon.


this is the older style.


Charlie

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Last edited by charmalu; 12-24-2010 at 12:22 PM. Reason: post picture. typo.
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  #17  
Old 12-25-2010, 12:48 AM
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When I got my first 240D a few years ago, I needed a driver's door-check. I got a new one at my local indie MB parts-place for $23, but it turned out to be just a bit shorter than the original. Maybe some places stock one size now to fit both front and rear doors. Anyway, my driver's door now opens slightly less wide than the passenger door. Not a big deal to me but maybe a more important detail to some.

More recently, I needed three door-checks for my latest '82 240D, and found them at my local Pick-N-Pull in a couple W123s. They appeared to be relatively recent replacements (Yellow-plated steel instead of body-color paint) So for $3 each, I felt comfortable enough using them.
Otherwise, often the driver's door-check is the first one to wear out, and those at a recycler's are often found in similar shape. But it's common to find a relatively unworn check on the passenger side to use on the driver's door. Just be sure to get some fresh grease in them before installation.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #18  
Old 12-25-2010, 01:01 AM
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HA, this just happened on the LR on my 300SDL on its last voyage before being parked again as the head gasket finally gave up... great, just after I finally rebuilt the entire front end and purchased five new tyres for the machine.

Door became stuck open. Luckily it happened when I just arrived home.
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  #19  
Old 12-26-2010, 10:45 AM
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how about grease?

When I find a complaining door check, I grease it. It is easier if the door is already apart, but you can use a needle attachment on a grease gun, with door open to apply some grease. The check will not hold the door open quite as strongly as a new check with no grease, but it is happy. Or just spray something up in there, even WD-40 would give temporary relief. Ron
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  #20  
Old 01-07-2011, 02:05 PM
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My left rear check strap is not moving easily. I sprayed some WD 40 into the door which helped for a little while. What causes these to bind? Can they be cleaned and lubricated or do they just wear out? A new one is about $20.
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  #21  
Old 01-07-2011, 02:40 PM
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So what are the signs of door checks failing?

Is there an old/new style? I haven't had any issues closing the doors on my car. Most of the time people either excessively slam the door or don't have enough pull to properly latch it.

I say the trick is to pull it enough to comfortably "clunk" the door shut and that seems to do the trick.
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  #22  
Old 01-07-2011, 03:31 PM
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if the door is difficult to open. or it pops when it's opening or it moves without any resistance, the door checks are bad.
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  #23  
Old 01-07-2011, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
if the door is difficult to open. or it pops when it's opening or it moves without any resistance, the door checks are bad.
The door check may not always be bad if you hear a loud pop. The pop can be due to a crack on the mounting plate (not part of the door check) inside the car frame which you can not see. The sound is generated by "finger snapping action" of the door strap spring as you open /close the door.
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  #24  
Old 01-07-2011, 06:08 PM
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I have no popping sounds, just metal dragging across metal and more effort to open or close the door.
So, can the part be cleaned and lubricated or is it a throw away?
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One eye on the road, the other on the temp. gauge

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1983 380 SEL Long gone
1983 300SD Wish I hadn't traded it in on a 90' Corvette
1989 300SE My all time favorite
1995 E420 Went like a bullet
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  #25  
Old 01-07-2011, 07:52 PM
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These door-checks are usually a box-section steel channel with dimples in the tracks to catch a pair of large spring-loaded ball-bearings attached to the inner-end of the strap. Often the steel channel will split and spread. Or the cylinder that holds the heavy spring and ball-bearingss will break. Usually at this point they won't hold the doors open and need replacement. If yours are still undamaged, and just noisy and dragging, you may be able to re-grease them.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #26  
Old 01-07-2011, 09:32 PM
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mine got loud and was popping. I recalled reading that would get stuck. I ordered a MB replacement and painted the strap to match the paint. Looks like new.

Good advice to change it out when it first starts to fail.

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